I thought as much.
The B+ an B+P terminals are located on the crossover board.
So, you have a choice of whether or not the positecs on the board are in circuit to the drivers.
The B+ an B+P terminals are located on the crossover board.
So, you have a choice of whether or not the positecs on the board are in circuit to the drivers.
Last edited:
Yeah this was a really easy fix, no shorting, no modifications of any kind required. I'm wondering now, would there be any point in replacing these crossover caps? I feel like I need to do SOMETHING after stuffing around with them. If there was some improvment available I would happily do it.
Yeah this was a really easy fix, no shorting, no modifications of any kind required. I'm wondering now, would there be any point in replacing these crossover caps? I feel like I need to do SOMETHING after stuffing around with them. If there was some improvment available I would happily do it.
Maybe the two smaller electrolytic caps is worth to replace with poly caps. It is likely that the sound will change slightly or maybe more, if the elcos have drifted values already.
It is possible that you need a compensation of electrolytic caps higher ESR when replacing with poly caps, but not necessarily.
How old are these speakers? Is there a manufacturer's name on the electrolytic caps?
I bought them new in '99. I don't see anything other than specifications, apparently they're something generic.
Maybe the two smaller electrolytic caps is worth to replace with poly caps. It is likely that the sound will change slightly or maybe more, if the elcos have drifted values already.
It is possible that you need a compensation of electrolytic caps higher ESR when replacing with poly caps, but not necessarily.
Any suggestions how much? 🙂
Replacing the generic electrolytics may be worthwhile. To avoid the possible complications introduced by substituting polypropylene caps (reduced series resistance and its influence on the crossover characteristics) the simplest approach is to go for better quality, branded electrolytics such as Mundorf Ecap bipolars.
1 pair (2pcs) of Mundorf ECap Bipolar PLAIN Capacitors 5% 50/70V (all values) | eBay
1 pair (2pcs) of Mundorf ECap Bipolar PLAIN Capacitors 5% 50/70V (all values) | eBay
In my opinion, it's worth the experience to just simply replace the electrolytics to poly. Not for a big buck poly but for a cheap one first.
In worst case, you may not like the sound, but then you can compensate the lower esr (e.g. adding 0,2-1 Ohm typically).
But if you have some luck, the additional resistance may not needed and you are happy with the closer to ideal capacitors in your xover!
In worst case, you may not like the sound, but then you can compensate the lower esr (e.g. adding 0,2-1 Ohm typically).
But if you have some luck, the additional resistance may not needed and you are happy with the closer to ideal capacitors in your xover!
Last edited:
I went with Jantzen Z-Standards...I was looking for Z-Silver until I saw the price, after all, I am not a fanatic just yet. While I was looking, I checked around for a 300uF and didn't find anything audio dedicated, buncha start caps and some flash caps. Some other guy was selling NOS Rubycon's dated 1984 that looked like they might work, but as I understand it, electrolytics have a shelf life. Or does that only apply when they're in use?
Not sure why the 300uF appears to be un-replaceable, at least with audio grade parts.
Not sure why the 300uF appears to be un-replaceable, at least with audio grade parts.
Just to stay with Jantzen Audio parts:
Electrolytic Cap - Jantzen-audio.com
I am sure you can find this value from other brands like Mundorf or Intertechnik Audyn etc.
Even Jantzen Cross-Cap poly has 300uF value cap, but it's huge.
Electrolytic caps can degrade over time when not in use too.
Electrolytic Cap - Jantzen-audio.com
I am sure you can find this value from other brands like Mundorf or Intertechnik Audyn etc.
Even Jantzen Cross-Cap poly has 300uF value cap, but it's huge.
Electrolytic caps can degrade over time when not in use too.
Last edited:
There is plenty of audio grade capacitor brands, and one of them is Visaton that proved to be spot on in respect to low ESR and specified capacitance. I am talking about larger values non polarized electrolytics.
I checked both US suppliers listed by Jantzen, neither of them have the 300uF. Same for both suppliers listed by Visaton, perhaps it's different in the EU...
This is the best I have come up with so far TVA1350 Vishay / Sprague | Mouser
I've emailed jantzen, maybe they can offer some assistance.
This is the best I have come up with so far TVA1350 Vishay / Sprague | Mouser
I've emailed jantzen, maybe they can offer some assistance.
Last edited:
That TVA1350 appears to be a polarised electrolytic - no good for crossovers.
Consider this non polarised one from Part Express:
Speaker Accessories; Audio & Video Accessories; Accessories & Supplies; Electronics
Consider this non polarised one from Part Express:
Speaker Accessories; Audio & Video Accessories; Accessories & Supplies; Electronics
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- JPW Attenuation