Online Calculators / Design Software
Get WinISD (search for it on the net) or use:
http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#ported
-- thats just what i bookmarked - theres a lot of calculators there.
gl w/ your project.
Get WinISD (search for it on the net) or use:
http://www.mhsoft.nl/spk_calc.asp#ported
-- thats just what i bookmarked - theres a lot of calculators there.
gl w/ your project.
anyone tried this???
my background is in the arts and i have worked with this stuff (gatorfoam) for years. it is hard as what you should need and the foam should also eat up the vibrations too. when i first read about the spiral in the cube i thought of this stuff. then why not the whole box. the reason it scores easily and can be bent with care into that shape. have done before. it might be worth a try at least??? check it out. most art supply shops will have it or can get it.
http://www.dickblick.com/zz132/01/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1011
my background is in the arts and i have worked with this stuff (gatorfoam) for years. it is hard as what you should need and the foam should also eat up the vibrations too. when i first read about the spiral in the cube i thought of this stuff. then why not the whole box. the reason it scores easily and can be bent with care into that shape. have done before. it might be worth a try at least??? check it out. most art supply shops will have it or can get it.
http://www.dickblick.com/zz132/01/products.asp?param=0&ig_id=1011
tang band
Now that my Zen4 is nearing completion, I finally assembled this Tang Band box - I am not brave enough to hook the amp I assemble directly to my main speakers, the first time. Ultimately I will use these as computer speakers.
The box is .75L (the effective volume is reduced further by volume occupied by the driver). I put these boxes in my main system and was really surprised at the sound (I was very careful with volume control and listened at very low levels). There is no bottom end (as expected), but imaging is superb. Midrange clarity and detail, though not up to par with my main speakers, is also excellent (a lot better than some much more ambitious boxes, for example some PSBs that I have tried in the past). High frequency is rolled off (again as expected). Also, there is something (very subtle) happening in the high frequencies that I do not like (and I think that is the only fault I can find with these). The effect is very subtle and I am not sure what exactly that is. With a box as small as this I was expecting a mid-bass bump, but cannot hear it.
Overall, I think these drivers deserve consideration for some serious Frugal-Phile projects.
Now that my Zen4 is nearing completion, I finally assembled this Tang Band box - I am not brave enough to hook the amp I assemble directly to my main speakers, the first time. Ultimately I will use these as computer speakers.
The box is .75L (the effective volume is reduced further by volume occupied by the driver). I put these boxes in my main system and was really surprised at the sound (I was very careful with volume control and listened at very low levels). There is no bottom end (as expected), but imaging is superb. Midrange clarity and detail, though not up to par with my main speakers, is also excellent (a lot better than some much more ambitious boxes, for example some PSBs that I have tried in the past). High frequency is rolled off (again as expected). Also, there is something (very subtle) happening in the high frequencies that I do not like (and I think that is the only fault I can find with these). The effect is very subtle and I am not sure what exactly that is. With a box as small as this I was expecting a mid-bass bump, but cannot hear it.
Overall, I think these drivers deserve consideration for some serious Frugal-Phile projects.
Attachments
Jimmy154 said:
Compared to 3/4" mdf? Yeah, but I guess good enough for these 3 inchers. The box is really a lot more rigid than is looks - give it a try sometime, you will be surprised. Also, there is a lot of foul smelling transparent glue at terminal and driver interfaces to make them airtight.
W3 drivers and the 2" from TB
All the W3 drivers will not get down below 100HZ at a steady volume as posted.Been there done that.
I think our Victoria person ,who is the acting customer service for NUERA (NATHAN)I may add.Should try some of the product and then post his findings.
I to was in Nuera and started the company as some may know.
The W3-593S is the driver I wanted in a round frame for the DIY.
Then the W3-871S was born.
the same cone material, phase,plug,motor.Just a frame difference.Thant is it.
The W3-871S is the best driver Nuera sells hands down.The responce and calmness of this driver is not touched yet by other manufactures.
The W3-593S will go down to 100hz but for all of about 1.2seconds and then float.
The cubes you are talking about.
Well if the cube is large enought to hold the driver with little room at all that is just fine.The W2 drivers work best sealed not ported.
The range is high.only from 250hz and up.
Not a sub woofer xover will work.Been there done that also.
Tested every combo using the Nuera product to crossover with the W8-740C
The W2 drivers do not go low enough.
And the W3 just make it possible.
The best is the W3-871S as I stated above.
Over all the on and off axis of the 871Sis plus or minus 6 db to 20K.
And another thing do not trust any of the specs any company posts.Nothing they are a line that some companys seem to push father than others.I do not think any one will see different on that one.
I have built the W3 drivers into a cube of 4" and testing them in a 1.5 and soon a 2.5
As the cubes work well but the 1.5 covers the range more broad and smoother.
The best of luck and have fun.
For a cube use the 871S.
All the W3 drivers will not get down below 100HZ at a steady volume as posted.Been there done that.
I think our Victoria person ,who is the acting customer service for NUERA (NATHAN)I may add.Should try some of the product and then post his findings.
I to was in Nuera and started the company as some may know.
The W3-593S is the driver I wanted in a round frame for the DIY.
Then the W3-871S was born.
the same cone material, phase,plug,motor.Just a frame difference.Thant is it.
The W3-871S is the best driver Nuera sells hands down.The responce and calmness of this driver is not touched yet by other manufactures.
The W3-593S will go down to 100hz but for all of about 1.2seconds and then float.
The cubes you are talking about.
Well if the cube is large enought to hold the driver with little room at all that is just fine.The W2 drivers work best sealed not ported.
The range is high.only from 250hz and up.
Not a sub woofer xover will work.Been there done that also.
Tested every combo using the Nuera product to crossover with the W8-740C
The W2 drivers do not go low enough.
And the W3 just make it possible.
The best is the W3-871S as I stated above.
Over all the on and off axis of the 871Sis plus or minus 6 db to 20K.
And another thing do not trust any of the specs any company posts.Nothing they are a line that some companys seem to push father than others.I do not think any one will see different on that one.
I have built the W3 drivers into a cube of 4" and testing them in a 1.5 and soon a 2.5
As the cubes work well but the 1.5 covers the range more broad and smoother.
The best of luck and have fun.
For a cube use the 871S.
Banned
Joined 2002
that look s funny excuse me if i laugh but it is just in humor. i made a speaker our of cardboard curently still useing it for testing my amps just for a load. i once used icecream pales they worked awsome but i used epoxy and made them more sturdy they were unbreak able tought too. light weight too.
Xyberz said:
Rubbermaid (hehe). The plastic is very hard - the drill bit 'walks' on it like it would do on aluminum. You would probably need some kind of a circle cutter (definitely a lot harder cutting circle on this with hand, when compared to plywood). The circle cutter I used was pretty hot with molten plastic all over it. Have fun!
Attachments
RAW said:
link
RAW said:
The container being quite hard, is also brittle, and broke into pieces when my '2-years old' bumped it off the table. Since I have packed-up my tools till sometime next year, I have not gotten around to fix the broken box yet...I was planning to run them with an old AMC integrated that I got.
round up
can someone please do a round up on this subject...
1. what is the best speaker for the dollar?
2. the best enclosure material?
3. what material do all the big name companies use for their enclosures?
4. is it really worth building your own system?
5. can you really reproduce or come close to store bought speakers?
6. can I build a speaker system that the sound would impress the trained ear?
I am hoping that the last couple of answers are going to be positive!
jered22
can someone please do a round up on this subject...
1. what is the best speaker for the dollar?
2. the best enclosure material?
3. what material do all the big name companies use for their enclosures?
4. is it really worth building your own system?
5. can you really reproduce or come close to store bought speakers?
6. can I build a speaker system that the sound would impress the trained ear?
I am hoping that the last couple of answers are going to be positive!
jered22
1) Impossible to say without an idea of your budget and requirements.
2) You can't go far wrong with cabinet grade ply, but it is an ongoing debate.
3) Usually chip/particle board, cheap...
4) Oh yes!
5) If you pay attention, you can easily match store bought speakers, and if you really work at it, exceed them.
6) Yes, see 5.
2) You can't go far wrong with cabinet grade ply, but it is an ongoing debate.
3) Usually chip/particle board, cheap...
4) Oh yes!
5) If you pay attention, you can easily match store bought speakers, and if you really work at it, exceed them.
6) Yes, see 5.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.