hi ...
i am planning to convert my sealed main enclosures into ported enclosure ... now i am facing problem of how to create a flared port ... i am only using 1.5inch of diameter port ... my current concern now is due to my main speakers only 6inches ... do i really need to flare the ports or leave them unflared? please advice
if i do need to flare the port ... how do i do it on a MDF baffle? i am only pvc pipes as port now ...
thanks
i am planning to convert my sealed main enclosures into ported enclosure ... now i am facing problem of how to create a flared port ... i am only using 1.5inch of diameter port ... my current concern now is due to my main speakers only 6inches ... do i really need to flare the ports or leave them unflared? please advice
if i do need to flare the port ... how do i do it on a MDF baffle? i am only pvc pipes as port now ...
thanks
ok ... the problem is i dont have a router available. Any other options available besides getting a proper flare port unit? is pretty hard to find DIY audio accessories in my country here
The one recommendation I can add to the "do it by hand with a rasp/file" is make yourself a template out of a piece of thin cardboard that has the desired flare profile cut out of it. That way you can keep checking against it as you sneak up on the shape.
Other possibility is buy a flared port and cut a bigger hole.
Alternatively you can try a using an pipe size adapter as a port, maybe a 1.5" to 2" adapter.
Oon
Alternatively you can try a using an pipe size adapter as a port, maybe a 1.5" to 2" adapter.
Oon
If the port air velocity is below 17m/s at the desired power you don't need to flare the port. Besides the flare needs to be at both ends for best effect.
You can get away with higher air velocity but I wouldn't go above 34m/s.
If I'm reading this correctly you are using a 1.5" port for a 6" driver which is a bit small as 2" would be better for that size driver.
You can get away with higher air velocity but I wouldn't go above 34m/s.
If I'm reading this correctly you are using a 1.5" port for a 6" driver which is a bit small as 2" would be better for that size driver.
I used a "rasp" type file. You can match it to a drain pipe with a built in flare called a tail piece in the USA. These are sold for bathroom and kitchen drain pipe repairs; in the USA, the standard size for bathroom sink is 1 1/4 inch and the standard size for the kitchen sink is 1 1/2 inch. You probably have that available and the price is very cheap! The inside portion of the pipe can be cut to the correct length for tuning with hack saw. The material is just soft PVC plastic. I cut the inside at a 45 degree angle; not as sophisticated as an inside flare but it works quite well nonetheless.
see if this will open:
https://images.homedepot-static.com...everbilt-drains-drain-parts-c9803-64_1000.jpg
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drill a hole, then start with some sandpaper. 40 grit for starters, work your way up. your finger offers the best support possible. relax, dream if necessary. keep at it.
And now for something completely different . . . 😀
A flared opening could be made from clay on a potter's wheel or some kind of rotating base. A piece of wood with the appropriate radius cut along its edge could be used as a tool to shape the clay as it turns. Then dry it completely (heat, fire, etc.)
A flared opening could be made from clay on a potter's wheel or some kind of rotating base. A piece of wood with the appropriate radius cut along its edge could be used as a tool to shape the clay as it turns. Then dry it completely (heat, fire, etc.)
I guess you could stack up anulus’ of say 5mm ply or MDF of differing inside diameters to for the rough shape and then fill the steps with car body filler (bondo) and then sand to shape.
The port doesn't have to be round. And the flaring doesn't have to be an exact round shape. The port already profits from a 45° angle on two sides at both ends, side view looking similar to this:
That can easily be done with boards. To round off all the edges ofcourse helps too.
If you don't want to buy flared ports, I'd use a 2nd (or more) boards inside the enclosure at the port and use the file to round it off. You can do that with round or rectangle ports aswell. For optimum effect you'll have to do that on the inside too though.
Code:
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/ \That can easily be done with boards. To round off all the edges ofcourse helps too.
If you don't want to buy flared ports, I'd use a 2nd (or more) boards inside the enclosure at the port and use the file to round it off. You can do that with round or rectangle ports aswell. For optimum effect you'll have to do that on the inside too though.
i have some trouble to sourcing out automotive body filler in my area i am staying ... can i use wood filler instead? thanks
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