So nothings set in stone. What would be the best enclosure for the 10Ps?
Learning a lot following your back and forth. Is it me or is everyone building MA Fullrange Canadian?
Learning a lot following your back and forth. Is it me or is everyone building MA Fullrange Canadian?
Yeah, they don't exactly disappear do they.😀
I don't think so. I have a feeling there are a lot of people building MA boxes that don't post here, maybe because they don't speak English.
jeff
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(Again, sorry for the OT.)
I found that a single A10.2 or A10P just doesn't have the "oomph" to remain coherent at higher SPLs. Add that to the fact that the Pensil design does not seem to provide a whole lot of damping and what I witnessed was Alpairs flapping around excessively for the amount of actual low end delivered in-room. Comparatively speaking, dual EL70s in a well-damped MLTL maintain their composure and seem far more "in control" at similar SPLs. This is why I am eager to put dual Alpair 10 drivers into a similar cabinet design. If there was a dual Alpair 10 FHXL design, I'd be mighty tempted to try it.
Full disclosure: I really have a hard time enjoying speakers with lackluster bass.
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I ran that for a while until my miniDSP died. I refuse to buy another, so it is back to pure FR now.
A very nice option with quite low WAF.
I really should let Monty have his thread back.
Aussies build them too! I have 10.3s in a Bob Brines A10-M10 MLTL and have nothing but praise for them.
Steve
Dave, what software are you using to simulate the Pensils, btw?
So, yeah. I guess it's now a case of choosing the right enclosure for the 10Ps. I had a look at Brine's A10-M10 and it looks good but I'd like to be able to swap the circular port for a slot one at the bottom.
Also most of the enclosures seem to have the driver at about 75CM off the ground. Seems a little low for a floorstanding speaker. Is there any way of tilting the driver up 10 to 15 degrees or so?
So, yeah. I guess it's now a case of choosing the right enclosure for the 10Ps. I had a look at Brine's A10-M10 and it looks good but I'd like to be able to swap the circular port for a slot one at the bottom.
Also most of the enclosures seem to have the driver at about 75CM off the ground. Seems a little low for a floorstanding speaker. Is there any way of tilting the driver up 10 to 15 degrees or so?
Monty,
Slot port should be doable - you can send an e-mail to Bob; or maybe a round port at the back if you don't want the port hole in the front?
Regarding driver height, that is something which is dictated by MLTL design consideration. Speaker designers (at least proper ones 🙂), optimize the driver height to minimize ripple, and the driver position tends to end up looking a bit low compared to the overall cabinet height. Pensil's might have the driver closer to the top albeit similar height from the ground, but they are a different alignment. If you really want to raise the driver height, you will have resort to a plinth of sorts. Again better check with Bob (in case you decide to go for his design) as to what height of plinth he would recommend.
The plinth can also help you get that 10-15 degree tilt - use slightly taller spikes for the front part, and shorter ones at the back.
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For the angle, another option is to build a rhombus, or simply cut angles on the bottoms of the side panels and cut the front and back panels to appropriate length before attaching the (larger) base.
FHXL looks to have an angle, by design.
FHXL looks to have an angle, by design.
Hmm, which goes lower it terms of bass? The A10-M10, FHXL, or Pensil 10P?
I'm a little nervous about a back port as they will be about 20cm close to the wall behind them.
I could probably tilt the Pensil 10P back a bit more and still maintain a fairly good balance.
I'm a little nervous about a back port as they will be about 20cm close to the wall behind them.
I could probably tilt the Pensil 10P back a bit more and still maintain a fairly good balance.
monty,
All should be close, but their respective designers would be able to comment best on that.
The FH-XL takes the A10P impressively low, and thought not the M10-A10, I have heard the Alp 10P in a similar sized MLTL where it was good too. The FH-XL is likely to throw a wider sound-stage, but the cabinet will be ~23 inches deep at the base.
All should be close, but their respective designers would be able to comment best on that.
The FH-XL takes the A10P impressively low, and thought not the M10-A10, I have heard the Alp 10P in a similar sized MLTL where it was good too. The FH-XL is likely to throw a wider sound-stage, but the cabinet will be ~23 inches deep at the base.
I use the MA 10.3 Golds in the FHXL; they do deep bass and sensible Rock volume in my 6m x 4m x2.5m room.
I built mine from the excellent kit by Louis Eastman.
And no I'm not Canadian or Australian but right here in England!
I built mine from the excellent kit by Louis Eastman.
And no I'm not Canadian or Australian but right here in England!
Scott uses a bunch of software to sim his enclosures, including some proprietary stuff… the graphs come out of MJK's worksheets.
dave
Probably FHXL. 20 cm off the back wall would be fine. A bit closer would work too. That is enuff for the ML-TLs too.
dave
Dave,
Could FHXL be turned sideways, and the driver mounted on the side? Or, is this not possible due to the configuration of the interior panel(s)? I am not familiar with the FHXL plan set.
Could FHXL be turned sideways, and the driver mounted on the side? Or, is this not possible due to the configuration of the interior panel(s)? I am not familiar with the FHXL plan set.
Hmmm. I see.
I wonder...
If the driver was positioned as high as possible on the side of the enclosure, and centred over the interior partition, it appears as though only a small piece of the interior partition would need to be removed. If done with some forethought, it could double as a (half-a$$ed) driver brace. The bulk of the interior partition would remain the original length.
Would this alteration compromise the design too much?
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