Hi SY, and what do you think? SN62 for you, and SN60 for everybody else? Of course SN60 can be used, but why, when alternatives are available, that do a better job, and allow less tendency for cold joints?
I'll have to do more research, but you wouldn't believe the answer anyways.
My recent experience with USB sound cards has been very disappointing. We use them in the field kit for tuning sound systems.
This past week we have the system set up in the back and are comparing all of the microphones, preamps, wireless links and sound cards. My reference is a pistonphone calibrated ACO Pacific 1/2" capsule.
As to the issue of fixed dither patterns and noise reduction, I suspect you understand a longer sequence length improves things. I still have non digital noise sources.
Some of my measurements really do take hours, but fortunately they are consistent and repeatable.
I haven't had a problem with cold joints, and didn't 50 years ago, either. My personal opinion, as I said, was agnostic- any half-skilled monkey can get good solder joints out of 60/40, 63/37, or 2% silver for diy audio construction. I've used them all successfully, and, again, use the 2% Ag now because of appearance. My biggest upgrade was a better soldering iron, courtesy of my fabulous wife.
What are you talking about??? Get back to me when you have something valid to say, this garbage you just posted is just a diversionary attempt.
Silly.
You scrape leads with a knife because you do not understand the technology.
I design equipment connections, design processes, specify materials and test criteria, develop fixturing and actually build hardware myself in addition to teaching technicians with 25 to 40 years soldering experience new techniques.
You scrape leads with a knife because you do not understand the technology.
I've used tons of solder both on and off eutectic in leaded and lead free, in every soldering process imagineable. Yes, tons defined as 2000 lbs.
You scrape leads with a knife because you do not understand the technology.
My expertise is requested in some high falutin places when what is written is insufficient. They wouldn't pay plane fare and hotel for a week if all they had to do was get Manko's book.
You scrape leads with a knife because you do not understand the technology.
You see a consistent pattern here?
Be nice.
Anecdotal accounts are interesting..so is hard data.
I believe we all agree with that.
I'm not following the context of that sentence.
I always seem to use sponges for hand soldering. Only because it's there.
jn
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A couple of questions and opinions here. I have a Weller soldering station and was wondering for small components, trannies, small resistors, diodes, does somebody have a recommendation for tip size, a model number for the tip. I caught the comment about tip mass and have been using a very fine tip and now question that thinking. the other question is about liquid flux. Any recommendations on a good liquid flux to be used with 63/37 solder such as Ersin type?
Thanks in advance for the answers and opinions.
Thanks in advance for the answers and opinions.
Jacco,
I'll let the French put whatever they want to up their pipes!
John,
I'd have a hard time with telling someone who is advising CERN about how to solve their solder connection problems that they are ignoring common myths and wives tales. I surely wouldn't discount JN or SW when it comes to this subject.
I'll let the French put whatever they want to up their pipes!
John,
I'd have a hard time with telling someone who is advising CERN about how to solve their solder connection problems that they are ignoring common myths and wives tales. I surely wouldn't discount JN or SW when it comes to this subject.
The tip mass becomes more important when the part is hard to heat. Most will just turn the temp up to compensate, which makes temperature overshoot easier. For small parts, you really can't go that big on the tip.
As long as the user understands the issue of mass vs set temp and flux capabilities, they can figure out how best to proceed.
I've used flux from the Superior Flux Company, and many many pounds of paste and liquid flux from W. M. Dunton of Rhode Island. I recall they were bought out many years ago, so don't know who owns them now. Superior looks up and running.
About Superior Flux & Mfg. Co.
I note they have fluxes for aluminum to alum, alum to copper, and such. I recall you asking about that.
IIRC, they also have neutralizer solution.
I'd give an alcohol based R type a try, maybe an RMA type as well. I noticed the site is pretty extensive, but didn't peruse it much.
If you do try either the liquid or aluminum flux, please keep us abreast of your trials and progress.
I've used stainless flux for soldering to stainless, Inconel, and nichrome, easy once you get the hang of it.
Thanks,
John
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Thanks JN. I think that was fas42 who had the question about the aluminum on aluminum soldering. I don't think I have ever personally used any aluminum wire for anything. I think of aluminum and aluminum only as far as welding goes and then it is TIG welding or nothing. Mostly I deal with steel structures when I am building something and then I just break out my MIG welder. Still have the same gas torches I have had for the last 40 years for brazing.
Oh, sorry. I thought you were the one with the copper clad aluminum voice coil wire.
The heatsink question, maybe that was him..
Ah, a point. The superior site says RMA fluxes do not have halides. This is consistent with something somebody else posted here that I disagreed with.
So I went back and looked at the MSDS for my M W Dunton Nokorode RMA solder paste. Sure enough, they call out aluminum chloride and zinc chloride in the MSDS.
But I suspect nowadays with all this ROHS stuff, manu's may be eliminating the halides entirely from RMA fluxes, using some other activators. The superior site has some good content on that, the electronic flux page even recommends different fluxes based on the solder alloy and base metal. Very nice and really informative..
ps. M W Dunton had a really cool page in their booklet that is a matrix which details the easiest to hardest metals to solder to, and on the other axis the activities of their fluxes.. they put a X for best choice given exceptionally clean surfaces, an N for normal soldering conditions, an A for alternate, and no mark which means don't go there. I never knew platinum was the easiest to solder to..go figure. Course, aluminum is the listed as hardest.. Titanium and Beyllium are labeled as not solderable...I'll take their word on that..
pps. The Dunton booklet also states within to use the LEAST aggressive flux that will do the job. That I certainly agree with.
jn
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JN,
Yes you were right about the copper clad aluminum wire, that was me. I was just thinking of pure aluminum wire to aluminum wire. That I don't want to do. I have been warned of the problems of trying to attach a copper wire to an aluminum wire, seems that is a fracture situation waiting to happen, hence the copper cladding on the wire for attachment purposes. I assume we would have to start to talk about the skin effects with copper clad aluminum but that would be over my head.
Yes you were right about the copper clad aluminum wire, that was me. I was just thinking of pure aluminum wire to aluminum wire. That I don't want to do. I have been warned of the problems of trying to attach a copper wire to an aluminum wire, seems that is a fracture situation waiting to happen, hence the copper cladding on the wire for attachment purposes. I assume we would have to start to talk about the skin effects with copper clad aluminum but that would be over my head.
First, JN, I do NOT use a knife to scrape my leads. I use needle-nose pliers with little or no serration on the working surfaces. Please keep your criticisms straight.
More later.
More later.
OK, what have I tried over the years to clean (old)leads usually from surplus resistors and capacitors?
I have used, in order of history:
steel wool, specialty lead cleaners made from copper shielding, emery paper, scotchbrite, TriCloro, Caig, brass brushes, fibreglass brushes, and probably more than I can now remember.
I found that for cleaning a few resistors, without damage, using a pair of SELECTED needle-nose pliers to thoroughly clean the surface and leave a bright finish, with a minimum surface area, was preferred. All my personally built products are made this way, plus a few other 'tricks and tips' that I would like to covey, when given a chance.
What is the problem?
Of course, out in the field, having only a Swiss army knife with me, I might use it to scrape a lead.
I have used, in order of history:
steel wool, specialty lead cleaners made from copper shielding, emery paper, scotchbrite, TriCloro, Caig, brass brushes, fibreglass brushes, and probably more than I can now remember.
I found that for cleaning a few resistors, without damage, using a pair of SELECTED needle-nose pliers to thoroughly clean the surface and leave a bright finish, with a minimum surface area, was preferred. All my personally built products are made this way, plus a few other 'tricks and tips' that I would like to covey, when given a chance.
What is the problem?
Of course, out in the field, having only a Swiss army knife with me, I might use it to scrape a lead.
I don't care if you use a chain saw or backhoe to scrape the leads. At best, you are just making it look shiny for the sake of making it look shiny. At worst, you are removing the solderable surface and leaving a shiny, passivated, non solderable surface for some poor technician to contend with.
Nonetheless, your advice for cleaning the leads is certainly not one that should be recommended. That kind of advice coming from a noted designer, as you said, ""does little for your credibility.""
So not only work the surface, but grind in any surface impurities in lieu of actually cleaning.
If it's a shiny surface you want, just chuck the body of a resistor into a portable drill, and use a 2000 or 4000 grit nail file. Heck, buy some 12000 grit from Klingspor, that'll make a shine that is really good.
BTW, that is exactly what I do for antique clock gear pinions.. There, the flatness and surface finish is very important.
The problem? Why, you of course.
Just because your a good circuit designer doesn't mean you know diddly about soldering, metallurgy, fluxes, or soldering processes.
To try to use your "name" in support of extremely poor methodology, then attack others who do indeed "write the book", that's the problem.
jn
Sounds more like you're just "polishing" the leads (burnishing would probably be a more appropriate term) rather than removing surface contaminants.
se
As long as you learn something, laughing is fine. JohnE always cracks me up, but I've learned a ton from him and I greatly appreciate it.
Sorry, I'm learning from Kirkwood Rough at the moment, how he cleans his leads. WHOLE
NEW APPROACH!
NEW APPROACH!
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