Hello everyone, I'm new to this field. I've only done a simple mono amplifier (TDA2003) on a protoboard with an spare 5 Ohm driver I got from an old BT speaker.
Now I want to design and build something a little bit more complex and of a decent quality. My idea is to make an stereo amplifier and medium size cabinet. The amp design I'm thinking of using again the TDA2003, since I already made it work pretty good. One TDA2003 for L channel, another for R channel and another one for a mono channel coming from a low pass filter and then to a woofer speaker (Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" Treated Paper Cone Midbass Woofer 4 Ohm or similar). The L and R channels I want to feed them to two full range drivers (Dayton Audio PC68-8 2-1/2" Full-Range Poly Cone Driver). My goal is to have a stereo system with a nice moderate bass boost.
I know that this design is rather simple and not very sophisticated. Since it's my first serious-ish project I just want to learn while doing it and achieve something functional while not spending a lot of money on top-notch drivers and components. I just want to know if this idea is realistic and if executed correctly will work as intended. I'm here to learn so please don't hold back any comments or suggestion, thanks!
Now I want to design and build something a little bit more complex and of a decent quality. My idea is to make an stereo amplifier and medium size cabinet. The amp design I'm thinking of using again the TDA2003, since I already made it work pretty good. One TDA2003 for L channel, another for R channel and another one for a mono channel coming from a low pass filter and then to a woofer speaker (Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" Treated Paper Cone Midbass Woofer 4 Ohm or similar). The L and R channels I want to feed them to two full range drivers (Dayton Audio PC68-8 2-1/2" Full-Range Poly Cone Driver). My goal is to have a stereo system with a nice moderate bass boost.
I know that this design is rather simple and not very sophisticated. Since it's my first serious-ish project I just want to learn while doing it and achieve something functional while not spending a lot of money on top-notch drivers and components. I just want to know if this idea is realistic and if executed correctly will work as intended. I'm here to learn so please don't hold back any comments or suggestion, thanks!
Hi, those are the things that you can find used for 10€, like 'multimedia speakers'.
Sounds like a reasonable enough idea. Search for boombox in the forum and you can see what others came up with. Visetta looks great and has a quite similar driver spec.
You will learn something along the way I’m sure!
Jeff.
You will learn something along the way I’m sure!
Jeff.
It surely will!
You might want to consider changing the TDA2003 (intended for max power at low voltage car use) to a TDA2030, 2040 or 2050 for better sound quality.
Also consider high-passing the two channels intended for the full-range drivers.
Maybe do an internet search for "2.1 system" or "2.1 crossover"!
Yes, it is realistic and a good next step from your first project. Have fun with it!
As other said, move from TDA2003 (single power supply) to a better quality TDA with symetrical power supply (+V and -V) for speaker direct coupling without output capacitor.
Since you want to learn, you'll add some more concepts each project you build.
Since you want to learn, you'll add some more concepts each project you build.
You mean sending the mono signal (L and R combined) to the L driver and to the woofer while sending only the R signal to the R driver? If so, what advantage would I get by not isolating the L signal?
No, he means sending the Mono signal to the subwoofer. Keep L/R for the L/R speakers.
Regarding the power supply for both +V and -V, is it ok to use a switching power supply like the mean well LRS 150? I've never worked with them so I don't know for sure if I can get a negative voltage from it without messing up the common reference of the whole circuit.
They usually induce noise on the psu rails. That can be more or less solved by using crc or clc filter cells after the smps but it will lower the availlable voltage on the rail.
If i were you i would stick to linear supply for now.
If i were you i would stick to linear supply for now.
Hi,
If you plan to use such power supply, you'll need 2 units.
As mentioned above, I'd go with a linear transformer+rectifier+capacitor 60Hz power supply due to noise.
If you plan to use such power supply, you'll need 2 units.
As mentioned above, I'd go with a linear transformer+rectifier+capacitor 60Hz power supply due to noise.
The linear would be like this (just an example I took from a project).
No problems at all.
No problems at all.
Be aware that non all smps block allow what Ron linked: all have not an isolated 'ground' output.
Is it possible to buy a finished supply like this on amazon or similar or do I have to build it my self? I know it's not a super complicated circuit but I'd prefer to have a well built circuit with fuses and maybe over volatge protection
Yes, the chassis must be isolated from -V on each power supply if their chassis will be in contact.
Or you isolate both chassis from each other if they are not isolated.
As I said, concepts to learn!
Or you isolate both chassis from each other if they are not isolated.
As I said, concepts to learn!
You can search, but most people just want SMPS today.
But the linear is very easy to build.
You just need a transformer, a rectifier bridge and the capacitors.
It will be a good exercise!