I'm looking at affordable option to replace the OEM Plate amp in my JBL E250P which is rated at 250W 4 ohms. This is part of my home-theater setup and the sub amp is actually driven by the signal level output from my Denon AVR.
A replacement plate amp (such as a Dayton Audio) is both expensive and physically prohibitive as involves much more rework of the cabinet to accommodate.
In mini amps, what I'm currently considering might be:
Aiyima A3001 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LZFBLDM or
Nobsound G2PRO - https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Hi-Fi-Subwoofer-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B07TTMN51V
These look to be pretty much identical inside and utilize the TI 3255 - one difference being the power adapter is 6A for the Aiyima vs 5A for the Nobsound
I'm also wondering whether upgrading to a 48V 5A power adapter is worth the investment for either of these and give a meaningful boost in power?
The benefit of those is they are certainly easy to integrate, just hook up to the speaker.
Then there's this option to go with a Sure/Wondom board:
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/400Watt-Class-Audio-Amplifier-Board/dp/B07HHNWQSK?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Then get an appropriate power supply to drive it - lots of inexpensive options on Amazon.
I'm not sure that the mini amps are enough to drive that sub although I've seen reviews of others doing similar as plate amp replacements. For sure the power number they quote are wildly optimistic though, per dyno tests of similar on YouTube
I don't have any point of reference for the Board type solution but even if those specs are exaggerated, then would still be ahead of the minis. (they have 5 & 600 W boards too, but thinking this one would be adequate) Integration is not really much of an issue, I would just fit the board and PSU in the sub enclosure. And you can even get a volume control for under $10 for those boards. A low pass filter would not be necessary as handled by the main amp.
Board, power supply and volume control would collectively be about $85, very similar to the mini-amps, which would however be a little more if adding a 48V adapter.
So what are your thoughts/opinions?
A replacement plate amp (such as a Dayton Audio) is both expensive and physically prohibitive as involves much more rework of the cabinet to accommodate.
In mini amps, what I'm currently considering might be:
Aiyima A3001 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LZFBLDM or
Nobsound G2PRO - https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Hi-Fi-Subwoofer-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B07TTMN51V
These look to be pretty much identical inside and utilize the TI 3255 - one difference being the power adapter is 6A for the Aiyima vs 5A for the Nobsound
I'm also wondering whether upgrading to a 48V 5A power adapter is worth the investment for either of these and give a meaningful boost in power?
The benefit of those is they are certainly easy to integrate, just hook up to the speaker.
Then there's this option to go with a Sure/Wondom board:
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/400Watt-Class-Audio-Amplifier-Board/dp/B07HHNWQSK?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Then get an appropriate power supply to drive it - lots of inexpensive options on Amazon.
I'm not sure that the mini amps are enough to drive that sub although I've seen reviews of others doing similar as plate amp replacements. For sure the power number they quote are wildly optimistic though, per dyno tests of similar on YouTube
I don't have any point of reference for the Board type solution but even if those specs are exaggerated, then would still be ahead of the minis. (they have 5 & 600 W boards too, but thinking this one would be adequate) Integration is not really much of an issue, I would just fit the board and PSU in the sub enclosure. And you can even get a volume control for under $10 for those boards. A low pass filter would not be necessary as handled by the main amp.
Board, power supply and volume control would collectively be about $85, very similar to the mini-amps, which would however be a little more if adding a 48V adapter.
So what are your thoughts/opinions?
@CH-53K I also started same post on Reddit with little contribution there either.
I was planning to go with the Wodom board - priced out all the other things I would need - PSU, blanking plate, feedthroughs etc and about to pull trigger
But then I just came across this - https://fosiaudio.com/pages/monoblock-power-amplifier-v3-mono
That is a new (as yet unreleased) mini amplifier
(It's similar technology to the first two links above, featuring the Texas Instruments TPA3255 Power Amp Chip)
Note the 'kickstarter' link (click on that within the link attached and subsribe for updates)
I signed up for notifications on that & I think I am going to jump on that when it becomes live in about 10 days
Fosi Audio have done Kickstarters before and the pricing for those is generally attractive
The specs on this new V3 mono look enticing especially with the 48V supply
They also have good reputation on YouTube reviews
So I think that might just be my solution - if the price is in line with expectation, I'm going for this.
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Decosse - thanks for the response! It looks like the Fios V3 isn't available yet but I will keep checking. Admittedly, I know just enough to be dangerous when it comes to this subject matter. Will this be a plug n play fix or will it still be necessary to fabricate blocking plates, etc.? Willing to accept any assistance you can offer!
I think they are due to ship by end of the month (the targets in the kickstarter have been met so they might go before the original commit date)
You just need to connect the output of the new amp directly to the speaker itself and then the input RCA in from your current input to the new amp.
The connection schematic is exactly the same as before, except you have a new two-part scheme - amplifier and power supply - vs the original.
As far as amp goes, treat it the same as original, signal in from RCA and speaker output to the subwoofer speaker.
You can either just drill hole in existing amp panel to feed through new speaker wire, or just make a blanking plate to replace the original complete amp assembly. (you can pick up aluminum sheet in various sizes off Amazon)
With a new blanking panel you can make as simple or complicated as your skills and tools dictate:
simple, an oversize panel surface mounted to rear, with just a single hole feedthrough for the speaker wire.
Or - cut panel to exact cut-out size, same as the original amp plate; then again simple hole for speaker wire OR you can get creative and mount power supply and amp INSIDE the enclosure, then you need feedthroughs for power and RCA to get into it. This might be overkill especially if you have room to locate the supply and amp outside (maybe even mounted on the outside rear face of enclosure - or simply lying on the floor!)
Look up 'panel mount speaker connector' on amazon, that will make for a clean connection to the outside and make it sealed. It's a mono speaker so you only need one pair a '+' and '-'
You just need to connect the output of the new amp directly to the speaker itself and then the input RCA in from your current input to the new amp.
The connection schematic is exactly the same as before, except you have a new two-part scheme - amplifier and power supply - vs the original.
As far as amp goes, treat it the same as original, signal in from RCA and speaker output to the subwoofer speaker.
You can either just drill hole in existing amp panel to feed through new speaker wire, or just make a blanking plate to replace the original complete amp assembly. (you can pick up aluminum sheet in various sizes off Amazon)
With a new blanking panel you can make as simple or complicated as your skills and tools dictate:
simple, an oversize panel surface mounted to rear, with just a single hole feedthrough for the speaker wire.
Or - cut panel to exact cut-out size, same as the original amp plate; then again simple hole for speaker wire OR you can get creative and mount power supply and amp INSIDE the enclosure, then you need feedthroughs for power and RCA to get into it. This might be overkill especially if you have room to locate the supply and amp outside (maybe even mounted on the outside rear face of enclosure - or simply lying on the floor!)
Look up 'panel mount speaker connector' on amazon, that will make for a clean connection to the outside and make it sealed. It's a mono speaker so you only need one pair a '+' and '-'