cleaning flux residue
I agree with member ( DANGUS) using acetone or nail polish remover,or anything with a high achohol content can possibly damage other components on pc board. soaking in achohol is a definite NO- NO. if there are a lot of other parts on board, (small variable resistors etc)
I have repaired almost every guitar amp and power amp that is
advailable . when replacing transistors or other parts I think it is
a CRIME to leave FLUX RESIDUE in the area that you repaired, along with fingerprints all over the nice shinny surface of the case
and cover. ISOPROPYL ACHOHOL (~90%) is ok, along with a small surface instrument to clip out the problem areas.
Also I will give another tip about using compressed air to clean out chassis and cases with a BOX FAN. don't try to see how fast you can made the fan go. and I know I am not the only one that has heard that high pitch sound, with loud crashing noise as the
blades spreaded out and comes to a sudden stop.
hope this helps some.
stan
I agree with member ( DANGUS) using acetone or nail polish remover,or anything with a high achohol content can possibly damage other components on pc board. soaking in achohol is a definite NO- NO. if there are a lot of other parts on board, (small variable resistors etc)
I have repaired almost every guitar amp and power amp that is
advailable . when replacing transistors or other parts I think it is
a CRIME to leave FLUX RESIDUE in the area that you repaired, along with fingerprints all over the nice shinny surface of the case
and cover. ISOPROPYL ACHOHOL (~90%) is ok, along with a small surface instrument to clip out the problem areas.
Also I will give another tip about using compressed air to clean out chassis and cases with a BOX FAN. don't try to see how fast you can made the fan go. and I know I am not the only one that has heard that high pitch sound, with loud crashing noise as the
blades spreaded out and comes to a sudden stop.
hope this helps some.
stan
I have used that water based pcb cleaning 'safewash/saferinse' combination some years ago.
Not cheap, but those circuits had to be absolutely clean.
Usually I do not clean boards after soldering, cause my solder does not leave very much or corrosive residues.
For removing a mess, qtip/toothbrush + isopropyl works for me.
regards
Not cheap, but those circuits had to be absolutely clean.
Usually I do not clean boards after soldering, cause my solder does not leave very much or corrosive residues.
For removing a mess, qtip/toothbrush + isopropyl works for me.
regards
About potentiometers, I've succesfully used Isopropanol (Isoprophyl Alcohol) all my years for cleaning everything in electronics, even for cleaning clogged potentiometers in old radios and amplifiers. Use a lot and try to spray inside the pots. Then suck dry with an old vacuum cleaner. None explosion yet 
True!!
Then ofcourse relube the pots with a very short spray of "contact lubricant"
JohanB
True!!Then ofcourse relube the pots with a very short spray of "contact lubricant"
JohanB
MJL21193 said:
Yes, it will be not so kind to the plastic tux on caps SO clean the solder side (assuming one-sided board), not the whole thing. A little on a toothbrush will cut through the grunge and make it sparling clean:
For general cleaning I've used automotive brake cleaner spray which is relatively cheap and easy to get. This doesn't seem to damage anything and cleans up old pots very well.
<OT on>
John,
the sudden change in your visage makes me think you've been spending too much time leaning over your PCB's while applying volatile hydrocarbons That's quite a facelift!
But that board - those are the On Semi thermal tracks aren't they?!? Looks like you're a couple of months ahead of me. Care to share? Mebbe a new thread?
Like, why is the diode on the leftmost tranny not hooked up? What's your thermal compensation scheme? etcetc
<OT off>
John,
the sudden change in your visage makes me think you've been spending too much time leaning over your PCB's while applying volatile hydrocarbons
That's quite a facelift!But that board - those are the On Semi thermal tracks aren't they?!? Looks like you're a couple of months ahead of me. Care to share? Mebbe a new thread?
Like, why is the diode on the leftmost tranny not hooked up? What's your thermal compensation scheme? etcetc
<OT off>
It's readily available everywhere on Earth. Varsol is Esso-branded 100% pure Kerosene (Esso is Exxon Canada).
I use isopropyl alcohol with a tooth brush and a small paint brush for those difficult to reach areas. However, as the alcohol evaporates, condensate forms on the board, well at least here in Hong Kong where the humidity is high.
So ... after a through alcohol brush, I put it under the tap for about a minute. Then I take a hair dryer to it for about 5 – 10 mins until it is perfectly dry…
Not sure how running water will affect some sensitive components but no problems with my boards, so far. One thing is for sure, my boards are spotless!!
I tried those expensive flux cleaners that give off an awful smell but they don't do as good a job and they leave a sticky layer after.
Of course, this will only work for water resistant parts....
Regards
TC
So ... after a through alcohol brush, I put it under the tap for about a minute. Then I take a hair dryer to it for about 5 – 10 mins until it is perfectly dry…
Not sure how running water will affect some sensitive components but no problems with my boards, so far. One thing is for sure, my boards are spotless!!
I tried those expensive flux cleaners that give off an awful smell but they don't do as good a job and they leave a sticky layer after.
Of course, this will only work for water resistant parts....
Regards
TC
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