Got 1 of theese in for repair. Its missing some parts. Wondering if someone knows what parts go in the following locations and have any part numbers?
D81:
D810:
D809:
D808:
C831:
C829:
C827:
C832:
C830:
C828:
Then between the caps there are Resistors I believe they are 1210 package there are a total of 3 1 is missing and the other 2 are out of tolorance.
Heres a pic:
D81:
D810:
D809:
D808:
C831:
C829:
C827:
C832:
C830:
C828:
Then between the caps there are Resistors I believe they are 1210 package there are a total of 3 1 is missing and the other 2 are out of tolorance.
Heres a pic:
Attachments
D811 is an SR106
The other 3 diodes are SFR104s.
The center resistor is 2.2 ohms
The caps are 220@63
You sure are brave repairing an amp as complex as this that someone parted out.
The other 3 diodes are SFR104s.
The center resistor is 2.2 ohms
The caps are 220@63
You sure are brave repairing an amp as complex as this that someone parted out.
cant be any worse then the other 2 amps i have sitting here that someone worked on and had no idea on what they were doing and they are gonna be very very time consuming amps to work on.
Do you know where i can buy the diodes I checked mouser,future and digikey they all say out of stock.
Thanks Perry,
Im ordering them from mouser . Do you have a good part number for the 2.2 ohm resistor?
Also is this the correct caps that i need?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...221MJ16S/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMviKXukECHWvUTge1B16QoV
Im ordering them from mouser . Do you have a good part number for the 2.2 ohm resistor?
Also is this the correct caps that i need?
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...221MJ16S/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMviKXukECHWvUTge1B16QoV
Last edited:
They should work. I don't have a part number for the resistor.
The 647-UPM1J221MHD may be a better choice (confirm that they'll fit before ordering). Low impedance caps are typically a better choice for switching power supplies. Again, the ones you listed would probably OK.
The 647-UPM1J221MHD may be a better choice (confirm that they'll fit before ordering). Low impedance caps are typically a better choice for switching power supplies. Again, the ones you listed would probably OK.
I also just got one of these in for repair but I dont know if I should even try fixing it. The section on the left near the transformers got all burnt up including the transformer. Heres some pics for you though.
Hey Mike,
Do you still have this amp? I'm looking for the values of these capacitors. i know one is a 10uF, and another is a 6.8uF.
The board designations are C514, C515, and C516.
Here is a pic of the amp/area I'm working on.
Thanks!
Do you still have this amp? I'm looking for the values of these capacitors. i know one is a 10uF, and another is a 6.8uF.
The board designations are C514, C515, and C516.
Here is a pic of the amp/area I'm working on.
Thanks!
Hey mRgSr. I have this amp posted i nthe other thread here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/180791-jl-audio-1000-1-a.html
However... The owner said for ~years the amp was screwed to the back of a dual 12" subwoofer speaker box. I'm guessing rattles and distortion because the gains were at 100% when i got it.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/180791-jl-audio-1000-1-a.html
However... The owner said for ~years the amp was screwed to the back of a dual 12" subwoofer speaker box. I'm guessing rattles and distortion because the gains were at 100% when i got it.
I have the diodes you said may work in this amp. SO D808,809,810 need to be replaced.
Which one goes where in this amp the 2 part numbers i have are:
UF4004
11DQ06
Which one goes where in this amp the 2 part numbers i have are:
UF4004
11DQ06
Ok thanks next question is on the led board (power light protections ect) there are 5 wires that solder to it THe yellow and orange wires are still attached.
the other locations are 1,2,3 and i have a red,brown and black wire do you know what order they go in?
the other locations are 1,2,3 and i have a red,brown and black wire do you know what order they go in?
See attached.
When working on the JL amps, I tape the boards to the top of the capacitors (the LEDs drop between the caps). This keeps them out of the way and prevents them from shorting out to the main board when working on the amp. If you look closely, you can also see that Goop has been applied to the wires to prevent stressing the wires at the point where the insulation stops. This prevents them from breaking.
When working on the JL amps, I tape the boards to the top of the capacitors (the LEDs drop between the caps). This keeps them out of the way and prevents them from shorting out to the main board when working on the amp. If you look closely, you can also see that Goop has been applied to the wires to prevent stressing the wires at the point where the insulation stops. This prevents them from breaking.
Attachments
Solderd all parts in . Now i have to track down why i have a directed short between power and ground trrminals
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