How to terminate 7 core power cable

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Under most codes, Green/Yellow/Ground/PE *MUST* be at-least about 2/3rd the area of either current-carrying conductor. In some cases a Full Size Ground is required.

So L=3 N=3 PE=1 is no good.

What's wrong with 3-core?
 
Im making a few new diy power cables, thus trying different types of cable.
The cable im referring to is nordost odin supreme reference power cable, purchased off the roll. It has 7 conductors/ cores- please see attached photo.
The seller suggested:
3 cores live
3 cores neutral
1 core ground
I just wanted to confirm with another source this is correct?
 

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Okay, so I googled the name of the cable from post #6 and found this page:

(Link broke and I can't fix it, paste this to the browser and take out the spaces🙂
http:// www .analogueseduction.net/nordost-mains-cables/ndvalic[1][2][3].html

I see this description in the text:

"It uses six close tolerance 16AWG,..."

... but then under SPECIFICATIONS it says:

"7 x 15 AWG solid core conductors"

... and I have the distinct feeling that isn't the only discrepancy on that page. I do wonder why the power rating is givrn in amps, and I'd rather not read a description of how capacitance affects a mains power cable.

I would have thought that if "close tolerance" were truly important, they would have made it with the number of conductors being a multiple of 3 (oh, wait, 6 is a multiple, but whatever), to keep that close tolerance with all three connections, hot, neutral and ground.

Regardless, a single 16AWG core ought to be big enough to throw a 20 or 30 amp circuit breaker. But then I am not a licensed electrician, so don't rely on what I say.
 
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Why not buy proper mains cable rather than audiophile nonsense, then your house will be safe and your insurance will be valid? Your music will sound the same either way. Note that wiring codes often require that cables connecting from the wall to equipment must be flexible i.e. stranded.

You took the words right out off my mouth 🙂!

I want to ask: Is there in the OP's country any set of regulations, referring to mains cabling? Does the suggested cable accord to them? I doubt on this, as the pic appears to show shielded cables that most probably don't. So another song title comes into my mind:

Burning Down The House 🙂!

Best regards!

EDIT: I won't argue that there actually is 7-stranded cable with ability to carry mains voltage, as I had my hands on some about 35 years ago. This cable had signs of an official institution (VDE in Germany) repeatedly printed on it's outer insulation and had official colour coded wires (a green/yellow one, a brown one and five (numbered) black ones). It's primary purpose wasn't power cabling, though, rather than as a control cable in my parents' central heating.
 
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You took the words right out off my mouth 🙂!

I want to ask: Is there in the OP's country any set of regulations, referring to mains cabling? Does the suggested cable accord to them? I doubt on this, as the pic appears to show shielded cables that most probably don't. So another song title comes into my mind:

Burning Down The House 🙂!

Best regards!

EDIT: I won't argue that there actually is 7-stranded cable with ability to carry mains voltage, as I had my hands on some about 35 years ago. This cable had signs of an official institution (VDE in Germany) repeatedly printed on it's outer insulation and had official colour coded wires (a green/yellow one, a brown one and five (numbered) black ones). It's primary purpose wasn't power cabling, though, rather than as a control cable in my parents' central heating.
From the link I posted (where the cable already has the appropriate connector on each end), the cable was certainly intended for going between a wall outlet and some "hifi" component, but seven "strands" of 16 gauge each is surely some stiff wire, and if you bent it around enough (which admittedly would take some strength or tools), the solid copper would break. This is why such wire is not recommended for such use, where it may get bent, straightened and coiled up many time over its lifetime - it's only for use in-wall, where it gets bent once during installation and doesn't get moved around again for decades, until it's removed for renovation or such.

But if you're going to believe the specs for capacitance and propoagation speed are going to affect the sound of a power cable...
 
454Casull said:
Don't you think it would be cheaper and less stupid to pull a new power cable from your circuit breaker panel and run it out of the wall and straight into your power supply? Come on now.
It might be cheaper. It would be similarly stupid, unless the amplifier was permanently installed and so suitable for having permanent mains wiring.

Making a DIY audio mains cable is easy. Buy some suitable connectors (not expensive 'audio' ones!). Buy some suitable ordinary mains cable (not expensive - possibly dangerous - 'audio' stuff!). Put the connectors on the cable. Then discover that you could buy the whole thing for less money from almost any electronic/electrical catalogue.
 
Then discover that you could buy the whole thing for less money from almost any electronic/electrical catalogue.

Same experience here. Some weeks ago I needed to buy ten metres of 3-stranded flexible power cable. I was about to have the cable cut from the roll by an employee, as I discovered extension cables lying in the shelves nearby. These were much (!) cheaper than the same length and same cross sectioned raw cable. So I grabbed one and cut both the male and female plugs, when at home.

Best regards!
 
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