Its starting to take form. I won't like the horn height until it sits as close as possible to the top of the enclosure. Its strange to think something this size could sum very well at close range but as long as I get the horn down to where I want it to me, the concluded sound shouldn't very different than the first iteration. The plan is to test first with just the upper pair of woofers.
Sounds like what Victor Frankenstein might have said 😉
By chance I just sold 5 crown cts amps... and my company owes me some money, might be enough to get 4 of another 15" I have my eye on... then I would just need to sell the 3 oberton nmb600's... its too late to get my money back from @Omholt via paypal resolution center.
I do have good news, this is the frequency response I got during a quick measurement, but this was before I realized a driver was crapped out. In doors at about 16"
I do have good news, this is the frequency response I got during a quick measurement, but this was before I realized a driver was crapped out. In doors at about 16"
the woofer may or may not be blown... I am going to have to remove the woofer and start from the basics... there is a noise and I can't source it. Also, there is only one set of wires coming from the plug that have power...
So confused right now.... if I loosen up the mounting screws I don't get the noise........ I could theorize that the frame is being torqued but should be virtually impossible...
This foam is planted onto the back side of the baffle, depending on how the mounting screws are torqued its causing voice coil rub... wtffffffffff
This foam is planted onto the back side of the baffle, depending on how the mounting screws are torqued its causing voice coil rub... wtffffffffff
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I'm not prepared to give a straight answer on that. I prefer to use hex head screws on woofers, not because I need the leverage of a socket driver but so I can focus my fingers on torquing them.
Out of the baffle, I get the noise, which I am assuming is slight voice coil rub..... I can squeeze the frame, inward from the a certain position on the frame around the surround and the noise goes away.... if I try to bend the frame the noise gets worse...
I think there is something in the voice coil gap that is making the tolerance supper tight.. or the frame has been slightly bent....
You guys think its worth it to take pro to take the driver apart and see if anything is in the voice coil gap?
If I can figure out how to take this thing apart I may be able figure something out... the rear of the motor seems to come apart.... some how.
I think there is something in the voice coil gap that is making the tolerance supper tight.. or the frame has been slightly bent....
You guys think its worth it to take pro to take the driver apart and see if anything is in the voice coil gap?
If I can figure out how to take this thing apart I may be able figure something out... the rear of the motor seems to come apart.... some how.
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Hello, Clampo!
Can we see the details of how the pavilions are made, please?
Sincerely,
Can we see the details of how the pavilions are made, please?
Sincerely,
I once had similar issues and suspected voice coil rub - but in the end it was a noisy air leak. Could it be that?
Hello, joker-handyman!
I'd even say (to borrow a famous quote from Goscinny) that it's an exclusive operation of the hand and foot!
But more seriously, it strongly resembles what "Audiopavillon" does in France, which was the subject of my question now, more in-depth: is it really a DIY creation made by Clampo?!
For me, it's still a new-generation bidet bowl, at least it looks like one.
Yours,
Laurent.
I'd even say (to borrow a famous quote from Goscinny) that it's an exclusive operation of the hand and foot!
But more seriously, it strongly resembles what "Audiopavillon" does in France, which was the subject of my question now, more in-depth: is it really a DIY creation made by Clampo?!
For me, it's still a new-generation bidet bowl, at least it looks like one.
Yours,
Laurent.
Or the cone (and voice coil) has shifted (sagged) over time, and needs to be rotated 180 degrees from it's previous storage or cabinet orientation.
If that is the case, you should be able to measure a difference in the distance of the surround to the gasket height from one side to another, or distance from the cone/spider joint to the magnet structure, or a combination of both.
1mm shift could be enough to cause a voice coil to drag.
Steaming parts of the suspension and cone with judicious weight placement could reverse the shift fairly quickly.
I'd have mess around with it... What if I let it play 20hz for an extended amount of time? There is one store with Oberton nmb600 left and they don't deliver to America, wtfffffff
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https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speaker-oberton-15nmb601-8-ohm-15-inch.html apparently they released a newer version, specs are identical only the frame is different.......
There's also a recone cone kit
There's also a recone cone kit