Thanks for your thoughtful advice and generosity. I'll bow out before I wear out my welcome. I'll proceed with a bit more caution before I fire it up next time. Avoiding exploding capacitors would be nice.
I don't think you are in any bad standing or anything, I've come to expect it whenever I have had an issue on here myself, so now I just try to limit discussion to capacitor preferences and such.
The reason for keeping one hand in a pocket is to prevent potentially creating a circuit where you upper body is within the loop, that's all, wasn't meant to be criticism or heckling.
Maybe try using a reduced voltage until you are confident with the arrangement, using a wall wart to get an idea of what's going on.
The reason for keeping one hand in a pocket is to prevent potentially creating a circuit where you upper body is within the loop, that's all, wasn't meant to be criticism or heckling.
Maybe try using a reduced voltage until you are confident with the arrangement, using a wall wart to get an idea of what's going on.
Last edited:
Yardbird.
Be prepared if the bias adjusters work the wrong way. (anticlockwise)
Mine did on my F6 but the bulb tester allowed be to see it and adjust things before disaster.
Be prepared if the bias adjusters work the wrong way. (anticlockwise)
Mine did on my F6 but the bulb tester allowed be to see it and adjust things before disaster.
I notice one more thing that is missing in your build:
The connection from PSU PCB to the chassis should be made via a diode bridge+thermistor. You only have thermistor. Check the latest PSU schematics in the F5turbo article.
The connection from PSU PCB to the chassis should be made via a diode bridge+thermistor. You only have thermistor. Check the latest PSU schematics in the F5turbo article.
Can you give an exact reference for this please.
I have not seen that in any of my reading.
OK
Unusual that the diode bridge to earth only shows on that article.
I can not see it on any of the build guides, only the thermistor.
Unusual that the diode bridge to earth only shows on that article.
I can not see it on any of the build guides, only the thermistor.
Hahahahahaha.
I thought they were a thoroughly meek and humble bunch of fellows over there. Hehehehehe
Amp is up and running and sounds great! Rearranged the layout as recommended. Replaced the 2 resistors that I hosed up. Am using it with some Dennis Murphy ER-18s, a Wadia 121 and a B1 Buffer. I took the buffer out of the rig and, while it sounds better with the Prima Luna PL4 amp, the F6 didn't seem to care. The speakers are not efficient (~88bd/watt at best) and are 4 ohms. Really smokes the PL in most every way. Biased the amp at 5.65v and it is heating to about 49 degrees at the heat sinks. May try to increase it just a bit.
Thanks for your help. Learned a lot and had fun.
Jeff
Thanks for your help. Learned a lot and had fun.
Jeff
Attachments
Nice layout, did you end up getting the 90º angle bracket for the transformer?
Regarding the heatsink temperature, make sure you check it when/if the weather gets really hot. A couple of days ago the outside temperatures reached 38C/100F. The temp in my room went up and my sinks were at 60.5C, they were at 54 when I first biased the amp one month ago. Still safe though and sounding great!
Regarding the heatsink temperature, make sure you check it when/if the weather gets really hot. A couple of days ago the outside temperatures reached 38C/100F. The temp in my room went up and my sinks were at 60.5C, they were at 54 when I first biased the amp one month ago. Still safe though and sounding great!
Mine is biased to 620mv
But I live in the UK Hottest day yesterday 28c indoors
Heatsinks at 53c
I do notice that the 10mm front plate radiates a lot of heat which helps.
But I live in the UK Hottest day yesterday 28c indoors
Heatsinks at 53c
I do notice that the 10mm front plate radiates a lot of heat which helps.
Made an mount out of a shelf bracket. Worked pretty well. Right now the amp is in the basement at ~68 degrees F. I will re-check bias and try to reduce the brightness of the LEDs with some sandpaper. I think I used 10K resisters. They are brighter than I would like.
I would use another resistor to decrease the brightness. Buy 2 or 3 values to see which one gives you the brightness you prefer.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.