I've got a universal JAMMA arcade cabinet. The stock speakers are terrible. I'm looking to replace the driver in the stock speaker cases with a new quality one.
Here are the specs of the stocks speakers:
I'm a quick learner and very handy with electronics, but I don't know too much about speakers. So my question is this:
If my goal is to upgrade these drivers with a new much better and exceptional driver, should I simply find another 3" 10-25W 4 OHM Passive Driver and thats that? Or should I be looking into different ohms, installing an amp in them etc.
What is the best type of driver to get? Full Range? I was looking at these: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/fountek-fr89ex-3-full-range-4-ohm/
These will be used primarily for MONO but can be switched to STEREO too if that makes any difference.
Any help is much appreciated!
Here are the specs of the stocks speakers:
I'm a quick learner and very handy with electronics, but I don't know too much about speakers. So my question is this:
If my goal is to upgrade these drivers with a new much better and exceptional driver, should I simply find another 3" 10-25W 4 OHM Passive Driver and thats that? Or should I be looking into different ohms, installing an amp in them etc.
What is the best type of driver to get? Full Range? I was looking at these: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/fountek-fr89ex-3-full-range-4-ohm/
These will be used primarily for MONO but can be switched to STEREO too if that makes any difference.
Any help is much appreciated!
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Tomorrow you're still under moderation so your posts may take a little while to show up, we try to be quick approving moderated posts when we're about..And welcome to the forum!
And welcome to the forum!
Ah, was wondering why my post didn't show up.
Thanks!
You should get speakers of the same ohms , a more sensitive speaker will increase the output volume , every 3db increase of speaker sensitivity doubles the output volume so if these speakers are old crappy ones they probably have a lower sensitity so newer better quality ones will probably increase the volume quite a lot .....
Cheers
Cheers
I'm hoping I can find a pair that will hold up exceptionally on their own since they will be the only speaker in use (no tweeter or woofer, just a single driver, on each for Left and Right).
Any advice or tips are welcome!
Any advice or tips are welcome!
The Fountek has a flatter response and wider bandwidth than the Dayton but also costs twice as much. I'd say either choice would be a huge improvement.
What game(s) does the machine have?
What game(s) does the machine have?
Member
Joined 2009
You have a big selection, most 3" and some 4" fullranges will do well. Since you are not going to be constructing filters a flat frequency response is essential. If the old speakers had a filter you should remove it and connect the new driver straight to the amp. 8ohm drivers will probably work but may not be as loud.
The best mod you may do is the enclosure. I recommend you download the FREE software WinISD. It calculates the bass output for a given driver and enclosure size. If you don't plan on changing the enclose it can simulate the kind of bass you may get from different drivers. You can increase the bass output by adding an air port (which is essentially a pipe).
The fountek is a great driver but on the expensive side. If I were you I would try to find a design and copy it. That might require building a filter which is not that hard actually.
The best mod you may do is the enclosure. I recommend you download the FREE software WinISD. It calculates the bass output for a given driver and enclosure size. If you don't plan on changing the enclose it can simulate the kind of bass you may get from different drivers. You can increase the bass output by adding an air port (which is essentially a pipe).
The fountek is a great driver but on the expensive side. If I were you I would try to find a design and copy it. That might require building a filter which is not that hard actually.
For sure. Sounds like the Fountek is where its at. I am willing to spend up to $200 on this setup so I don't mind that they are 2x as much.
Its a universal cab so I can play any JAMMA games period. I mainly play shmups and fighters. But I've got all sorts of stuff.
Thanks for the tips man, I appreciate it. I'll look into that software.
I added some pictures of the driver and speaker enclosure so you can see what I've got to work with.
Let me know what you think about it.
As of now, my plans are to pick up two of those Founteks and install them and thats it. Anything else important I should do? Stuffing? Anything else in there? What I've got is literally the enclosure, drivers and wires. There is nothing else in there.
I appreciate all the tips guys. This is making me want to learn a lot more about building speakers.
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Member
Joined 2009
OK, this is what you need to do.
- Get WinISD.
- Pick a bunch of drivers based on flatness of the FR and dimensions.
- Measure the enclosure volume and the port size and length.
- Input the parameters of drivers into WinISD and simulate for your enclosure size and port.
The port pipe is there to create an acoustic filter that passes through bass. The idea is that small drivers need bass reinforcement. The port bass adds to the bass already emanating from the driver. The size and length of the port pipe control the frequency. You usually want to tune the port to take over right after the dip in the low frequency. That dip is determined by the driver's characteristics and the box size. WinISD will help you find out where that is in your case and the dimensions of the appropriate port.
With your budget however, it might be more practical to just buy the whole speaker.
- Get WinISD.
- Pick a bunch of drivers based on flatness of the FR and dimensions.
- Measure the enclosure volume and the port size and length.
- Input the parameters of drivers into WinISD and simulate for your enclosure size and port.
The port pipe is there to create an acoustic filter that passes through bass. The idea is that small drivers need bass reinforcement. The port bass adds to the bass already emanating from the driver. The size and length of the port pipe control the frequency. You usually want to tune the port to take over right after the dip in the low frequency. That dip is determined by the driver's characteristics and the box size. WinISD will help you find out where that is in your case and the dimensions of the appropriate port.
With your budget however, it might be more practical to just buy the whole speaker.
Thanks again for the reply.
Trouble is, I don't have a PC, only a Mac. No access to PCs either. So I can't use WinISD.
The enclosure mounts in the cabinent with brackets in a very specific way, so I either have to use the stock enclosure or build enclosures from scratch as they pretty much have to be identical in their dimensions. I was hoping to just use the stock one.
Is there anything bad about just picking up those Fountek without using WinISD? Should I pick up anything else or do you think I should be good with just swapping the drivers?
Trouble is, I don't have a PC, only a Mac. No access to PCs either. So I can't use WinISD.
The enclosure mounts in the cabinent with brackets in a very specific way, so I either have to use the stock enclosure or build enclosures from scratch as they pretty much have to be identical in their dimensions. I was hoping to just use the stock one.
Is there anything bad about just picking up those Fountek without using WinISD? Should I pick up anything else or do you think I should be good with just swapping the drivers?
Don't know what measurement would be better, internal diameter of the port or external so I put down both:
PORT DIMENSIONS:
INTERNAL PORT DIAMETER 22.5 MM (.880 inches)
EXTERNAL PORT DIAMETER 25.9 MM (1.018 inches)
PORT LENGTH 54.5 MM (2.150 inches)
PORT DIMENSIONS:
INTERNAL PORT DIAMETER 22.5 MM (.880 inches)
EXTERNAL PORT DIAMETER 25.9 MM (1.018 inches)
PORT LENGTH 54.5 MM (2.150 inches)
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Ok it looks like that port/enclosure is tuned for about 120Hz which isn't ideal for the Founteks. I didn't consider the Daytons because they have a pretty wild high frequency response.
If you get the Founteks, listen to them with the ports open and again with something airtight stuffed into them. I'm thinking it should sound more natural if they are sealed.
Also it probably wouldn't hurt to add some kind of dampening to the cabinets. Something you can apply to the interior walls.
If you get the Founteks, listen to them with the ports open and again with something airtight stuffed into them. I'm thinking it should sound more natural if they are sealed.
Also it probably wouldn't hurt to add some kind of dampening to the cabinets. Something you can apply to the interior walls.
For sure. Thanks for looking into that.
So try to seal off the entire port completely? From the inside so its completely air tight or just stuff it with some of the wool stuffing?
When you say dampen the walls, should I use some foam adhesive or just stuff the entire inside with wool stuffing?
You think I should just try to find some drivers that are more ideal for my 120Hz port? Or who cares?
So try to seal off the entire port completely? From the inside so its completely air tight or just stuff it with some of the wool stuffing?
When you say dampen the walls, should I use some foam adhesive or just stuff the entire inside with wool stuffing?
You think I should just try to find some drivers that are more ideal for my 120Hz port? Or who cares?
You'd want to seal the port off completely. Like glue something to the end of it, inside the cabinet.
Think of it like this though:
With the port: It's like having a bass boost effect
Without: Less low end but more natural low frequency roll off
This is why I say you should listen first. You should prefer one or the other.
I would use this to pad all the internal sides except for the front. Since its a plastic enclosure you should be able to use an adhesive to glue them on.
If you used WinISD you could go through a bunch of speakers like boris81 said and find the best one. I actually looked at a couple and the Fountek seems like a good choice overall.
Think of it like this though:
With the port: It's like having a bass boost effect
Without: Less low end but more natural low frequency roll off
This is why I say you should listen first. You should prefer one or the other.
I would use this to pad all the internal sides except for the front. Since its a plastic enclosure you should be able to use an adhesive to glue them on.
If you used WinISD you could go through a bunch of speakers like boris81 said and find the best one. I actually looked at a couple and the Fountek seems like a good choice overall.
For sure. I think I'll end up liking the natural low frequency roll off, I hate shitty low end. I'm gonna order the Founteks, some of that padding you linked to. I'll give it a shot as soon as it arrives. Thanks for all the help guys.
Hi,
FWIW whilst the Founteks are great the driver with the best low end
is the Aura NS3, and there are some on sale at madisound, best bet.
Horses for courses, and the far cheaper NS3's suit this application better.
rgds, sreten.
http://www.zaphaudio.com/smalltest/
FWIW whilst the Founteks are great the driver with the best low end
is the Aura NS3, and there are some on sale at madisound, best bet.
Horses for courses, and the far cheaper NS3's suit this application better.
rgds, sreten.
http://www.zaphaudio.com/smalltest/
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Why are they better suited? How much better? Could you elaborate?
I am not really worried about the low end to be honest, I really hate it when the low end over powers the rest even slightly. I like I nice clear crisp full rounded sound.
I am not really worried about the low end to be honest, I really hate it when the low end over powers the rest even slightly. I like I nice clear crisp full rounded sound.
Ah. Thanks for that link. The Founteks still seem better overall than the NS3s but I would be interested in trying them.
Here is the thing: every single arcade motherboard has its own audio amp, so there is a variable there. That and they are no doubt very limited and probably on the lower end quality wise. Should that factor into my decision with picking the correct driver? As in if one of these drivers requires very specific amp/power I wonder...
Here is the thing: every single arcade motherboard has its own audio amp, so there is a variable there. That and they are no doubt very limited and probably on the lower end quality wise. Should that factor into my decision with picking the correct driver? As in if one of these drivers requires very specific amp/power I wonder...
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