Hi P,
I thought you were saving up for some speakers.
Where did the money come from for the car?
Maybe I shouldn't have asked.
I thought you were saving up for some speakers.
Where did the money come from for the car?
Maybe I shouldn't have asked.
I think this will make you happy Mr. Punk
http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm
You don't need the biggest woofer, you just need to get horny
But seriously, chasing the biggest woofer and the biggest bass is completely pointless, I hope you realise that. I'm guessing you are probably a figment of someone’s imagination actually...
What are you going to do in your Skating Rink when get a null from 10Hz room modes and it cancels out 75% of your incredible bass power??
http://www.royaldevice.com/custom.htm
You don't need the biggest woofer, you just need to get horny
But seriously, chasing the biggest woofer and the biggest bass is completely pointless, I hope you realise that. I'm guessing you are probably a figment of someone’s imagination actually...
What are you going to do in your Skating Rink when get a null from 10Hz room modes and it cancels out 75% of your incredible bass power??
im not chasing around the biggest woofer for on,lol, I was just wonderin what the street rep on that clarion was cause I seriously think it wouldn't perform that well.
ok guys, well I know I neeed to learn this stuff on my own and I went over some of the basics on making crossovers uF etc etc and I haven't a clue as too what it all means so Could any of you guys give me a hand in designing a croosver for these speakers in this 3 way design:
tweeter
mid woofers
subwoofer/sub bass
the croosver will need to be able to handle around 220 watts rms um as far as ohms and all that it's whatevergoes with you guys.
thanx, I appreciate everyone here alot.
ps: the design is mw/t/mw/sw (midwoofer/tweeter/midwoofer/subwoofer)
tweeter
mid woofers
subwoofer/sub bass
the croosver will need to be able to handle around 220 watts rms um as far as ohms and all that it's whatevergoes with you guys.
thanx, I appreciate everyone here alot.
ps: the design is mw/t/mw/sw (midwoofer/tweeter/midwoofer/subwoofer)
If you want to be a CEO and Chairman of a future speaker company, it's time to hit the books and get a grounding in basic electronics and acoustics. You can't expect people to do your work for you, but if you ht a block in your own efforts to learn, the forum can be a great resource.
I don't think that "Mid" and that tweeter will play very well together. You'd be really stretching it.
Why that choice of drivers?
Why that choice of drivers?
Buy the speakers, download Speaker Workshop and learn to measure them, then once you have accurate results, post them here and we'll see where we can go from there. Or buy a kit.
I agree, time to get to work.
A three-way crossover is a MAJOR undertaking. If you're serious about such a project, I would be a major advocate of using an active crossover from the subwoofer to the two-way on top. That would greatly simplify matters.
Have you built a project yet? It's time to build something- you'll never get anywhere from just saying "what if?"- you've got to get acquainted with the reality of construction and design!
Go build something, anything. What happened to the BIBB project? I thought that project was pretty much in the bag. If you don't do that project, then go get an established project off of someone's website, or else buy a kit- just go build it! Trust me, you'll learn a lot.
A three-way crossover is a MAJOR undertaking. If you're serious about such a project, I would be a major advocate of using an active crossover from the subwoofer to the two-way on top. That would greatly simplify matters.
Have you built a project yet? It's time to build something- you'll never get anywhere from just saying "what if?"- you've got to get acquainted with the reality of construction and design!
Go build something, anything. What happened to the BIBB project? I thought that project was pretty much in the bag. If you don't do that project, then go get an established project off of someone's website, or else buy a kit- just go build it! Trust me, you'll learn a lot.
yeh your right I am gettin down with the books etc etc and all tha, well I know that Id be stretching it with the tweeter and mid woofer but I got that selection of driver because I already have a cabinet now I just need to fill the cabinet up without draining my wallet plus all the drivers are sheilded so I can place them near my tv which will be a plus in my crowded room where space is VERY limited.
Agree with Joe, build something and just about anything will do .... nah, maybe that peaky Dayton 6" is a bit difficult for you
This will suit you much better
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-850
This will suit you much better
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-850
ok I got designing a crossover down pat(resistors,caps,inductors,etc,etc,) but now I am stumped as how to put all this together on a pc board a little help with this anybody? I googled for about an hour lookin for how to install the parts on the pc board with little luck cause all I get the layout not how to physically solder the parts on the pc board and where to sodder them and how to connect them.
ok nevermind that I was googling this whole time when exactly what I was looking for was right on front of me, Parts Express has a mini lesson on crossovers, I thought that You had to etch out your pc board but I dont think it's nessacary is it?
Hi Punk & Cal,
the pic shows the inductors all facing the same way, up.
There may be interaction between them when done this way.
I note that Cal has given a bit of room between each, but it would be better if the three inductors were oriented at right angles to each other.
If there were four then the two that have to face in the same direction must be the farthest apart.
the pic shows the inductors all facing the same way, up.
There may be interaction between them when done this way.
I note that Cal has given a bit of room between each, but it would be better if the three inductors were oriented at right angles to each other.
If there were four then the two that have to face in the same direction must be the farthest apart.
Hi Andrew,
Yes, I heard it's the "in thing" to offset the orientation of the coils but I have not noted any difference when testing. Have you?
Yes, I heard it's the "in thing" to offset the orientation of the coils but I have not noted any difference when testing. Have you?
Well, I have - even on the "upright" coil I have noticed a diffence in which way it "points" - anyway, I dont hope he will use that many inductors
Not to offend Punkrk, but I doubt he will notice the difference - but its a good thing he is finally doing something 🙂
Not to offend Punkrk, but I doubt he will notice the difference - but its a good thing he is finally doing something 🙂
Coils...
...I was just reading this, Self found the effect was present in an amp where the coils were physically close, but once there was more than a few inches between coils, it was no big deal...orientation, if well controlled reduced the effect a lot.
With a single multichannel PCB for an amp it's hard to achieve the spacing necessary. In a speaker, where the woofer and tweeter sections can trivially be separated, I would think it less problematic.
Stuart
...I was just reading this, Self found the effect was present in an amp where the coils were physically close, but once there was more than a few inches between coils, it was no big deal...orientation, if well controlled reduced the effect a lot.
With a single multichannel PCB for an amp it's hard to achieve the spacing necessary. In a speaker, where the woofer and tweeter sections can trivially be separated, I would think it less problematic.
Stuart
Hi,
does "in thing" include advice passed on to me 30years ago?
Fads that are not based on fact do not persist that long (usually).
does "in thing" include advice passed on to me 30years ago?
Fads that are not based on fact do not persist that long (usually).
Andrew,
True enough. I just haven't noticed the difference. I like to mount my coils so they are spaced at least the diameter of the coil apart ie: a 2" diameter coil is at least 2" away from another. I thought placing them on end would apply if the coils are close together. Just my take.
Well the fact that Bose is still a strong player in the market makes me wonder. Mind you, you did say usually. 😉
True enough. I just haven't noticed the difference. I like to mount my coils so they are spaced at least the diameter of the coil apart ie: a 2" diameter coil is at least 2" away from another. I thought placing them on end would apply if the coils are close together. Just my take.
AndrewT said:
Well the fact that Bose is still a strong player in the market makes me wonder. Mind you, you did say usually. 😉
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