Here are the Sowter 3575C and Cinemag CMLI-15 transformer's overlapped -- Pin 7 of the Cinemag connects to a shield which isn't present on the Sowter, and Pin 2 connects to an optional second shield.
Unless there are any corrections, I am going with this layout --
Unless there are any corrections, I am going with this layout --
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
looks good to me as always nice work. Are you going to provide any parts for it, particularly the pc mounted tube sockets? If not let me know where I can locate them. Payed for transformer time to start scrounging for parts.
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
Jack:
I can help look at the board, if you'd like... it would handy if the entire board was at that resolution, but it's understandable if you don't want to post it to protect SY's wishes. Feel free to e-mail me the file if you'd like another pair of eyes on it.
I can help look at the board, if you'd like... it would handy if the entire board was at that resolution, but it's understandable if you don't want to post it to protect SY's wishes. Feel free to e-mail me the file if you'd like another pair of eyes on it.
I just sent the files to the board house before dinner -- I'm keeping my fingers crossed as this is the first time I have used them.
I inverted the colors, which may make it a bit more readable -- I've allowed for WIMA 0.47u/400V and Vishay 0.47u/630V on the output side.
Hopefully, the 4 slots allow the boards to be snapped apart if needs be (or you can use metal shears to separate). I have allowed the use of Molex 0.100" headers and cables to attach the potentiometers, etc.
I think it takes 10 days:
I inverted the colors, which may make it a bit more readable -- I've allowed for WIMA 0.47u/400V and Vishay 0.47u/630V on the output side.
Hopefully, the 4 slots allow the boards to be snapped apart if needs be (or you can use metal shears to separate). I have allowed the use of Molex 0.100" headers and cables to attach the potentiometers, etc.
I think it takes 10 days:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
My "wishes" are to get my hands on one of these boards! 😀
Nothing to protect, I do this stuff for fun.
Nothing to protect, I do this stuff for fun.
SY said:My "wishes" are to get my hands on one of these boards! 😀
Nothing to protect, I do this stuff for fun.
Guiness said:Jack,
what is the process to get on the "list" for one of these bad boys?
Let's see how they work first. I will get rid of them at cost.
I'm going to mount my transformers on spacers so that they can be removed easily (if necessary). There are no traces for the heaters, you'll have to hard wire them. I did put in a couple of vias for the bypass on the 6SN7.
Anyone want to comment on the applicability of the 12V version of the 6SN7 -- j'ai beaucoup de ces animaux.
Hi Jack,
For the breakaway slots it is best to have the two slots closest to the edges of the board actually exit the edges of the board. It produces a much cleaner result on the corners and the cleanup of the edge is quick and easy.
The board house may get in touch and suggest this or they may go ahead and set it up this way anyway.
Graeme
For the breakaway slots it is best to have the two slots closest to the edges of the board actually exit the edges of the board. It produces a much cleaner result on the corners and the cleanup of the edge is quick and easy.
The board house may get in touch and suggest this or they may go ahead and set it up this way anyway.
Graeme
gl said:Hi Jack,
For the breakaway slots it is best to have the two slots closest to the edges of the board actually exit the edges of the board. It produces a much cleaner result on the corners and the cleanup of the edge is quick and easy.
The board house may get in touch and suggest this or they may go ahead and set it up this way anyway.
Graeme
I can mill them here to bring the slot out into the open.
the board house had a couple of questions which I guess are resolved so we'll see. I have gotten all my parts and transformers and am anxious to get going. this is the first time I am using a board house outside the US.
I just placed my cinemag order with the group buy... ordered the PCB version in hopes the Jack would graciously allow me to purchase a PCB... so i am anxious as well ... 😉
Thanks for the update.
Ryan
Thanks for the update.
Ryan
Need for help
Hello everybody,
unfortunately I did not manage to find a copy of the article up to know. There seems to be not reasonable possibility to get a AX subscription here in europe. Could someone help me with an unofficial copy of the ImPasse article.
Thaks
Zelter
Hello everybody,
unfortunately I did not manage to find a copy of the article up to know. There seems to be not reasonable possibility to get a AX subscription here in europe. Could someone help me with an unofficial copy of the ImPasse article.
Thaks
Zelter
You can order a single copy of the article (Feb, 2009) directly from AudioXpress
Try e-mailing custserv AT audioXpress.com (fix e-mail addy appropriately) or Sharon LeClair
sharon AT audioXpress.com
I ordered a single copy for $7 (including shipping in the U.S.)
Ryan
Try e-mailing custserv AT audioXpress.com (fix e-mail addy appropriately) or Sharon LeClair
sharon AT audioXpress.com
I ordered a single copy for $7 (including shipping in the U.S.)
Ryan
Solder fillet looks a little light on Pin 9 of the 9 Pin socket. 🙂
R25 looks a little bent too!
When did you say the GB was?
Anthony
R25 looks a little bent too!
When did you say the GB was?
Anthony
Including shipping to the US, they cost me $7.08 each -- that takes into account a free board for SY. I do have to recapture the PayPal fees and shipping (Priority), so I figure $12.55. Outside the US there's a fee on FX and priority Mail is $12.30.
I used the wrong pinout for the DN2540N5 -- so the device has to be flipped and manipulated a bit. Looks like a pair of Irish step-dancers:
If anyone wants, I will include 4 devices soldered in correctly, with heat shrink AND the correct R5 for 8mA. It only takes a minute or two to get it right -- I have used 2k2 in parallel with 300R (=264R) and one channel is 7.98 mA, the other 7.96mA. PM me if this is what you want.
The octal tube socket fits fine but some octals may need to have their pins bent a bit to fit.
I have yet to test the critter -- I just got done soldering them up.
The Sowter transformers fit just fine. I figured the spacing from their engineering drawing. I would expect the Cinemag's to work the same.
I used the wrong pinout for the DN2540N5 -- so the device has to be flipped and manipulated a bit. Looks like a pair of Irish step-dancers:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If anyone wants, I will include 4 devices soldered in correctly, with heat shrink AND the correct R5 for 8mA. It only takes a minute or two to get it right -- I have used 2k2 in parallel with 300R (=264R) and one channel is 7.98 mA, the other 7.96mA. PM me if this is what you want.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The octal tube socket fits fine but some octals may need to have their pins bent a bit to fit.
I have yet to test the critter -- I just got done soldering them up.
The Sowter transformers fit just fine. I figured the spacing from their engineering drawing. I would expect the Cinemag's to work the same.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- ImPasse Preamplifier