6 watts into that rig is 128dB. A bigger amp isn't going to make it go any lower as that's determined by the flare rate, and louder? Get a grip.BassAwdyO said:If I had such a reduculis bass horn I would surely drive it with a few hundred watts where the SPL is outrageous also. Whats the point in having 6watts going to so many 18"woofers. Even if they are using small amps and want low distortion they could probably get the same distortion out of a bigger amp at that low power. Plus extra extension both lower and louder.
But the peaks will still be distorted,I guess they like that.Originally posted by mike.e
That horn,is ridiculous. I first saw it years ago,and thought its amazing. Now I think its stupid
1) using so many 18"s is wasteful of money
And the whole project isn't? Figure out the construction costs and the drivers become small in proportion.quote:
2) using no feedback CDP etc and 1watt valves seems strange after all that effort for low distortion
The SUBWOOFER efficiency is 120dB/ 1 Watt/1 meter......The real maximum power fed to both subhorn measured with an oscilloscope at the highest musical peak roughly reaches 6 watts per channel. Most of the time the amp driving the circuit is going to be idling along at under a watt where the distortion of any decent 300B amp is going to be below audibility. ALL audio is in the end about personal preference, so maybe that combo is what he prefers.
Ok,ok so im a student with $30,000 loan,im abit frugal! I dont think it reaches 20hz,and if it does its due to good room gain.
Like you're actually going to be able to tell at 128dB. And with a decent 300BSE, it's going to be a couple of percent of low order stuff. I somehow doubt you've even heard one.mike.e said:
But the peaks will still be distorted,I guess they like that.
More importantly though there will be a much closer tonal match to the amps driving above the horn's passband.
ummm I think more power could definately make a horn go lower. Honestly If I had a horn that was too short to go down to the lowest frequency I desired I would put a LT on it and that simply requires more power, and more excursion. I doubt a single one of the 18" subs could be fully powered with 6 watts so I'm sure there is pleanty of excursion to spare. 128db is loud yes, but more headroom is always an advantage
I think they could benifit from more power. I wouldnt use anything less than 100watts
I think they could benifit from more power. I wouldnt use anything less than 100watts
100 watts into a 120dB sensitive horn? You must be either a masochist or a fool.BassAwdyO said:ummm I think more power could definately make a horn go lower. Honestly If I had a horn that was too short to go down to the lowest frequency I desired I would put a LT on it and that simply requires more power, and more excursion. I doubt a single one of the 18" subs could be fully powered with 6 watts so I'm sure there is pleanty of excursion to spare. 128db is loud yes, but more headroom is always an advantage
I think they could benifit from more power. I wouldnt use anything less than 100watts
Anyway, a horn that's too short has huge ripples in the frequency response.
When I first saw it I thought it was amazing too.
I still do.
The more I learn about audio, the more amazed I am.
Not by the "excess" but the engineering and synergy involved.
Why wouldn't it hit 20 Hz?
Did you even check out the flare rate/path length/throat/mouth?
And this isn't just "modeled" B.S., it's real!
No, 100w won't make it go lower.
Do you not know the difference in how a really good 300b, built to operate in that frequency band, SOUNDS compared to SS?
I think Brett is the only person who really knows what he's looking at here.
This doesn't even belong in the same thread as that MTX jack thing, or auto audio, or 100w or 1000w amp B.S.
I still do.
The more I learn about audio, the more amazed I am.
Not by the "excess" but the engineering and synergy involved.
Why wouldn't it hit 20 Hz?
Did you even check out the flare rate/path length/throat/mouth?
And this isn't just "modeled" B.S., it's real!
No, 100w won't make it go lower.
Do you not know the difference in how a really good 300b, built to operate in that frequency band, SOUNDS compared to SS?
I think Brett is the only person who really knows what he's looking at here.
This doesn't even belong in the same thread as that MTX jack thing, or auto audio, or 100w or 1000w amp B.S.
The title of this thread is funny. Use 100 MTX jackhammer things connected to many 115 outlets....
SkinnyBoy said:I applied for a car loan, and didn't get it, so now I figure I'll blow all my money on a subwoofer instead. Its not like I need a car, I can't even drive. ANYWAY!!!!
I intend on ordering two Maelstroms, just as soon as I get my money back from a dodgy ebay purchase. Hey, while I'm here, why don't I tell my life story........ on the 14th of november, 1985 a child was both. That child was me. Weighing in at...... alright, enough.
I was thinking 300 litres a sub tuned to 20Hz... it should do 20Hz at over 120dB in room 🙂
now, what impedence are these subs?? as far as I can tell they are 6 ohms, correct? which means the amp I'm looking at will give them 500 watts each... plenty 🙂
anyway, is there a better bang for buck sub than the maelstrom? I thought about the Tempest, namely 4 of them, it would be slightly cheaper, and maybe even slightly louder, but I want 18's just so I have 18's 😛
My suggestion would be to use the Adire driver that best meets your needs for LF and get something like the Behringer EP2500 pro audio amp bridged for mono to give you the power needed to get the spl's you want.
SkinnyBoy said:I think I'll just jump of a building... it would be easier, cheaper, and quicker...
May I recommend a TALL building?
Bill Fitzpatrick said:
May I recommend a TALL building?
DAMMIT!!! I can't do anything right... 😛
SkinnyBoy said:
DAMMIT!!! I can't do anything right... 😛
Does that mean that you tested a too low building?
Ouch!! 😉
Go with 4 18" Ascendand Audio Avalanches 1500w(can use even less) in an IB and be done with it. If an IB is not do-able then get just 2 18" avas and 1500W(again can use less) in ported boxes and your set(until you lose your hearing).
With room gain it could hit 20hz. The mouth is so big,that the path length required is huge to reach the same cutoff.serenechaos said:When I first saw it I thought it was amazing too.
I still do.
The more I learn about audio, the more amazed I am.
Not by the "excess" but the engineering and synergy involved.
Why wouldn't it hit 20 Hz?
Did you even check out the flare rate/path length/throat/mouth?
And this isn't just "modeled" B.S., it's real!
No, 100w won't make it go lower.
Do you not know the difference in how a really good 300b, built to operate in that frequency band, SOUNDS compared to SS?
I think Brett is the only person who really knows what he's looking at here.
This doesn't even belong in the same thread as that MTX jack thing, or auto audio, or 100w or 1000w amp B.S.
I havent modeled its path length,flare,mouth because it isnt provided and i cant be bothered guessing.
That was a ridiculous statement,who ever said it 😛No, 100w won't make it go lower.
I have absolutely no idea.Do you not know the difference in how a really good 300b, built to operate in that frequency band, SOUNDS compared to SS?
Not by the "excess" but the engineering and synergy involved.
Synergy normally springs to mind in 'audiophile' magazines normally when huge amounts of money are involved to update your model 1.0 cables up to 2.0 cables with a corresponding increase in cost because model 1.0 cables just dont 'cut the mustard'
Ofcourse I would like to hear a valve amp , and some Class A SS with minimal NFB but that isnt possible at the moment without significant costs.
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