John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part III

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But does it improve the sound ...

I think I can hear echoes from the light bouncing back and forth and not being terminated correctly... a sort of photonic standing wave effect if you will....NOT. Thank you Walter Schottky!

Seriously, this is to couple TV HDMI, so, um, no difference I can discern between a copper HDMI cable and the optical HDMI link. As a matter of fact it sounds $250 worse to my wallet.

Howie
 
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I had a lightning event which started at my TV, followed both HDMI and ethernet cables into my house networks and wiped out a metric $#!tton of stuff. My TV is now isolated via both optical HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/AV-Access-Fiber-Extender-4K60Hz/dp/B073QLRJDR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fiber+hdmi+extender&qid=1570309994&sr=8-3
and optical Ethernet:
Fiber to Ethernet Media Converter | FS Fiberstore

I rest a tiny bit easier...

Howie

Did the coax go through any suppressors etc. before the TV? We tried to get every external cable connected to the surge box so all the stuff would follow as a unit. Even with a ground at the building entrance a direct hit will still cause a lot of distress. Here is a number to put it into perspective- a class 3 location (inside the building) can expect as much as 3000A in a surge. If the ground resistance at the bond is 1 Ohm (pretty good actually) that means 3KV between ground and that coax. Not much can survive that.

The current outside the building is 15KA. At these currents and rise times in the 10s of uS that wire now has a lot of inductance (and PC traces are quite an issue to work with too for surge suppressors).

Even being near a hit (up the street for example) you will get a lot inside the house. A whole house suppressor is a nice start but there are other paths into the building- TV cable, phone lines etc. (Don't hold a pots connected phone in your hand during a close lightning storm, it can be fatal.) The typical outlet will flash over around 600V but that's little consolation to your switching supply. . .
 
Did the coax go through any suppressors etc. before the TV?...

I am a broadcast engineer and radio amateur, so you can be sure the TV mast had an 8' ground rod and commercial F-connector gas tube arrestor.

Unfortunately (and this is what caused the most damage) he TV antenna location is 50' away from the power entrance where everything else in the house is grounded, so the instantaneous differential was likely tens of thousands of volts.

The really bizarre thing is the TV antenna was at or below the peak of the house it is next to, and only 20' tall below 90' tall trees above it...but as we know lightning has a much better grasp of potential differences than our planning does.

Cheers,
Howie

RIP Ginger Baker, one of my very favorite polyrythmic drummers...aye we're falling left and right these days... :sigh:

Enjoy art for art's sake while you are still around to do so, folks...
Howie
 
And that is why we told people to run the coax through the surge protector at the TV. The gas tube in that link is secondary to getting them all tied together close to each other.

I would agree that in addition to the arrestor at the ground rod at the bottom of the TV mast running the cable through the arrestor in the HTPS7000 is a good idea...that is what I had done. The lightning event took out the HTPS7000 as well as the TV. It is beneficial to run as many grounding points to minimize ground bounce in a lightning event. If I had four rods with arrestors on the RG-6 feedline separated by 16' each before it entered the house the surge would have been much attenuated.

When wiring antennas in a broadcast site, a multiplicity of grounds are sunk, including buried copper strap connecting them. At the transmitter site for one of my stations I counted over 100 8' rods sunk bonded with all of the steelwork and ice-bridge foundations.

As it is I have eight 8' ground rods sunk and bonded to the two code-mandated ones at the power entry using #4 solid. Ideally I would run the RG-6 from the TV antenna over to that point and bond the arrestor to my ground system there. That would give me minimum differential between the feedline and house wiring systems in an event. Unfortunately RG-6 has >10 dB attenuation at 850 MHz in the extra 100' run to get there and back which is why I initially did not do it. I am quite rural and UHF DTV signal strength is a problem despite having a go to he!! antenna and preamplifier which was blasted to bits.

I may yet run the feedline to the main entrance...
Howie
 
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I did used to say the two biggest differences between USA and UK were
1. The weather isn't out to kill you in UK
2. The wildlife isn't out to kill you either as we killed it all first.

When we first started shipping Europe tested cellular kit to florida we discovered the lightning protection was not up to scratch. Obvious looking back on it now...
 
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OK Anaphylaxis aside we wiped out all the critters that would likely eat you, bears, wolves etc. Red deer can ruin your day, but not as terminally as a Moose.

B52 grade hornets are making it into UK now though. Those I do not like the look of.

And in other news, google have either changed their search setup or some parameter has got mangled as there are now 3 pages of adverts before the first useful link. I don't want 30 links to ended ebay auctions... Time to try another search engine
 
The way things are stated here on this thread, these days, one would think that quality audio design is 'dead' and everything that matters is now taken into account. Yet, I am daily challenged by my associates to make better and better circuits, many with new features, like balanced out vs single ended, higher power, etc.

I can't really 'improve' digital circuits, but I can rely on Markw4 and others, who know more than me about the subject to keep me up-to-date.

When it comes to analog circuits, there is still plenty to do, much of which is improving connectors, especially internal ones in audio products, better circuit board materials, better soldering, etc. We are not just looking at reliability, but sonic quality. So, we tend to make designs with a minimum number of internal connectors, because 'good' connectors are so very expensive. Working with Parasound for so many years, I have often overlooked the problem of internal connectors, and I know that it can make a difference. And this was a fundamental premise 30 years ago when I was more idealistic.

For example, I was once asked by my Japanese importer to add a disconnecting power supply connector, to separate the external power supplies when used, an especially useful device for shipping and moving a Vendetta SCP-2 phono stage. When I priced it out, it was just too expensive to add. Fischer or Lemo connectors cost just too much, and the alternative was 'trash' by comparison, so we never added it. Today, after 30 years, I am glad that I made that decision. Real quality is controlled by such decisions, rather than convenience or price. Serious DIYers could do well by 'improving' existing products, including Parasound, with internal upgrades, or at least Deoxiting or the equivalent, connectors, putting add-on heatsinks on stressed parts, etc. That is a real design 'secret' in using less 'crap' including cheap transistors in series with the audio path, and keeping the through-path to a minimum. Even today I work hard to make my best designs with that principle in mind.
 
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