That's only for 1/2 of the output drive. Does the other half look the same?
When the outputs were heating up, were all of them heating up or were only half of the FETs heating?
Just for the record, if you simply pulse the remote on for a second and then remove it, does the drive circuit function for 10-15 seconds after remote is removed?
When the outputs were heating up, were all of them heating up or were only half of the FETs heating?
Just for the record, if you simply pulse the remote on for a second and then remove it, does the drive circuit function for 10-15 seconds after remote is removed?
All mosfets have the same signal. If i apply remote, and remove it directly, the amplitude smoothly going down iin 2 seconds, but the amp still draw 0,4amps for about 10 seconds..
With the heating i will test now.. Bridge between pin 1 and 2 still inside
With the heating i will test now.. Bridge between pin 1 and 2 still inside
Some amps have a problem with that jumper in place with the rail voltage applied. Be careful or remove the jumper.
What's the rail voltage in this amp?
If you clamp the FETs to the heatsink, do they cause the heatsink to heat up significantly?
Are you using the IRF3415s?
If you clamp the FETs to the heatsink, do they cause the heatsink to heat up significantly?
Are you using the IRF3415s?
The amp plays clean audio, and it seems, not heating up us much... Ok, this amps new for me.. High idle current, mosfet heats up... The standard class d, never draw so much idle current, and mostly, the mosfets stay cold during test... I will test this amp for a while.. Thanks Perry
If you're satisfied, OK.
In the future, the IRF540 could be used to see if the current draw was less. The IRF3710Z may also be an option.
In the future, the IRF540 could be used to see if the current draw was less. The IRF3710Z may also be an option.