Hi,
No its the other way round, small speakers need to cope with bass,
not turn it to mud, which many do. IMO you want the best option
to keep the bass clean up to the inevitably limited volume levels.
IMO, unless very low power is involved, the NS3's are your best bet.
The Founteks IMO suit very low power, or miles better, c/o'd low
to a helper woofer, where they are by far a much better choice.
But if its very low power, the extra efficiency of the Founteks helps.
Still think though the on sale NS3's will be better and cheaper.
The Founteks are better overall IMO, but not for this application IMO.
rgds, sreten.
No its the other way round, small speakers need to cope with bass,
not turn it to mud, which many do. IMO you want the best option
to keep the bass clean up to the inevitably limited volume levels.
IMO, unless very low power is involved, the NS3's are your best bet.
The Founteks IMO suit very low power, or miles better, c/o'd low
to a helper woofer, where they are by far a much better choice.
But if its very low power, the extra efficiency of the Founteks helps.
Still think though the on sale NS3's will be better and cheaper.
The Founteks are better overall IMO, but not for this application IMO.
rgds, sreten.
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Gotchya. Good to know. I think I'll just order them both and try em since the NS3s are so cheap.
Which NS3 should I get? There are 7 different variations listed on their site:
Also, with the NS3s, do you think I should cover up the port hole from inside and dampen all the walls except the front, just like I was gonna do with the Founteks?
Which NS3 should I get? There are 7 different variations listed on their site:
Also, with the NS3s, do you think I should cover up the port hole from inside and dampen all the walls except the front, just like I was gonna do with the Founteks?
Hi,
IMO go for the black or silver 4ohm version of the NS3-193.
IMO choose one driver or the other, but don't buy both.
IMO line the port with ~ 6mm thick open cell foam to detune it.
(An oblong, port length x 3 times diameter will fold into there.)
This is more a power handling alignment than anything else.
IMO simply stuff the cabinets with BAF or similar, not foam lining.
rgds, sreten.
IMO go for the black or silver 4ohm version of the NS3-193.
IMO choose one driver or the other, but don't buy both.
IMO line the port with ~ 6mm thick open cell foam to detune it.
(An oblong, port length x 3 times diameter will fold into there.)
This is more a power handling alignment than anything else.
IMO simply stuff the cabinets with BAF or similar, not foam lining.
rgds, sreten.
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I already bought the Founteks, so too late 😉. I don't mind spending an extra $25 to try them so I'll just order those too and compare and contrast them both.
Where can I get the 6mm thick open cell foam? I don't see any on madisound.com. What is BAF stuffing and where can I get some?
Where can I get the 6mm thick open cell foam? I don't see any on madisound.com. What is BAF stuffing and where can I get some?
@sreten: That's a good point on the port detuning. My big pair of EV Sentry 500 monitors have these large rubber pucks I can stuff into the ports depending on my room/location or whatever. I wasn't sure what the best method of "eliminating" the port would be in this case.
Also why not foam lining? That would surely help deaden those thin plastic walls, no?
Also why not foam lining? That would surely help deaden those thin plastic walls, no?
Can anyone offer some clarity on what exactly the best way to:
- Detune the port or seal it, whatever is better
- Line inside with foam
- Stuff enclosure with stuffing
I mean, there is of course the common sense approach, but I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly 🙂
This is what I've got coming in the mail tomorrow:
Foam Sheet 27"x 42"x 5/8"
Foam Tape 1/2" x 1/8"
Acousta-Stuf 1lb
x2 Fountek FR89EX Full Range - 4 ohm
x2 Aurasound Wide Range - 4 ohm
- Detune the port or seal it, whatever is better
- Line inside with foam
- Stuff enclosure with stuffing
I mean, there is of course the common sense approach, but I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly 🙂
This is what I've got coming in the mail tomorrow:
Foam Sheet 27"x 42"x 5/8"
Foam Tape 1/2" x 1/8"
Acousta-Stuf 1lb
x2 Fountek FR89EX Full Range - 4 ohm
x2 Aurasound Wide Range - 4 ohm
Hi,
If you've got it, use it. Line the boxes with foam and then lightly stuff.
(The foam will have little effect regarding box wall resonances.)
You need some open cell foam around 6mm thick to detune the ports.
(An oblong, port length x 3 times diameter will fold into there.)
rgds, sreten.
If you've got it, use it. Line the boxes with foam and then lightly stuff.
(The foam will have little effect regarding box wall resonances.)
You need some open cell foam around 6mm thick to detune the ports.
(An oblong, port length x 3 times diameter will fold into there.)
rgds, sreten.
When you say:
"An oblong, port length x 3 times diameter will fold into there."
So I need a peice of open cell foam, 6mm wide port length x3 (2.1 x 3 = 6.3) and just fold it and stuff it in there?
Anybody know if you can find something like this locally at any big box stores perhaps? Or is it something too specific you'll need to order online?
Thanks for all your help guys. Can't wait to get working on this in a few hours.
"An oblong, port length x 3 times diameter will fold into there."
So I need a peice of open cell foam, 6mm wide port length x3 (2.1 x 3 = 6.3) and just fold it and stuff it in there?
Anybody know if you can find something like this locally at any big box stores perhaps? Or is it something too specific you'll need to order online?
Thanks for all your help guys. Can't wait to get working on this in a few hours.
Hi,
~ 6mm thick, a piece around 3" wide x port length folded into a tube and inserted.
A gift shop or similar should have something like that to use for packing.
Possibly a place that sells foam for uphostlery also, used as padding.
rgds, sreten.
~ 6mm thick, a piece around 3" wide x port length folded into a tube and inserted.
A gift shop or similar should have something like that to use for packing.
Possibly a place that sells foam for uphostlery also, used as padding.
rgds, sreten.
So I just tried it out with both sets of drivers in my cabinet and they still sound equally as shitty as the old stock ones.
I tried it with foam padding, with stuffing, with port detuned and all without. All still sounds like crap. 🙁
The stock drivers are 10W and these new ones are 20-25W.
I'm thinking it has to be the lack of a quality amp. Like I noted before, these arcade cabs don't have a dedicated audio amp. Its just pulling it directly from whatever game pcb is plugged in.
What do you guys think? So many people have run into deads ends doing this, I really want to figure it out!
Is there any hifi or high quality amp for arcade cabs? Or is there an amp I could rig up to work? Its simply a JAMMA + and - that is going directly to the speakers.. so I can pull those signals and do whatever with them. The proper power isn't a problem either.
Has anyone messed around with this kind of thing before?
Is it as simple as just getting a good amp and installing it correctly, maybe like this one
I tried it with foam padding, with stuffing, with port detuned and all without. All still sounds like crap. 🙁
The stock drivers are 10W and these new ones are 20-25W.
I'm thinking it has to be the lack of a quality amp. Like I noted before, these arcade cabs don't have a dedicated audio amp. Its just pulling it directly from whatever game pcb is plugged in.
What do you guys think? So many people have run into deads ends doing this, I really want to figure it out!
Is there any hifi or high quality amp for arcade cabs? Or is there an amp I could rig up to work? Its simply a JAMMA + and - that is going directly to the speakers.. so I can pull those signals and do whatever with them. The proper power isn't a problem either.
Has anyone messed around with this kind of thing before?
Is it as simple as just getting a good amp and installing it correctly, maybe like this one
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Ideally, I would be able to install this stuff directly in the speaker enclosures themselves. The entire point of this was to avoid having to hack up wires and rig stuff up. If I can install little amp(s) in the enclosures themselves (if there is anything out there that I can buy or build) that would be the ideal.
I was looking at something like this and thisbut I'm sure there is one out there that would fit what I'm trying to do the best, don't know if its this one. Any ideas?
The second amp I linked to is 25W per channel which is the Nomanial power handling spec on the drivers I am using:
I was looking at something like this and thisbut I'm sure there is one out there that would fit what I'm trying to do the best, don't know if its this one. Any ideas?
The second amp I linked to is 25W per channel which is the Nomanial power handling spec on the drivers I am using:
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Hi,
Doing a bit of research on Jamma it appears you have 12V DC for sound.
Probably your easiest bet is a stereo car audio booster
amplifier if your supply can provide the current for it.
They are designed to connect to the speaker outs of
low power head units and basically wack up the juice.
rgds, sreten.
Doing a bit of research on Jamma it appears you have 12V DC for sound.
Probably your easiest bet is a stereo car audio booster
amplifier if your supply can provide the current for it.
They are designed to connect to the speaker outs of
low power head units and basically wack up the juice.
rgds, sreten.
Thanks for looking into that, I appreciate it.
JAMMA has:
+5v
+12v
-5v
So you think a Stereo Car Audio Booster is the definitely the best option, even versus installing a 2x25W channel amp like this one?
For Stereo Car Audio Boosters, they are all massive amounts of watts and much larger than what I would like to use.
What is the difference between the two? Isn't the one I linked to doing the exact same thing?
Don't I need to find an amp that fits the specs of my speakers specifically?
Which are:
Sorry for all the questions man! I'm learning, I'm learning! 🙂
JAMMA has:
+5v
+12v
-5v
So you think a Stereo Car Audio Booster is the definitely the best option, even versus installing a 2x25W channel amp like this one?
For Stereo Car Audio Boosters, they are all massive amounts of watts and much larger than what I would like to use.
What is the difference between the two? Isn't the one I linked to doing the exact same thing?
Don't I need to find an amp that fits the specs of my speakers specifically?
Which are:
Sorry for all the questions man! I'm learning, I'm learning! 🙂
When you say they sound horrible...is the sound really distorted? Are they breaking up at high volume? Do they sound better at low volume or is it all bad? Describe it if you can.
The thing is, I'm wondering if boosting the available power will improve quality. Maybe the sound from the games is just really bad. Maybe its the output amps. The best thing you could do to improve it is find the source of the signal and feed it into a amp like one that you linked to, then feed the speakers from it. (But you can't since it comes straight from the game...) Even then, like I said, the games might just be processing really low quality audio.
Do you know of anyone who has successfully improved the sound output from arcades like this?
I'm going to do a little research on this.
The thing is, I'm wondering if boosting the available power will improve quality. Maybe the sound from the games is just really bad. Maybe its the output amps. The best thing you could do to improve it is find the source of the signal and feed it into a amp like one that you linked to, then feed the speakers from it. (But you can't since it comes straight from the game...) Even then, like I said, the games might just be processing really low quality audio.
Do you know of anyone who has successfully improved the sound output from arcades like this?
I'm going to do a little research on this.
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An arcade cabinet is big enough, and leaky enough, to use open baffle speakers
with Qts around 0.7 . Little speakers in little vented or sealed boxes will neither
go low enough to satisfy, nor be efficient.
Full range is probably not desirable, you are going to hear a lot of PWM crud...
Get something of 4-6 inches diameter, that rolls off at 4 or 5K on the high end.
I think 4 ohm is asking for problems if you might switch boards and/or MAME
that cab at some later time. 8 works with everything...
You are close enough to a real monitor that magnetic shielding is a must.
Fortunately most Neodymium magnet structures are radial, and cancel in
the large field. There is no exposed edge of thick donut to worry about.
with Qts around 0.7 . Little speakers in little vented or sealed boxes will neither
go low enough to satisfy, nor be efficient.
Full range is probably not desirable, you are going to hear a lot of PWM crud...
Get something of 4-6 inches diameter, that rolls off at 4 or 5K on the high end.
I think 4 ohm is asking for problems if you might switch boards and/or MAME
that cab at some later time. 8 works with everything...
You are close enough to a real monitor that magnetic shielding is a must.
Fortunately most Neodymium magnet structures are radial, and cancel in
the large field. There is no exposed edge of thick donut to worry about.
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They wouldn't go very loud. They were quieter than the stock speakers. I turned the volume on the PCB up all the way. It just sounded equally as bad as the stock ones. Tinny, hollow, no rounded full sound.
I don't think the sound from the game is bad. This is a newer game released in 2003 that I was testing it with.
Well, I have a Super Gun (allows you to play arcade games on your TV) and I plugged the game into my TV with my good sound system and it sounds great. So that proves that it can sound good.
I'm trying to find drivers that will fit in the stock enclosure. I already did this. I don't want 4"-6" as then I'll have to build custom boxes and custom mounting and it will be more pain than its worth.
Also, I bought 4ohm as that is what is in the cab stock.. just trying to follow what they've got. The difference is the NOM WATTS. The stock ones are 10W and the new ones are 25W. So I am assuming I need an amp. Or if it is possible, find nice drivers that are 10W. Make sense?
If you had say a 1k and 10k resistor lying around, you could put them in series across the output of the speaker +/- terminals (from the game pcb), then take the output across the 1kohm and run it to your good stereo. This way you could amplify the signal and determine if the signal is rotten.
This is guessing the audio amp runs off the 12V supply, and will provide a worst case maximum of 12V to the speaker output. It most definitely doesn't, but to be on the safe side...anyone, feel free to shoot down my thoughts.
Edit: The SuperGun takes the amplified output from the game and turns it into a live-level signal that you can hook up to an external amp?
Edit x2: All right well that seems to be it. From what I've read I suppose you just need to boost the signal. Sreten recommended a car audio booster which is this. It's probably the simplest solution.
This is guessing the audio amp runs off the 12V supply, and will provide a worst case maximum of 12V to the speaker output. It most definitely doesn't, but to be on the safe side...anyone, feel free to shoot down my thoughts.
Edit: The SuperGun takes the amplified output from the game and turns it into a live-level signal that you can hook up to an external amp?
Edit x2: All right well that seems to be it. From what I've read I suppose you just need to boost the signal. Sreten recommended a car audio booster which is this. It's probably the simplest solution.
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