Hello Frobek,.... good job with IcePower 50asx2 amplifier solution !!! ....I have a doubt and I need your help, now I have another brick on the bench......haha......my Icepower 50asx2 have the same symtom, I have already removed the silicon and I have discovered the resistors two of 62K (one it's ok other is broken) but the others that you say as resistors it don't have code and color is blue, one of these measures 5K and other is open..... but seems to be both is a capacitors ....really are resistors smd 5K ???......Thanks in advance.
Look at my photo, these are resistors 🙂 :
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rzF9jNcLehqFZF7f4CsKsyFq9lb_jGMD
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rzF9jNcLehqFZF7f4CsKsyFq9lb_jGMD
Ok, thanks !!, I have other quiestion...., do you know if a IcePower 50asx2 stereo config it's possible convert to BTL config changing only the bridge W401 to W400 or requires some other changes ???.........Thanks in advance.
Hello Frobek......... Do you know if a IcePower 50asx2 stereo config module it's possible convert to BTL config (mono) changing only the bridge W401 to W400 or requires some other changes ???.........Thanks in advance.
I have three of these modules and all have been working fine for years. I know there are a lot of what we might call clones out there, and these apparently have a much higher failure rate than the real ones.
Yes, but you do have to have a bridge converter to feed the two inputs with anti-phase signals. I did this for my bass practice combo amp. I have read on here that there is a resistor change that does make the SE a BTL, but I have no problem just bridging the amp.
Hello Chienmort, sure !! This change is for my Rumble 200 Fender bass combo, this amp have a preamp with output anti-phase signals for connection to ICE BTL amp, now I have done the bridge connection from SE to BTL and works fine....Thanks !!!
Hello Frobek, I have recently received my new resistors 0603 62K/5K pack and I have done the replacement broken resistors, now ICE Power Amp works fine again !!..Thanks for share the solution !!!, my amp is on de road again !!!🙂
I know this is a old post, but was wondering if this same thing is my issue with a icpower1200as2? I get the same ON/OFF-standby switching on my module. Any suggestions? I think I will try my variac and see if this stops when the voltage is lowered. Thanks
@frobek
I see that you have solved the issue with the 50ASX2 amp, But I have the 1200as2 and having the same issue. I tried plugging it into my Variac and set the voltage around 92V, and it works great. But when the voltage is higher, it continues to switch ON-Standby modes. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
I see that you have solved the issue with the 50ASX2 amp, But I have the 1200as2 and having the same issue. I tried plugging it into my Variac and set the voltage around 92V, and it works great. But when the voltage is higher, it continues to switch ON-Standby modes. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
Now this topic is REALLY old….
I can’t locate ICC1…
I’ve scraped off the glue to reveal the resistors, but don’t know which pin 1 & pin 2 to check the +1.85 & -1.85V as mentioned above by frobek. I don’t want to attempt to replace those resistors if they’re not the problem. (How the heck do you solder those teeny things anyway?)
I can’t locate ICC1…
I’ve scraped off the glue to reveal the resistors, but don’t know which pin 1 & pin 2 to check the +1.85 & -1.85V as mentioned above by frobek. I don’t want to attempt to replace those resistors if they’re not the problem. (How the heck do you solder those teeny things anyway?)
Hi Muzzlitebeer, I'm also new on this forum but I repaired one of these recently. I have a spare Icepower 50ASX2 at work but not in front of me -- could you take a couple of close-up shots of the board to jog the old memory?
What's the fault you have?
What's the fault you have?
Picture of my board attached.
BTW, I finally identified which component is ICC1
The fault: When I turned my amp on, (Gallien-Krueger MB115ii) had had a purple LED ring around the power button (indicating an under/over voltage or overheating) and no sound.
A tech savvy friend suggested I try putting the PSU board into another identical amp carcass (which had no PSU board at all) to confirm the problem was with the PSU, not the preamp.
The second amp, the ring went red and stayed red.
When I put it back in the original amp, the LED ring no longer turned purple, but stayed red.
BTW, I finally identified which component is ICC1
The fault: When I turned my amp on, (Gallien-Krueger MB115ii) had had a purple LED ring around the power button (indicating an under/over voltage or overheating) and no sound.
A tech savvy friend suggested I try putting the PSU board into another identical amp carcass (which had no PSU board at all) to confirm the problem was with the PSU, not the preamp.
The second amp, the ring went red and stayed red.
When I put it back in the original amp, the LED ring no longer turned purple, but stayed red.
Attachments
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I’m having a terrible, unsatisfying experience trying to solder these teeny SMD resistors on. (I’ve never had the pleasure)
Looking at frobek’s photo, it looks like the solder is bridging the pads between the 62K & 5k resistors. TBH, I can’t see any other way to solder them on without the worlds smallest soldering tip…
Looking at frobek’s photo, it looks like the solder is bridging the pads between the 62K & 5k resistors. TBH, I can’t see any other way to solder them on without the worlds smallest soldering tip…
Attachments
I wouldn't mess with any SMD resistors just yet! They are a pain, and in the unlikely scenario that one has gone bad, you'll probably need another tool which I'll get to in a second.
It turns out I had an IcePower 125ASX2 not a 50ASX2, but for me it was a transistor that went bad (and it was hidden under a heatsink that I didn't realise was a heatsink). On TR361, check all pairwise connections of pins 1, 2, 3. There should be no continuity or at least very high resistance. Pin 2 connects to the big ground pin. Repeat with the transistor next to it, and then with TR301 and the one next to that.
If any are reading a short circuit, that's your issue. I was very lucky to find a donor 125ASX2 board that was missing a few bits on eBay for quite cheap, so I swapped out the faulty transistor. Now the swapping itself is another story...
You'll have to ask yourself whether you want to up your soldering game! Because those things will not come off with an iron. You'll almost certainly need a hot air rework station. I got a KaiserTech Quick Rework Station for under £100 in the UK. I had to practice removing those transistors on the donor board and I did ruin one with too much heat applied for too long. Mr SolderFix has great videos on how to use them skillfully.
It turns out I had an IcePower 125ASX2 not a 50ASX2, but for me it was a transistor that went bad (and it was hidden under a heatsink that I didn't realise was a heatsink). On TR361, check all pairwise connections of pins 1, 2, 3. There should be no continuity or at least very high resistance. Pin 2 connects to the big ground pin. Repeat with the transistor next to it, and then with TR301 and the one next to that.
If any are reading a short circuit, that's your issue. I was very lucky to find a donor 125ASX2 board that was missing a few bits on eBay for quite cheap, so I swapped out the faulty transistor. Now the swapping itself is another story...
You'll have to ask yourself whether you want to up your soldering game! Because those things will not come off with an iron. You'll almost certainly need a hot air rework station. I got a KaiserTech Quick Rework Station for under £100 in the UK. I had to practice removing those transistors on the donor board and I did ruin one with too much heat applied for too long. Mr SolderFix has great videos on how to use them skillfully.
I’ve tested all of the transistors and they’re all good.
I got the SMD resistors off ok. It’s getting the bastards back on that’s the problem.
New soldering tips arriving tomorrow, as well as a much more powerful headband magnifier.
I’ll let you know how I get on.
I got the SMD resistors off ok. It’s getting the bastards back on that’s the problem.
New soldering tips arriving tomorrow, as well as a much more powerful headband magnifier.
I’ll let you know how I get on.
Apparently there are quite a few issues with these icepower amps! I really regret purchasing the 1200as2!!! Oh it worked good for a while, then poof! I tried to seek help as to what the issues may be, but to no avail. I still have the amp module collecting dust..lol I don't guess anyone could tell me what to check to figure out why it keeps going in standby mode? Just wish I would have going with the Purifi modules instead! 🙁
OK, so please do not flame me for posting this potential temporary fix for your 1200as2...
I have seen this "fix" posted online for old tube based equipment designed to work at 110vac modded to work at mains 120vac+ (mine can be as high as 127vac).
I put a series film cap on mains to amp and it dropped the mains voltage, acts like a series resistor (except no losses)....If I remember correctly, a 10uf 600v Film cap dropped mains 10-15vac on my ICEpower module. Now I beleive what happening is I am closing the phase angle of the mains voltage doing this, thus dropping the mains voltage, but never explained as to why this is a design no no...akin to rectifying the mains instead of using an isolation transformer (this no no I understand).
An electrical engineer at work told me "the Electric company is not gonna like that"....huh?
You may want to wait for someone far smarter than me to chime in before trying this.
I have seen this "fix" posted online for old tube based equipment designed to work at 110vac modded to work at mains 120vac+ (mine can be as high as 127vac).
I put a series film cap on mains to amp and it dropped the mains voltage, acts like a series resistor (except no losses)....If I remember correctly, a 10uf 600v Film cap dropped mains 10-15vac on my ICEpower module. Now I beleive what happening is I am closing the phase angle of the mains voltage doing this, thus dropping the mains voltage, but never explained as to why this is a design no no...akin to rectifying the mains instead of using an isolation transformer (this no no I understand).
An electrical engineer at work told me "the Electric company is not gonna like that"....huh?
You may want to wait for someone far smarter than me to chime in before trying this.