Here are the Pictures.
Rail builds Up,mute Switch Off,DCO Starts raising Up to 4V.
DCO goes slowly down again .
Remove remote, DCO Spikes Up again,and a microsecond later,mute switches on.
Amp powers Off completly.
Thats the Problem.
Rail builds Up,mute Switch Off,DCO Starts raising Up to 4V.
DCO goes slowly down again .
Remove remote, DCO Spikes Up again,and a microsecond later,mute switches on.
Amp powers Off completly.
Thats the Problem.
Attachments
If you connect a 4.7k resistor and a 1N4148 diode in series and connect the striped end of the diode to the remote turn-on terminal and the resistor to the base of the transistor that's connected to R187. Does that switch the SD terminal quickly enough to stop the turn-off noise?
Does the amp pop with the 4v DCO?
Does the amp pop with the 4v DCO?
4.7k connected to the anode of the diode, cathode to base of Transistor connected to R187, is this correct?
I dont have a pop during power up, but you can see at a connected subwoofer, how the 4v DCO ist build up and going to 0 again.
I dont have a pop during power up, but you can see at a connected subwoofer, how the 4v DCO ist build up and going to 0 again.
I want the base of the transistor to be pulled down when remote voltage is removed.
Does the woofer push out or pull in with the 4v of offset?
Does the woofer push out or pull in with the 4v of offset?
Installed the mod. Now i have two Pops. If i remove remote, a little pop, and a second pop short after.
If i start up the amp, the Subw is slowly moving upwards, until DCO 4V, than slowly goes back to 0. As before.
If i start up the amp, the Subw is slowly moving upwards, until DCO 4V, than slowly goes back to 0. As before.
If you instead ground the diode before removing the remote voltage does that stop the turn-off noise?
If i connect the diode to ground, the subwoofer pulls down. DCO -8V. So, a Pop, but other direction.
If i remove the Remote, and connect the diode to ground, it does the same.
Because the amp needs a moment to completly shut down. Normal idle current 1.4 Amps, remove remote, current is 0.8Amps for about 8 seconds.
If i remove the Remote, and connect the diode to ground, it does the same.
Because the amp needs a moment to completly shut down. Normal idle current 1.4 Amps, remove remote, current is 0.8Amps for about 8 seconds.
OK. The diode and resistor shouldn't do that. I'll have to look through the information I have to see if I can better understand the mute circuit.
What could cause this DCO? Maybe the IR2010 are not Ok, or Mosfets out of tolerrance?
Could i check it, if i remove the preamp board, and force the both IR2010 to work, if i ground the SD?
Could i check it, if i remove the preamp board, and force the both IR2010 to work, if i ground the SD?
I'd expect an op-amp with excessive DC offset and the DC is being blocked by a coupling capacitor. The change from 4v is the time it takes for the capacitor to charge.
Does the subsonic filter make a difference?
Aren't the 2010s working without the preamp board?
Does the subsonic filter make a difference?
Aren't the 2010s working without the preamp board?
The Subsonic doesnt make any difference.
The IR2010 are working without the preamp board, but muted. I have a squarewave Input at both ir. Also Oscilation at the mosfets is present
The IR2010 are working without the preamp board, but muted. I have a squarewave Input at both ir. Also Oscilation at the mosfets is present
That's why I suspected the op-amps on the preamp board. Is getting the parts to make jumpers not an option?
Ready to continue. Removed one OP amp, because of overheating. But IT wasnt the Problem with the DC Offset.
