Wow! Very nice work!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I recently checked all hardware stores around for that aluminium strip (for carpets?) the same as on your amp, but could not find anymore... New DIY fashion? 😉
I don't have this fetish, but I can say this schematic is quite possibly the most well designed guitar amp. Two chokes in the PSU? Everybody else is using one, even if that. And other niceties as well. Seems the guy was a perfectionist.
By the way telecastertech, the voltage does not divide itself that way. It is fed parallel to the screens, So they each get the full voltage. 100 or 470 Ohms will not have a great effect on the voltage but it will have effect on the tone, when driven hard.
By the way telecastertech, the voltage does not divide itself that way. It is fed parallel to the screens, So they each get the full voltage. 100 or 470 Ohms will not have a great effect on the voltage but it will have effect on the tone, when driven hard.
That cab is superb! Well done telecastertech, you sure have the tenacity needed to take this through to completion. I take my hat off to you, sir!
I'm thinking maybe I'd better add my name to the list of guys who want one of yours.
🙂
I'm thinking maybe I'd better add my name to the list of guys who want one of yours.
🙂
Sorry, but I have never come across one. I don't care much for cold solid state... I like the warmth of hollow state. 😀
I concur with the sentiment, TelecasterTech, but was interested in learning more about how they were using the D130 as pictured in this link at post #4
Cabinet for Fender Sig Model D130F, like to build - The Gear Page
Cabinet for Fender Sig Model D130F, like to build - The Gear Page
Imperial cab & JBL spkr
Hi again Brilliantblue,
I did take a look at that link you posted (thanks!) - and saw the Imperial cab with the 15" speaker in it. The postings threw me off a little bit because one guy said he had a Jensen P15 in there, but clearly, I see an aluminium dust cap so I'm thinking more JBL D-130. But after reading the rest, he mentions that the photo is of someone else's setup.
These cabinets were completed sealed in the back. The port for the low frequencies was open towards the front of the amp. Some people have reported great sound with these. Ampeg used to do this in the 60s as well with their Reflex Baffle system design. I am not aware that, in the Standel cabs, boards were installed on angles to 'channel' the sound, but clearly if a 'bass port' exists, something would have to help it along.
As for the speaker setup, what is it that you wanted to know? 🙂
Frank
Hi again Brilliantblue,
I did take a look at that link you posted (thanks!) - and saw the Imperial cab with the 15" speaker in it. The postings threw me off a little bit because one guy said he had a Jensen P15 in there, but clearly, I see an aluminium dust cap so I'm thinking more JBL D-130. But after reading the rest, he mentions that the photo is of someone else's setup.
These cabinets were completed sealed in the back. The port for the low frequencies was open towards the front of the amp. Some people have reported great sound with these. Ampeg used to do this in the 60s as well with their Reflex Baffle system design. I am not aware that, in the Standel cabs, boards were installed on angles to 'channel' the sound, but clearly if a 'bass port' exists, something would have to help it along.
As for the speaker setup, what is it that you wanted to know? 🙂
Frank
Thanks TelecasterTech!
Really I'm just looking for "tried-and-true" plans or schemes for cabinetizing a D130(f). I have one from a friend who is looking for a "clean" guitar amp, and I know that he will want to gig with it, so I'm looking to take advantage of as efficient an application I can find that doesn't color the sound too much.
That front ported Imperial cabinet looked promising. Though I cited it as an example, my underlying motive is to use this speaker efficiently and "cleanly". Originally I was looking to power it with 18w (6v6 PP), but we are rethinking amplifiers at the moment.
Needless to say, the examples in this thread are beautiful and enticing! However we already have plenty of parts together that would constitute an amp but not a clone of the thread's namesake!
Anyway, thanks for the tip to look at Ampegs. If you know of any more information out there on this Standel Imperial design, I'd be interested in hearing about that as well. And, well, any advice you may have!
Jeff
Really I'm just looking for "tried-and-true" plans or schemes for cabinetizing a D130(f). I have one from a friend who is looking for a "clean" guitar amp, and I know that he will want to gig with it, so I'm looking to take advantage of as efficient an application I can find that doesn't color the sound too much.
That front ported Imperial cabinet looked promising. Though I cited it as an example, my underlying motive is to use this speaker efficiently and "cleanly". Originally I was looking to power it with 18w (6v6 PP), but we are rethinking amplifiers at the moment.
Needless to say, the examples in this thread are beautiful and enticing! However we already have plenty of parts together that would constitute an amp but not a clone of the thread's namesake!
Anyway, thanks for the tip to look at Ampegs. If you know of any more information out there on this Standel Imperial design, I'd be interested in hearing about that as well. And, well, any advice you may have!
Jeff
You guys out there building the 25L15 clone's, do any of you have a detailed schematic of the unit? I would love to build one. Best to All, Gary
Wavebourn: The flat aluminum trim is 3/4" seam binder and is available from Lowe's and several hardward stores, but may not be stocked (it's not, around here). I've had it "special ordered" from a couple different places, and there are two brands available (that I've found so far) - M&D, and Frost King. The M&D part number is Seam Binder #78121, I don't have the FK's handy. The M&D is better, IMO, as it's holes are drilled with better centering (the FK's had some holes noticeably off-center, so I only used it once - before learning I could special-order the M&D.)
Both are reasonably close copies of the original trim - which I finally located the source, btw, to be an old defunct company that went out of business several years ago. Major difference is that the grooves are not as deep as the original, whose semi-circular grooves were deep enough to form sharp ridges between them. The modern equivalents have shallower grooves with small flats between them.
Gary: the majority of folks who have detailed 25L15 schematics are bound by non-disclosure agreements that prevent further distribution. But even with a schematic, unless you have an original to copy from (in which case I guess you wouldn't need a schematic, would you?) it'd be nearly impossible to construct an actual clone from it. A schematic describes how to wire up the parts, but doesn't tell you where to put them, or include things like cabinet dimensions, chassis layouts, parts lists, or other construction details. I can tell you the current cost to build one is just under $2k, parts & labor, to build one... but if you're serious, PM me...
Frank: Have you gotten yours finished yet?
Bud
Both are reasonably close copies of the original trim - which I finally located the source, btw, to be an old defunct company that went out of business several years ago. Major difference is that the grooves are not as deep as the original, whose semi-circular grooves were deep enough to form sharp ridges between them. The modern equivalents have shallower grooves with small flats between them.
Gary: the majority of folks who have detailed 25L15 schematics are bound by non-disclosure agreements that prevent further distribution. But even with a schematic, unless you have an original to copy from (in which case I guess you wouldn't need a schematic, would you?) it'd be nearly impossible to construct an actual clone from it. A schematic describes how to wire up the parts, but doesn't tell you where to put them, or include things like cabinet dimensions, chassis layouts, parts lists, or other construction details. I can tell you the current cost to build one is just under $2k, parts & labor, to build one... but if you're serious, PM me...
Frank: Have you gotten yours finished yet?
Bud
As I recall, the 25L15 had the chassis mounted on shock mounts. What shock mounts are recommended for a 25L15-like build? Any suggestions?
As far as commercially available iso-mounts I would look at Lords Corporation for possible parts used. Lords has been in business for over 85 years and have long been the industrial standard.
LORD Corporation - Industrial Parts Catalog
I used several different types and found the grommet type & the flex-bolt/sandwich type can be adapted very easily.
These come in sizes more common of this type of application.
New 25L15
I have just finished building this circuit using 6L6 . Amazing Standel tone, additions to the T filter maks the amp very versatile and will take care of the many minor variances of the amp. All the controls behaves exactly as per modern version of this amp
I have just finished building this circuit using 6L6 . Amazing Standel tone, additions to the T filter maks the amp very versatile and will take care of the many minor variances of the amp. All the controls behaves exactly as per modern version of this amp
Hello all, i know im many years behind on this post, but a man has to have a hobby! Only thing im really stuck on is power supply and chokes, eg 1h seems a bit small? also the bias resistors, mainly is it 4.7k or 47k on grid1? Regards Richard
L1 choke
I don’t know if you are still out there but if you are, working on the standel 25L15 amp build and can not make out the choke specs of L1, can you tell me what it is, thanks so much
I don’t know if you are still out there but if you are, working on the standel 25L15 amp build and can not make out the choke specs of L1, can you tell me what it is, thanks so much