Those TC driver are crazy! Crazy price, too!
They look cool, but I doubt they play very high. Where would you need to cross? 80Hz?
They look cool, but I doubt they play very high. Where would you need to cross? 80Hz?
tinitus said:Now I am sure Punk gets really confused....
Not when he see's the prices $1200 for the 18" LMS5400 - bit of rip or what.
panomaniac said:They look cool, but I doubt they play very high. Where would you need to cross? 80Hz?
Yep the ones I linked are subs so its natural.
Shin....is it not true that you must work very hard to make that sub to keep up with the pace at loud levels....and that you after several expencive experiment and intensive help from experts are not there yet
Your right, I know thats how it is when very demanding
But what often bothers me a lot is that many people still think its an easy add on, to make a sub, connect it, and thats it.....theres so much going on with phase and all....I often experience that phase makes a huge diffence in bass....even if its phase relations between midrange and tweeter....not that easy I think
But what often bothers me a lot is that many people still think its an easy add on, to make a sub, connect it, and thats it.....theres so much going on with phase and all....I often experience that phase makes a huge diffence in bass....even if its phase relations between midrange and tweeter....not that easy I think
lol... no, but the right car sub can be just as effective. I use "Home" audio drivers in cars if I can. I think they sound better.
here is an example, ever heard of the compony Earthquake?
They have a sub called the "Magma" its a beast of a car sub when it came out. They user the same type of driver in there Home Theater subwoofers.
You can USE any speaker driver for any set up you want, ya just have to heed its design limits. If you use a pair of car 6x9 in a small truck box for speakers out on your patio, this would work, just not as P.A. speakers.
It all depends on what you want to do. Me, I would like to build some bass bins with a few of them Dayton High output subs to see how they would sound and for out door partys. Some day...
here is an example, ever heard of the compony Earthquake?
They have a sub called the "Magma" its a beast of a car sub when it came out. They user the same type of driver in there Home Theater subwoofers.
You can USE any speaker driver for any set up you want, ya just have to heed its design limits. If you use a pair of car 6x9 in a small truck box for speakers out on your patio, this would work, just not as P.A. speakers.
It all depends on what you want to do. Me, I would like to build some bass bins with a few of them Dayton High output subs to see how they would sound and for out door partys. Some day...
ok, just checking, well I think I've got my drivers picked out what'd you think?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/basket/purchase.cfm?&DID=7
I'll get this plate amps later cause that'll push the price up around $1700 all together with shipping.
And if I feel up too I may even double the # of woofers in that order.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/basket/purchase.cfm?&DID=7
I'll get this plate amps later cause that'll push the price up around $1700 all together with shipping.
And if I feel up too I may even double the # of woofers in that order.
Sorry bro, your shopping cart is empty. They use cookies to keep track of this stuff, that and your browser session as well. I explain this stuff all the time to people at work. I do tech support... the best way to show off would be to just post links or create a simple txt file in notepad and attach it.
oops, my bad.
here you go
woofers
mid range
compression drivers
and the waveguide that was suggested earlier.
here you go
woofers
mid range
compression drivers
and the waveguide that was suggested earlier.
Punkr,
I had given up on this whole thing, but I think a lot of people here will be able to get behind this selection. Maybe you are going to be a diplomat! You have taken suggestions from various people and come up with I think a viable system, IMHO! You will also end up with quality stuf that we can trust the specs on and do decent calcs with. Also that are worth reusing if you decide to try another design ever.
A lot of people will tell you you need a very powerful amp for pro drivers. Well, only if you are playing them at very high volume- well above what will destroy your hearing in any normal house. I know you think a powerful amp is cool, but these drivers aren't subwoofers or car subwoofers and they don't need that kind of power. But they will need big boxes- that's the tradeoff and a good one for you.
In my experience you could drive each stack with 150 watt amps and not be able to stay in the house. Do yourself and your wallet a favor and try the finished speaker with a receiver or borrowed amp of the power I mentioned.
You see, by going the pro driver route, you now will have extremely high efficiency speakers and you only need about a tenth the power you would need for home speakers.
Try it first!
variac
I had given up on this whole thing, but I think a lot of people here will be able to get behind this selection. Maybe you are going to be a diplomat! You have taken suggestions from various people and come up with I think a viable system, IMHO! You will also end up with quality stuf that we can trust the specs on and do decent calcs with. Also that are worth reusing if you decide to try another design ever.
A lot of people will tell you you need a very powerful amp for pro drivers. Well, only if you are playing them at very high volume- well above what will destroy your hearing in any normal house. I know you think a powerful amp is cool, but these drivers aren't subwoofers or car subwoofers and they don't need that kind of power. But they will need big boxes- that's the tradeoff and a good one for you.
In my experience you could drive each stack with 150 watt amps and not be able to stay in the house. Do yourself and your wallet a favor and try the finished speaker with a receiver or borrowed amp of the power I mentioned.
You see, by going the pro driver route, you now will have extremely high efficiency speakers and you only need about a tenth the power you would need for home speakers.
Try it first!
variac
From a specification point, thos are some pretty good picks.
I do have a suggestion, built passive crossovers first, full 3-way, and build them in an external box. Connect the x-overs with a this and this . that way when the funds are avalible one could go full active with a electronic crossover like this Behringer with 2 or 3 amps for better control. that way you can expaned your speaker system as you see fit. Besides, all the extra passive crossover parts could be used in another project some time...
Hope this is good advice...
I do have a suggestion, built passive crossovers first, full 3-way, and build them in an external box. Connect the x-overs with a this and this . that way when the funds are avalible one could go full active with a electronic crossover like this Behringer with 2 or 3 amps for better control. that way you can expaned your speaker system as you see fit. Besides, all the extra passive crossover parts could be used in another project some time...
Hope this is good advice...
Its probably true that Punkr would be better off with an active crossover than spending the money on big amps. Heck, he could probably use chip amps then!
Not only are active crossovers adjustable, but they make the speakers even MORE efficient , so even less power is required!
The single 18" is well matched to the efficiency of the mid, One is REALLY enough to start. If you later want to add the second woofer put it in a separate box uder the first box (with one 15" the 12" and the tweeter.) Have you even thought about how you could move a single piece speaker box 5' high that weighs well over 100 pounds? ( with 2 woofers it would be impossible to move. Look at pro PA rigs- they are modular so the big strong roadies can actually move them!
Have you thought about the fact that the tweeter is supposed to be at ear level? That means about 3' high for a seated person, 5' high for a standing one.. Probably you can get the tweeter at 5' if you have a single woofer, otherwise it will be at 6' plus- just silly...
Possibly you could put the mid above the tweeter....
Not only are active crossovers adjustable, but they make the speakers even MORE efficient , so even less power is required!
The single 18" is well matched to the efficiency of the mid, One is REALLY enough to start. If you later want to add the second woofer put it in a separate box uder the first box (with one 15" the 12" and the tweeter.) Have you even thought about how you could move a single piece speaker box 5' high that weighs well over 100 pounds? ( with 2 woofers it would be impossible to move. Look at pro PA rigs- they are modular so the big strong roadies can actually move them!
Have you thought about the fact that the tweeter is supposed to be at ear level? That means about 3' high for a seated person, 5' high for a standing one.. Probably you can get the tweeter at 5' if you have a single woofer, otherwise it will be at 6' plus- just silly...
Possibly you could put the mid above the tweeter....
Punkrockr:
Here is a system that you should read about carefully. Lots of essential information:
http://www.audioheritage.org/html/perspectives/drews-clues/1-intro.html
Here is a system that you should read about carefully. Lots of essential information:
http://www.audioheritage.org/html/perspectives/drews-clues/1-intro.html
tinitus said:
Its nice to be able to try out that sort of stuff, it also must be nice when you can settle down and enjoy a system for what it is, blemishes and all. Its rather like the fella who drinks a couple of pints and he's had enough, cheap and he enjoyed himself.
Regarding the sub, how about one that's flat to 12hz and does 110dB @ less than 10% THD inroom at 14hz 😉 Still not perfect but its profound, musical and utterly clean. Its good to get the input and help of others but that one I ended up designing as I still wasn't happpy. If I'd got rid of my compromise of small enclosures from the start then I'd have had a much easier time and that's why this latest sub is on the large size because that's the only way to get the job I needed done.
Designing subs is a piece of cake if you don't impose obvious restrictions, however designing subs that do low distortion, 10hz, and high SPL within a small enclosure is a challange because physics don't bend themselves easily to any man, it was fun trying though. 🙂
Variac said:
I posted a link to that system in post #43, but it was ignored! With used prices now I think you could build it fairly economically.
Rob.
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