How Lampizator CD tube player sound?

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#3
I did something similar to my Philips CD650, a SRPP using a 6211, and I absolutely love it! Way better than my Sony CDP X555 ES & Audio Note DAC1..
At the moment I'm in the process of tweaking the I/V-resistor, might go for a 6N2P.
 
#4
Maybe even better...
Sims real good (especially PSRR and CMRR noise rejection).
Don't know for sure in real life, never got around to building it.

Any squiggliues you see are only cause I'm simultaneously
throwing 5V of noise at both 120Hz and 400Hz at it...
 

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#5
using a valve circuit to replace the output opamps or even indeed his digi-lampizator using a valve to by pass the standard sp-dif output, both work very well indeed.

However ready made valve buffers and valve preamps work equally well once the signal is captured off the DAC as lampizators
 
#7
I Lampized a JVC cd player using a seperate 6SN7 preamp, and also rebuilt the case from wood and aluminum, with a clear plexi glass cover to see inside. It both sounds good and looks good and all I spent money on was for the solid Oak side panels and the plexi glass, everything else was salvaged parts and a NOS 6SN7 biased with Red LED's.

For me this is the best CD player I have heard yet, so I can't wait to finnish the Lampizator mod with the Philips CD670.

Such a great site!
Lukasz Fikus Lampizator
 
#9
By "Lampizator" do you mean simply adding tube amplifiers after the D/A, or is this a specific circuit. I have not found anything by searching.

I've got some miniature 1AG4 power Pentodes that would be sweet due to their size, but the plate curves don't look that wonderful. One would have to run a really steep load-line at 41V on the plate unless I biased it at -4v on the grid with 1.8mA of anode current, if I interpret this data correctly I get a 2583 load line:

NJ7P Tube Database Search

Since the typical CD Rom Drive only uses +5 and +12, I would need to add a B+ supply (Flyback) to get 41V for the plate and screen.

Neat tube, but linearity doesn't look that great.
 
#13
I have been contemplating what kind of caps I should use to replace the 14 220nF surface mount caps around the TDA1541A with, got any good suggestions? I hear that Nichicon Muse are good in the power supply, I have 2 Gold tune 10,000uF 71V caps salvaged from a Sony amp and 2 330uF 50V BG caps that I purchased a couple of years ago.
 
#17
Well there is a lot of confusion on how this tube is called. As it's a Russian tube, it's marked in Cryllic. So to those of us who mostly read the latin alphabet, it looks like 6H6n
But that would actually translate as 6N6P in latin script. The last letter looks like an odd letter "n" in the latin alphabet, but it is P (Pi) in Cryllic. As in Greek. Π

I hope that makes sense! 😀
 
#19
Hi again,

I have check with my scope on my player.
The left signal is taken from dac output and the right signal is taken from the rca after amplified by tube.

It look like the signal clipped just after the dac. Any idea how to fix it?

My cd player dac is TDA1549T.
 

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#20
TheGimp said:
Thanks all.

I thought this might have been a way to improve the sound of computer CDrom drives to use them as reasonable audio CD Drives.

I see now it is about improving audiophile CD drive systems.
Click to expand...

I see your point, I actually have a bunch of old computer CDrom drives stashed away waiting to be Lampized or have their cheap output opa-amps removed for experimentation, but that may be for a more spacific thread yet to be created.... 😉
 
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