Once you provide some .FRD + .ZMA files I'm sure someone will take a crack at creating a different crossover for you.
.FRD file is a frequency response file ( as captured using your UMIK-1 microphone along with REW (and then exported from REW as an .frd file )).
.ZMA file is an exported impedance file ( created by your DATS system when hooked up to your horn/driver combo , +/or your woofer mounted within your enclosure > each,, measured separately without any passive components in line/place ) .
🙂
Last edited:
I thing they can sound better with better components but I don't know if a different type or higher order would sound better yet.
I'm just not well versed in this. I built the current crossovers to get ready for an AKfest in a rush and never changed them.
I'm just not well versed in this. I built the current crossovers to get ready for an AKfest in a rush and never changed them.
They sound good but I just "assume" they might sound better.
Great Earl. I'll get to measuring.
Dennis,
A good start here would be to display a frequency response of the system ( with existing crossovers ) as measured ( on-axis to the Edgar horn ) at 1 Meter and then again at 2 Meters.
- You can simply "zip" the .mdat file ( which is an REW file extension ) then up-load + attach it to your post ( if that's any easier for you ) .
🙂
A good start here would be to display a frequency response of the system ( with existing crossovers ) as measured ( on-axis to the Edgar horn ) at 1 Meter and then again at 2 Meters.
- You can simply "zip" the .mdat file ( which is an REW file extension ) then up-load + attach it to your post ( if that's any easier for you ) .
🙂
Will do Earl. I have to wait a couple days until my new laptop arrives. My old one gave up the ghost.
I am not going to give up. Third order tweeter xover helps low frequency from harm to the tweeter better than first order. I depends on xover Hz, tweeter design, and SPL output if needed or not.
Your use of resistors to pad down mid/tweeter is a choice, I use/prefer autotransformers for this in my crossovers. But the way you appear to use the resistors bungles up the capacitors value for blocking low frequencies.
in the schematic the caps show as polarized but I've never seen a polarized cap in a crossover.
1st Order Normal Polarity
5000 Hertz / 625 Hertz
4 Ohm Tweeter / 16 Ohm Mid / 8 Ohm Woofer
0 db Bandpass Gain, Spread = 8 : 3 octaves
Parts List
Capacitors
C1 = 7.95 uF
C2 = 17.93 uF
Inductors
L1 = 0.45 mH
L2 = 2.04 mH
1st Order Normal Polarity
5000 Hertz / 625 Hertz
4 Ohm Tweeter / 16 Ohm Mid / 8 Ohm Woofer
0 db Bandpass Gain, Spread = 8 : 3 octaves
Parts List
Capacitors
C1 = 7.95 uF
C2 = 17.93 uF
Inductors
L1 = 0.45 mH
L2 = 2.04 mH
Attachments
Good Eye Dennis!
That capacitor symbol is for a polarized capacitor.
How To Read a Schematic
Another reason ( I suppose ) to not place to much trust in those sites.
🙂
That capacitor symbol is for a polarized capacitor.
How To Read a Schematic
Another reason ( I suppose ) to not place to much trust in those sites.
🙂
I maybe I learn a bit more about crossovers so I found some tutorials online about Xsim. A lot simpler than I thought so I down loaded it and will give it a try.
Hi all. I was working on my GM70 amp for a bit but now my garage is toooo hot (between 105 and 98 in the summer) to work out there so I am back on this crossovers.
One thing I thought as I got back into this project is if I have a 4ohm tweeter, a 16ohm mid-horn, and a 8ohm woofer, do I just average that out to determine what tap I should use on my amp??? I have 4, 8, and 16 ohm taps.
One thing I thought as I got back into this project is if I have a 4ohm tweeter, a 16ohm mid-horn, and a 8ohm woofer, do I just average that out to determine what tap I should use on my amp??? I have 4, 8, and 16 ohm taps.
I think I would start at 8 ohms to maximise power transfer re the woofer. The mid and treble should be ok with this.
If your amp is one that is sensitive to the speaker impedance I would then tweak to optimise extension vs output, and tame midrange peaks.
If your amp is one that is sensitive to the speaker impedance I would then tweak to optimise extension vs output, and tame midrange peaks.
I'm not sure if it is sensitive to speaker impedance. It is a SET GM70 with a 12GN7 driver tube......if that matters.
Hard to guess, it's the output impedance that does it. Maybe one day when you have nothing better to do, put an 8 ohm resistor in parallel with the speakers, readjust the volume and see if the tone has changed.
Hi All. I had to put this aside - No work, No Mon, No Fun. Back to work now and waiting to get my Bedini 150/150 amp back and will start back on this project hopefully next week.
Hi all. I've been so busy starting a business that I only now have the time to get back to this. I have forgotten what crossover design program I was going to use. Any suggestions?
Hi all. sorry I had to drop out. A medical condition knocked me out for 8 months, but the docs figured it out and now I'm back.
First, I'm going to use my 3-way active crossover to determine the xover points I like best, then I'll take the measurements and post them here.
I haven't been in my listening room for 8 months. It feels great to get back into it.
First, I'm going to use my 3-way active crossover to determine the xover points I like best, then I'll take the measurements and post them here.
I haven't been in my listening room for 8 months. It feels great to get back into it.
