This is peak power, I wonder how much it draws, normal listening levels?
They are pretty efficient, so not much more than the output power. But it is the peak current capability / internal resistance that is more important.
And what is the benefit supposed to be?Merrill have one planned...
Less noise, on an amp thats noise can barely be measured...
Just curious as Li-ion batteries become more and more efficient, and with reduced costs, whether there is a point, when hi-end hi-fi power supplies will cost more noise free clean power of DC.
Just curious as Li-ion batteries become more and more efficient, and with reduced costs, whether there is a point, when hi-end hi-fi power supplies will cost more noise free clean power of DC.
The quiescent currents and efficiencies are stated in the data sheets/manuals
It will draw as much power as is demanded by the speaker efficiency and the volume set by the user....
It will draw as much power as is demanded by the speaker efficiency and the volume set by the user....
Less noise, on an amp thats noise can barely be measured...
Indeed - and how much of that noise is PS-related?
Is there a difference between a T5AL and a T5AH fuse? It says on thing in the manual and the other on the SMPS600 itself.
Is there a difference between a T5AL and a T5AH fuse? It says on thing in the manual and the other on the SMPS600 itself.
Did you blow them?😀😀😀
I am planning on trying out active crossover with my ncores, for the fun of it 🙂 I just bought an dbx driverack 260 to be used as crossover.
Is it safe to connect ncore directly to a tweeter or compression driver? Or should the switching frequency be removed with some passive low-pass filter?
Is it safe to connect ncore directly to a tweeter or compression driver? Or should the switching frequency be removed with some passive low-pass filter?
Is it safe to connect ncore directly to a tweeter or compression driver?
Yes.
Is it safe to connect ncore directly to a tweeter or compression driver?
Yes it's technically safe, but if your source outputs DC then bye bye compression driver. I would use a large DC blocking cap in series with the compression driver anyway, it's such a cheap way to protect against mistakes.
Yes it's technically safe, but if your source outputs DC then bye bye compression driver. I would use a large DC blocking cap in series with the compression driver anyway, it's such a cheap way to protect against mistakes.
I would put the cap at the ncore input - that allows you to use a much smaller cap, instead of a bipolar electrolyte or something equally horrible.
I would put the cap at the ncore input - that allows you to use a much smaller cap, instead of a bipolar electrolyte or something equally horrible.
That would also work. But in the case that the NCore fails one or two big say 10 uF MKS caps isn't a big price to pay for extra safety =)
But mostly it's just that I would put a protection cap inside the speaker so if I sometime feels like swapping amps and connect the wrong cables I will still have a tweeter afterwards.
That would also work. But in the case that the NCore fails one or two big say 10 uF MKS caps isn't a big price to pay for extra safety
Not a big price in terms of money and complexity, but many of us who use active crossovers do it (among other reasons) to avoid analog crossovers and associated phase issues. Your 10 uF cap is the HF part of a 1st order Butterworth at 4 kHz (assuming 4 ohm tweeters).
Finally got around to rebuilding my amps with better parts-Furotech, Cardas. Also used a jeweler's loupe to compensate for extremely poor vision. Now I can see that I don't know how to solder. Nevertheless, plugged them in and I'll be darned if they don't sound just as good as they did yesterday. I'm able to imagine that I hear small preferred differences. Wifey thinks she hears clear differences but then again doesn't really listen and doesn't care. Maybe a gambit to keep me from the upgrade itch. Something I rarely scratch. The 400's are a no brainer to assemble. If I can do it . . .
ncore bridged
so wanted to know...is it possible to join 3 ncore and get 1200W on 4 ohm...i have pair of 3 ncore each pics here..
FS: Pair of 3Ncore each
can they be joined to give 1200W output power....or two either for 800w...
thought i ask....need for some maggie 1.7...heard more the power more they sing....
V
so wanted to know...is it possible to join 3 ncore and get 1200W on 4 ohm...i have pair of 3 ncore each pics here..
FS: Pair of 3Ncore each
can they be joined to give 1200W output power....or two either for 800w...
thought i ask....need for some maggie 1.7...heard more the power more they sing....
V
thisisvv: impedance of magneplanar 1.7 is close to 2 ohm at 10kHz-20kHz and below 2 ohm at 20kHz
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/imag...s/magneplanar-1.7-speaker-impedance-phase.gif
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/imag...s/magneplanar-1.7-speaker-impedance-phase.gif
thisisvv: impedance of magneplanar 1.7 is close to 2 ohm at 10kHz-20kHz and below 2 ohm at 20kHz
The nc400 is specified to work OK down to 1 ohm.
Are you sure you need 1200W, 400W is a lot. It will give you 112 dB @ 1 m with 86 dB efficient speakers. If that's not enough I'd recommend you to turn down the volume 😉
James Romeyn sells bridged monoblock NC400s: “Bridged mono bloc powered by SMPS1200A400, 1200W @ 2 Ohm”.
Bob
Bob
You might want to read following before considering the bridged NCore... it might not be a right solution with low-impedance speakers.
NC400 anyone bridging it yet?
NC400 anyone bridging it yet?
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