Yes, I know, yet another quick blue LED bantering. Personally, I never had a issue with the color, only with the point source of light and it's brightness/undiffused look. My remedy was quick, easy and didn't involve math or resistors. Hot Glue! Whereas I don't typically indulge in hacks of any sort, this qualifies as one. The good news is it's totally reversible. In my case, the LED is lit dimly when the unit is off and on brightly when on. Now, when the unit is off, it's off (can't see it) and when on, a soft blue glow.
I removed the LED by pushing from the front with a plastic tool while pulling on it from the interior of the chassis. Then I put a small piece of scotch tape on the faceplate to cover the hole. This served as a barrier for the hot glue and gave a nice flat surface. Fill the void the LED use to reside in with hot glue, encircle the face of the LED with glue and stick the two together. Hold in place for 20 seconds or so and you're done. For all the data dinks that lurk around this forum, I'd say the negative offset from original position of the LED to the new is 3/16" or slightly less.
Best wishes to all this Christmas season.
Stay safe.
I removed the LED by pushing from the front with a plastic tool while pulling on it from the interior of the chassis. Then I put a small piece of scotch tape on the faceplate to cover the hole. This served as a barrier for the hot glue and gave a nice flat surface. Fill the void the LED use to reside in with hot glue, encircle the face of the LED with glue and stick the two together. Hold in place for 20 seconds or so and you're done. For all the data dinks that lurk around this forum, I'd say the negative offset from original position of the LED to the new is 3/16" or slightly less.
Best wishes to all this Christmas season.
Stay safe.
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I got a cyan LED in my phono preamp.... the music "glows" much better. I find the blue LEDs make the sound too sterile.
Mele Kalikimaka to you too.
Just change the LED to one with a different color, and use a drop resistor, as blue LEDs run abut 3.5 to 4V, and the rest (other than white) are quite happy at about 1.5V.
Bear in mind that dull LEDs seem to be out of production, the new ones all are too bright, maybe a salvage or old stock would be suitable.
Or use abrasive, as above, or a tinted nail lacquer, again as above.
The possibilities are limited by your imagination.
Have fun in the Christmas season, go meet people if you can.
A change from the usual daily routine.
Bear in mind that dull LEDs seem to be out of production, the new ones all are too bright, maybe a salvage or old stock would be suitable.
Or use abrasive, as above, or a tinted nail lacquer, again as above.
The possibilities are limited by your imagination.
Have fun in the Christmas season, go meet people if you can.
A change from the usual daily routine.
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I use blues , I just run them at .3 - .5ma with a much higher value resistor. If I buy new hardware with blues , I just have to change that resistor.
Most new stuff is ridiculous in how bright they run the LED's (in general) ... some actually hurt the eyes. For LED displays , the "new" brightness is
Ideal. My ESP32 powered RGB's can double as room lights at >10ma X 3.
I have greens in my (other) RGB setup that are so efficient I have to halve the hex value to get balanced color. Not much consistency with Asian LED
tech. Most of my Asian UV led's have just failed after months ... a lot of junk out there. The blues also fail consistently , unless you run them <1mA
Those "dull" old LED's are the best for amps (old red GaAs CCS's). Low Vf , less noise and nice glow). I've salvaged 30 year old red red's ... they still work good.
Most new stuff is ridiculous in how bright they run the LED's (in general) ... some actually hurt the eyes. For LED displays , the "new" brightness is
Ideal. My ESP32 powered RGB's can double as room lights at >10ma X 3.
I have greens in my (other) RGB setup that are so efficient I have to halve the hex value to get balanced color. Not much consistency with Asian LED
tech. Most of my Asian UV led's have just failed after months ... a lot of junk out there. The blues also fail consistently , unless you run them <1mA
Those "dull" old LED's are the best for amps (old red GaAs CCS's). Low Vf , less noise and nice glow). I've salvaged 30 year old red red's ... they still work good.
Yeah , red/blue is nice. Many shades of pink to violet. I use dual ESP32s's with WLED SR on 600 rgb's. The chasing and colors are cool , but I use
Mic's and a buffered LM324 input for the worlds most advanced VU meter.... hehe. I use 3 channels on each ESP , 1 channel on each for L/R.
Web interface to match my PC music collection. Phone app controlled , too.
OS
I can burn through 6000mA @5V LED current , Had to actually buy a 10A china supply. WS8211/12b led's can be programmed right at the chip to limit ...
10mA , in my case. Can't wait for the Xmas tree - next year.
Mic's and a buffered LM324 input for the worlds most advanced VU meter.... hehe. I use 3 channels on each ESP , 1 channel on each for L/R.
Web interface to match my PC music collection. Phone app controlled , too.
OS
I can burn through 6000mA @5V LED current , Had to actually buy a 10A china supply. WS8211/12b led's can be programmed right at the chip to limit ...
10mA , in my case. Can't wait for the Xmas tree - next year.
