Installing the Right Quality Speakers in an Arcade Cabinet (replacement driver help)

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#42
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#43
tomorrow said:
They wouldn't go very loud. They were quieter than the stock speakers. I turned the volume on the PCB up all the way. It just sounded equally as bad as the stock ones. Tinny, hollow, no rounded full sound.

Also, I bought 4ohm as that is what is in the cab stock.. just trying to follow what they've got. The difference is the NOM WATTS. The stock ones are 10W and the new ones are 25W. So I am assuming I need an amp. Or if it is possible, find nice drivers that are 10W. Make sense?
Click to expand...

Watts are rarely a useful figure of merit, and often misleading. Too many
can be a huge red flag for inefficient motor with excessive moving mass,
and a sloppy magnetic gap.

You have already observed how 25W is not necessarily louder than 10W.
Same goes for 4ohm vs 8ohm, 4 not necessarily louder w. the same amp,
sometimes just makes an amp work twice as hard for the same result.

All trustworthy specs are important toward identifying your best choice.
If I had to dumb down a choice to one figure of merit only, have to say
go by main magnet weight. Not counting reverse donut stuck on back
for shielding purposes. And always favoring Neodymium over Ferrite.
 
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#44
sreten said:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-906VL...5X4K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1313108361&sr=8-3

Hi, well the spec of the above is nonsense, as it is for most car amps, rgds, sreten.

Nevertheless the 25W drivers here will easily take 100W midrange peaks, but not bass.
Click to expand...

Great. The EQ will probably be very helpful. I just ordered one.

So do you think when I am wiring this up, I should use some new heavier gauge speaker wire? The distance from the JAMMA harness (the audio signal) and the speakers is about a 4-6 foot wire. The wire is very thin and shitty, probably 26-28AWG. I was wondering if I should swap ALL the audio wire, directly from the harness all the way to the speaker with some 16 Gauge speaker wire.

Or should I not worry about it?

kenpeter said:
Watts are rarely a useful figure of merit, and often misleading. Too many
can be a huge red flag for inefficient motor with excessive moving mass,
and a sloppy magnetic gap.

You have already observed how 25W is not necessarily louder than 10W.
Same goes for 4ohm vs 8ohm, 4 not necessarily louder w. the same amp,
sometimes just makes an amp work twice as hard for the same result.

All trustworthy specs are important toward identifying your best choice.
If I had to dumb down a choice to one figure of merit only, have to say
go by magnet type and weight. Not counting shielding or reverse donut
on back, and always favoring Neodymium.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

These speakers sit like 6 inches from the monitor. Should I worry about shielding? I am using these drivers: Fountek FR89EX 3" Full Range - 4 ohm
 
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#45
Hi,

IMHO speaker wire gauge is really off the radar and it won't matter
running to the booster amplifier. Good connections count the most.

rgds, sreten.

Your new drivers are inherently shielded, due to the magnet structure.
 
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#46
Even though its just regular stranded hookup wire, 26AWG/28AWG, 10-15 years old, just leave it as is?

I have no problem leaving it as is, I'd rather do that, but I obviously want to do everything I can to get it setup the right way once and for all.
 
#47
That one actually looks one serious speaker for its size.
Innefficient, but for worthy cause of underhung coil and large XMAX.
You may need some bass boost to fully utilize that 5mm underhang.
If so, throwing a bigger amp with eq at it might not be a waste.

Radial Neodymium is self shielding. With 14mm gap height, it just
about has to be radial. I'm not sure why its so wide, or why there
is a band around it? Peek under that band just to be sure it isn't
made donut style with an exposed edge.
 
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#48
sreten said:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-906VL...5X4K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1313108361&sr=8-3

Hi, well the spec of the above is nonsense, as it is for most car amps, rgds, sreten.

Nevertheless the 25W drivers here will easily take 100W midrange peaks, but not bass.
Click to expand...



I bought this amp installed it and it sounds great. Problem solved. Thanks everyone.

BUT - I have one issue that must be figured out: The speakers cut in and out seemingly random during gameplay. When its cutting the LEDS on the amp itself are fluctuating/going on and off and then it will resume. Sometimes it lasts for a minute or two, other times its just a little blip. The amp requires 12V and I've got 12.31 running into it under load.

I still have the stock speakers hooked up (just haven't installed the new ones yet) and those are only 10W.. do you guys think when I install the new nicer speakers it wont cut in and out? In other words, is it because of the low watts?

All connections have been tested, they are all solid and soldered, its not the connections.
 
#49
Hi,

Your Jamma board might be struggling to supply the current.

If it has (very likely) a 12V regulator chip, investigate increasing heatsinking.
A decent size 16V electrolytic across the amp power input might help.

(http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-3300uF-...ultDomain_0&hash=item3a68d50920#ht_1319wt_936)

Possibly use the other two to uprate the Jamma board.

If it is a current issue (amp should work happily on 13.8V) then using the
less efficient speakers will draw more current. The NS3's are your best
bet IMO with the port detuned or sealed off/bunged up.

If the problem is worse with the NS3's I'd say its probably regulator thermal
shutdown. Its your call on what speakers to use in the end though.

Does the booster actually specify RMS output ? (not max or peak etc.)

rgds, sreten.

RS-50-12, Mean Well RS-50-12
PS-65-12, Mean Well PS-65-12
 
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