How to Tweak a Passive Crossover

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and with only .5" walls I'm sure we're wasting just a smidgen of energy
...and re-radiating it at select frequencies from unexpected locations along the cabinet walls perhaps. Hard to say whether it is a problem. Small cabinets are more stiff and the panels are smaller and closer to the driver (where the sound is supposed to be coming from).

Maybe instead you might find the woofer basket is rattling the cabinet directly through its mount. This can be checked with softer mountings.

You could try holding some blocks against the larger panels with a wood clamp putting them under moderate stress.
 
Follow-up question for these. Why do you think none of the designs with this driver configuration used any internal cabinet bracing. I'm not one of those bracing nuts, but it seems that with only .5" side panels it would be a concern.
I see both designs just use a of light bit fluff behind the woofer. This is good for any loudspeaker, absorbing around 3kHz and occasionally damping long standing waves. People use 1" eggcrate foam in reflex, because you don't want to impede the bass reflex, but it can also improve things above 3kHz for the woofer.

Small boxes in Golden Ratio (0.618:1:1.618 IIRC) just don't benefit from bracing. It can make things worse. You can then hear the bracing if it is clumsily done.

Always good to stick some rubbery stuff to sidepanels IMO. As the low panel vibration travels round it gets absorbed.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/223174-interesting-read-i-found-lossy-cabinet-designs-harbeth.html#post3234256

Troels Gravesen has loads of tips here, even on gaskets and screws and T-nuts:
Tips and ideas Copyright 2012-14
 
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