I just tested the link at the botom of this post. It is operational.
Just in case you want to know.
Just in case you want to know.
BP - try running a group buy before you disrespect someone who has tried numerous times to help you out. Trust me, it's a LOT more work than it seems. One or both of you probably have spam filter issues. Check your spam folder(s).
Search ths thread you'll find Tad's email address more than once, IIRC. It is the one he uses for paypal.
Search ths thread you'll find Tad's email address more than once, IIRC. It is the one he uses for paypal.
Bob, that's all I have tried to get was the addy to send the money to. How would you have responded to his note? I have been as respectfull as one could possibly be. I believe there is a problem in the his or my spam filter. I for one was trying to find a solution when I was told in no uncertain terms that he would no longer respond to any further communication. He did not acknowledge that there might be a problem. He just wrote me off like some fool who didn't know what he was doing. Again Thank you for giving me direction for the payments. Please do give me any idea on how you might have handled this situation.
regards,
Ray
regards,
Ray
Here is an answer, I hope, to the problem I was having. I searched my spam folder as suggested and I have eliminated "bellsouth.net" domain that was listed as one of the offensive sites. I believe the email should work now. Tad, if I could impose upon you one more time, would you test your email to me. Accept my appology for being so persistant because I knew I wasn't sending your responses out to deep space. It was the "snolly-gobster".
Brutepuppy,
Snolly-gobster I like that. Never heard that one before.
The total for the 2 boards is 34.00+5,50 postage+1.60paypal fee. Grand total is 41.10. My paypal address is my email address which you know. Thanks Tad
Now we still have some straglers 22 boards, who have not confirmed. If you do not wish for your boards to go to someone on the waiting list please confirm with address, total number of boards, email, method of payment. Tad
Snolly-gobster I like that. Never heard that one before.
The total for the 2 boards is 34.00+5,50 postage+1.60paypal fee. Grand total is 41.10. My paypal address is my email address which you know. Thanks Tad
Now we still have some straglers 22 boards, who have not confirmed. If you do not wish for your boards to go to someone on the waiting list please confirm with address, total number of boards, email, method of payment. Tad
Assuming I have a main bank of 10,000-15,000uf per rail(each channel), how small do you all recommend going on C21/27?
-chas
O.K.
Now I feel like I've asked too many questions here in this forum. 😱
Sorry, Bob! It was never my intention to hijack this thread for asking dumb questions.
I'm just so excited to be able to "brain-pick" some of the world's top DIY'ers that maybe I got carried away.
My apologies to anyone else here who I may have irritated...
Peace.
-chas
p.s. If anyone wants to correspond with me about the minutiae of building these boards off-thread, I welcome you to email me .
No problem. I was just trying to keep from getting too involved when I was supposed to be working.
There were probably 20 or 30 lurkers with the same questions hoping someone else would ask so they didn't have to.
Rule of thumb - if a cap is used for decoupling (power rail to ground) you have some flexibility in choosing its value. 100uf up to whatever fits is generally OK. In the case of the snap ins, they aren't really necessary, Leach's original design did not have them.
Don't over think it. 😉
There were probably 20 or 30 lurkers with the same questions hoping someone else would ask so they didn't have to.
Rule of thumb - if a cap is used for decoupling (power rail to ground) you have some flexibility in choosing its value. 100uf up to whatever fits is generally OK. In the case of the snap ins, they aren't really necessary, Leach's original design did not have them.
Don't over think it. 😉
clm811,
I thought that was the purpose of this forum. Ask away. If someone does not want to answer they do not have to. From what I can tell your questions are all related to this thread. Just think maybe by this time next week you can start soldering in components.
One little suggestion. Do like Jens recommends on his website. Solder in the small hard to reach parts first. I would suggest doing the little three legged bjt's in the frontend as a starter. They are murder to solder when all of the other components are in the way. I always try to get solder to run on the top and bottom of the pads and it can be real hard when things get cluttered up. Another thing is to work out in advance how you plan on routing the wire. The board is quite long with input on one end and output on the opposite and many problems, motoboating being just one, are alleviated by proper wire routing.
The large capacitor you were referring to earlier might best be chosen on physical size and weight requirements first since the board is probably going to be vertical.
Scheduled delivery to ME by Advanced Cicuits is November 3.
Tad
I thought that was the purpose of this forum. Ask away. If someone does not want to answer they do not have to. From what I can tell your questions are all related to this thread. Just think maybe by this time next week you can start soldering in components.
One little suggestion. Do like Jens recommends on his website. Solder in the small hard to reach parts first. I would suggest doing the little three legged bjt's in the frontend as a starter. They are murder to solder when all of the other components are in the way. I always try to get solder to run on the top and bottom of the pads and it can be real hard when things get cluttered up. Another thing is to work out in advance how you plan on routing the wire. The board is quite long with input on one end and output on the opposite and many problems, motoboating being just one, are alleviated by proper wire routing.
The large capacitor you were referring to earlier might best be chosen on physical size and weight requirements first since the board is probably going to be vertical.
Scheduled delivery to ME by Advanced Cicuits is November 3.
Tad
the on board smoothing/decoupling could be 470uF to 3300uF.
But 10mF at the rectifiers is far too low for deep and controlled bass.
But 10mF at the rectifiers is far too low for deep and controlled bass.
At 10,000 uf per rail, you will get more ripple and rail sag than with higher values. For home use other than subwoofer duty at reasonable power/SPL, it will probably be acceptable. The four channel unit in my bedroom sounds fine with 39,000 uf per rail.
Leach suggests 8-12,000 uf per rail for a stereo amp.
Then again we are DIYers and caps aren't that expensive...
Tad - I didn't plan to get up quite so early, but my son got his cat a new squeaky mouse toy yesterday and she found where I'd hidden it.
Leach suggests 8-12,000 uf per rail for a stereo amp.
Then again we are DIYers and caps aren't that expensive...
Tad - I didn't plan to get up quite so early, but my son got his cat a new squeaky mouse toy yesterday and she found where I'd hidden it.
[OT] If dogs could be left alone for a weekend, there wouldn't be a cat here. At least this cat will fetch. [/OT]
may i ask what do you call a rail
two lines between +DC and 0 V or the lines between +DC and -DC
two lines between +DC and 0 V or the lines between +DC and -DC
supply rails are generally the +ve and -ve supplies.
However the power supply Zero Volt line is technically an integral part of the power supply system and carries significant current back to the power supply. This could equally be called a supply rail but most refer to it confusingly as ground just like all the other grounds in the amplifier.
I do wish we could call each return (ground) by their purpose identifier and avoid all this confusion.
However the power supply Zero Volt line is technically an integral part of the power supply system and carries significant current back to the power supply. This could equally be called a supply rail but most refer to it confusingly as ground just like all the other grounds in the amplifier.
I do wish we could call each return (ground) by their purpose identifier and avoid all this confusion.
so if i have understood right a rail Is +ve and -ve lines
so If we say that a PS has 10.000 uf per rail that means that I do have a filter cap 5.000 uF from +ve to 0 V and another filter cap 5.000 uF from -ve to 0 V
Is that correct
so If we say that a PS has 10.000 uf per rail that means that I do have a filter cap 5.000 uF from +ve to 0 V and another filter cap 5.000 uF from -ve to 0 V
Is that correct
Guilty as charged. By rails I meant V+ to 0V (Output return/ power ground) and V- to 0V (Output return)
So 10,000 uF per rail would mean a 10,000 uf cap connected to V+ and the center tap and another connected to V- and the center tap.
Notice that this amp has a separate ground for the signal and power. The two are connected by a resistor, which tends to keep power pulses out of the signal.
So 10,000 uF per rail would mean a 10,000 uf cap connected to V+ and the center tap and another connected to V- and the center tap.
Notice that this amp has a separate ground for the signal and power. The two are connected by a resistor, which tends to keep power pulses out of the signal.
THE BOARDS ARRIVED TODAY.
I will try to package all of the boards this weekend and begin mailing out Monday and Tuesday.
There are still 20 boards not confirmed. I will hold them for one week and then I will put them out for others.
Tad
I will try to package all of the boards this weekend and begin mailing out Monday and Tuesday.
There are still 20 boards not confirmed. I will hold them for one week and then I will put them out for others.
Tad