Hi forum.
about to start seriously considering my audio system for my jeep.
going to be a daily driver, plus be a semi showcase type rig for when i go out and do forest parties with my main PA system.
i wanna be able to DJ off my Jeep sometimes, but also be able to really enjoy the sound when im driving around and just to have as a nice system to sit around the campfire.
i currently have a small Mazda E2000 with a pair of alpine 4inch drivers in the dash, and a pair of HiFi subwoofers in behind the front seats all running off the in dash headunit. it sounds good. even to use as a camp stereo, it gets quite loud when i lift the tail gate.
what im thinking is using a 10inch woofer: pioneer TSW254C
( http://www.annonsera.se/uploads/00001/pioneer-ts-w254c-500w-10tom.pdf )
in my front doors for kick bass/lower mid, probably a small 10L sealed enclosure inside the front door and a sealed 4inch driver(alpine E series) above it for upper mids/tweeter and also a little "infinity" tweeter on the inside of the door mirror
ill have a pretty full on subwoofer cab in the back along with some 6inch coaxial drivers in the roof at the tailgate but wanted as much sound as i could get up front.
what are your thoughts on this setup??
about to start seriously considering my audio system for my jeep.
going to be a daily driver, plus be a semi showcase type rig for when i go out and do forest parties with my main PA system.
i wanna be able to DJ off my Jeep sometimes, but also be able to really enjoy the sound when im driving around and just to have as a nice system to sit around the campfire.
i currently have a small Mazda E2000 with a pair of alpine 4inch drivers in the dash, and a pair of HiFi subwoofers in behind the front seats all running off the in dash headunit. it sounds good. even to use as a camp stereo, it gets quite loud when i lift the tail gate.
what im thinking is using a 10inch woofer: pioneer TSW254C
( http://www.annonsera.se/uploads/00001/pioneer-ts-w254c-500w-10tom.pdf )
in my front doors for kick bass/lower mid, probably a small 10L sealed enclosure inside the front door and a sealed 4inch driver(alpine E series) above it for upper mids/tweeter and also a little "infinity" tweeter on the inside of the door mirror
ill have a pretty full on subwoofer cab in the back along with some 6inch coaxial drivers in the roof at the tailgate but wanted as much sound as i could get up front.
what are your thoughts on this setup??
Hi klampykixx,
How-a-bout a couple of these to start with...
4-15 inch Alpine 'R series' subs driven by TWO JL Audio "HD-750/1's"
Only kidding hahaha... you'd have be 'OCD' to build that into your D/D!
Rgds!
How-a-bout a couple of these to start with...
4-15 inch Alpine 'R series' subs driven by TWO JL Audio "HD-750/1's"





Only kidding hahaha... you'd have be 'OCD' to build that into your D/D!

Rgds!
Thanks for the "suggestion"rigtec but you are actually close to the mark.
I plan on using a horn type sub that can also be a closed box for inside use but that's not what this thread is about lol
So thoughts on using a 10" driver in a small sealed cab as front kickers? Am I crazy or should I be ok?
I plan on using a horn type sub that can also be a closed box for inside use but that's not what this thread is about lol
So thoughts on using a 10" driver in a small sealed cab as front kickers? Am I crazy or should I be ok?
Any chance i could have someone do a response simulation for my chosen woofer in a 10L cab for inside the car??
Unless you post T/S parameters, noone will do a simulation as its impossible. Most car audio midwoofers have a Qts of around 0.6-0.7 as they`re intended for sealed use. Subwoofer, forget the car audio rubbish that looks fancy and buy a Peerless XXLS, hits hard, low Fs, high sensitivity for a sub with such low resonanse and when you play a double bass or low octave piano, you can actually recognize it of being such, unlike the heavy cones with stiff rubber suspensions and poorly designed magnet drive found in most car audio drivers. You can also do a SB Acoustics setup in the front - the SB15MFC30-4 produces tremendous bass in smaller sealed enclosures ( it actually works best in 5-7l ) and has wide dispersion characteristics, where the SB26STCN can be crossed very low, down to 1800Hz with a 3rd order acoustical crossover, due to its higher xmax than most tweeters, also has a copper cap. The flange is plastic so you can trim to fit. If you go this way, let me know and I`ll send you a crossover schematic ( I run such components in my car ).
I posted a link to the drivers pdf file in my first post.
The system will primarily play electronic music with occasional heavy metal/rock music.
The system will primarily play electronic music with occasional heavy metal/rock music.
The reason i want to use the pioneer driver is i already own a pair of them and not about to buy more drivers.
Just wanted to make best use of what i have.
If they're better off in the back than the front I'll do that instead, i was just wanting to get as much sound stage up front as possible and im sure they'll physically fit in the door
Just wanted to make best use of what i have.
If they're better off in the back than the front I'll do that instead, i was just wanting to get as much sound stage up front as possible and im sure they'll physically fit in the door
i doubt that you'd be able to mount a 10 inch sub in the front doors of a jeep cherokee and still be able to use your windows!!
it's not just the depth that matters.the glass slide mechanism occupies quite a bit of space and generally halves the available space.
it's not just the depth that matters.the glass slide mechanism occupies quite a bit of space and generally halves the available space.
It's got the solid quarter windows which means the moving glass section doesn't even come close to the front of the door. Which is the reason i considered it in the first place
well i guess peeling the inner door skins and having a look would be in order but i still think that the mechanism whether manual or motor driven will create clearance issues.
not to mention that a sub in a door has to deal with limited space(volume) for tuning and the window gaskets may burp or fart at high volumes (been there in trying to do the same thing with 6.5 inch subs in truck doors for a customer)
not to mention that a sub in a door has to deal with limited space(volume) for tuning and the window gaskets may burp or fart at high volumes (been there in trying to do the same thing with 6.5 inch subs in truck doors for a customer)
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There's seriously tons of room in the front of the door but I did just go out and check the size relative to the door and it's much deeper magnet than I realised.
Not sure on the capacity of any potential sealed chamber inside.
Not sure on the capacity of any potential sealed chamber inside.
if your looking to mount the subs within the vehicle as in "not in a box" in order to keep all available cargo space the rear quarters may be an option (but if i recall correctly you'd loose storage pockets that are there)
Turk this sound system will double as a portable PA system for DJing on. I plan to build a horn/long throw sub in the back area and was thinking the doors would be open and used as mid drivers.
I'm gonna go ahead with the tens in the front doors I just wanted someone to sim the response so i could estimate what i need for upper mid drivers at the crossover point.
And also how small I can make the sealed chamber for the tens before it really impacts the bass response around the 70-80hz mark
I'm gonna go ahead with the tens in the front doors I just wanted someone to sim the response so i could estimate what i need for upper mid drivers at the crossover point.
And also how small I can make the sealed chamber for the tens before it really impacts the bass response around the 70-80hz mark
i doubt that you'd be able to mount a 10 inch sub in the front doors of a jeep cherokee and still be able to use your windows!!
it's not just the depth that matters.the glass slide mechanism occupies quite a bit of space and generally halves the available space.
Hi turk,
Other reasons NOT to use subs in the car doors:
(1) Water: The stock midrange door speakers that are there are "semi-waterproof"; rubber, poly, epoxy, carbon-fibre cone/suspension... which may compromise the SQ of a sub; there are drains at the bottom of the doors for this reason.
(2) Stuffing: Cannot be used in the wet environment due to bio-growth hazards e.g., mold... "which would 'definitely' be needed in the sheet metal/mechanical environment." PS: Dynamat sound damping material is used to quiet the vehicle; not to facilitate subwoofer audio correction alone!
(3) Displacement: Would be very difficult 'at best' to calculate/provide the volume of air needed to accommodate driver parameters, much more to predict/simulate driver behavior.
(4) Rigidity: Subwoofer's need stiff enclosure walls/bracing to prevent box resonance at the lower octaves... just cautions; "not meant to discourage you klampykixx!"
Rgds
ok guess i missed that point. i do hope you'll have enough available space in the door to make it happen.
rigtec
your preaching to the choir like i mentioned earlier i was forced into attempting this by a fellow who wouldn't accept all the caveats of such a venture.
rigtec
your preaching to the choir like i mentioned earlier i was forced into attempting this by a fellow who wouldn't accept all the caveats of such a venture.
ok guess i missed that point. i do hope you'll have enough available space in the door to make it happen.
rigtec
your preaching to the choir like i mentioned earlier i was forced into attempting this by a fellow who wouldn't accept all the caveats of such a venture.
All of us 'precocious audio aficionados' stretch our imaginations as far as the limits of physics will allow, and so fail at some point, "not to our demise mind you", but just to force an alternative direction. Even Thomas A. Edison failed 'hundreds of times' before his many successes e.g., The Phonograph, telegraph, mimeograph, incandescent light bulb, electric power distribution, the Movie camera, etc, Hahaha... so glad he didn't quit!

"Learning is what it's all about mates!" Cheers!
rigtec, those are all very valid points to make.
* the woofers are polycone so safe from water thankfully 🙂
*this one im not sure on, coz if i build a small cab into the door i think ill need some wadding/insulation/stuffing to keep any boomy-ness down.
is it true that stuffing the cab gives driver the illusion of a larger space???
im feeling like ill be able to squeeze in approx 10L, maybe more if i use fibreglass to make the enclosure, im just not sure how that will affect the driver's ability to go down to under 60hz???
no discouragement accepted !! haha
completely understand the requirement for a stiff enclosure.
im no stranger to building speaker cabs... just check my Facebook page in my sig and i think you'll understand 😛
(1) Water: The stock midrange door speakers that are there are "semi-waterproof"; rubber, poly, epoxy, carbon-fibre cone/suspension... which may compromise the SQ of a sub; there are drains at the bottom of the doors for this reason.
* the woofers are polycone so safe from water thankfully 🙂
(2) Stuffing: Cannot be used in the wet environment due to bio-growth hazards e.g., mold... "which would 'definitely' be needed in the sheet metal/mechanical environment." PS: Dynamat sound damping material is used to quiet the vehicle; not to facilitate subwoofer audio correction alone!
*this one im not sure on, coz if i build a small cab into the door i think ill need some wadding/insulation/stuffing to keep any boomy-ness down.
is it true that stuffing the cab gives driver the illusion of a larger space???
(3) Displacement: Would be very difficult 'at best' to calculate/provide the volume of air needed to accommodate driver parameters, much more to predict/simulate driver behavior.
im feeling like ill be able to squeeze in approx 10L, maybe more if i use fibreglass to make the enclosure, im just not sure how that will affect the driver's ability to go down to under 60hz???
(4) Rigidity: Subwoofer's need stiff enclosure walls/bracing to prevent box resonance at the lower octaves... just cautions; "not meant to discourage you klampykixx!"
no discouragement accepted !! haha
completely understand the requirement for a stiff enclosure.
im no stranger to building speaker cabs... just check my Facebook page in my sig and i think you'll understand 😛
"...is it true that stuffing the cab gives driver the illusion of a larger space???"
Yes that is true 'however' there's no magic! All things being equal, depending how large the driver/enclosure is, there is some FORGIVENESS built-in to stuffing a box. With a small box, you may be able to ignore (to a degree) some of the bracing, driver displacement (space driver consumes when mounted), or "the ports" when calculating box internal area; but that's relative to the size of the enclosure, amount/type of wadding, frequency range... etc! And AFAIK, there is no exact formula for this because there are so many variables; even the experts advise to: Add stuffing/remove stuffing until you find that sweet spot... I had to do that when I installed the four fifteens in the photos above; it was a royal PITA because doing it is so subjective, it all depends on how you feel when you do it, type of program material played when testing, "even the temp/humidity plays a role"... gotta just keep at it until...
"...im feeling like ill be able to squeeze in approx 10L, maybe more if i use fibreglass to make the enclosure, im just not sure how that will affect the driver's ability to go down to under 60hz???..."
I understand the dilemma; always a compromise between size/efficiency/extension! I think you'll find just the right combo if you keep working it!
rigtec, cheers!
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