Uhh, shut up Joe , yer hurting my bussiness😀
Damn , maybe I heat it up with propane torch and see if I can tap it back. I spent big chunk of money to get a match for my tar filled 805 to sell the pair to Japanese so they can sell it back to banksters in US...I have no more space at current location.
Damn , maybe I heat it up with propane torch and see if I can tap it back. I spent big chunk of money to get a match for my tar filled 805 to sell the pair to Japanese so they can sell it back to banksters in US...I have no more space at current location.
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"Female " would be furious If she had known I post this all over the net hehe Thankfully only a few read DIY audio and the few of the few bother with horns and altecs.
The speakers are not good , meaning the basic concept is bad ,they are going to be equipped with Tannoy 10" in the middle. Custom cabinet costed $6k to build and original Tannoy cloth was imported from Britain (I heard it costed pretty penny too). Sorry for OT post. Back to altecs.
The speakers are not good , meaning the basic concept is bad ,they are going to be equipped with Tannoy 10" in the middle. Custom cabinet costed $6k to build and original Tannoy cloth was imported from Britain (I heard it costed pretty penny too). Sorry for OT post. Back to altecs.
lolAt first I was like 😀 but then I was like
Is this the same person who suggested he could use that overgrown soldering torch for applying SBS roofing the horns? limono my friend, methinks you might want to turn your thoughts to a blast furnace to straighten that baby out. Even a roofing trigger torch might leave you wanting.
Cal Weldon my friend , you behave like typical yankee although you're from the woods. If it isn't written in instruction manual for young roofers it can't possibly be done. Sure it can.
You heat up the lip of material to the melting point and stick to the horn,than you lift the other end and gradually melt the sbs applying to the surface, than you can use a knife , small pry bar to lift edges around perimeter and melt it until the tar flows from the edges when applying pressure .Wait for it to cool and clean it up (cutting it off) I used trigger torch to apply SBS to sides of cabinets melting the pads on the concrete floor and putting them on while still hot with few staples to ensure the edges won't lift.
You heat up the lip of material to the melting point and stick to the horn,than you lift the other end and gradually melt the sbs applying to the surface, than you can use a knife , small pry bar to lift edges around perimeter and melt it until the tar flows from the edges when applying pressure .Wait for it to cool and clean it up (cutting it off) I used trigger torch to apply SBS to sides of cabinets melting the pads on the concrete floor and putting them on while still hot with few staples to ensure the edges won't lift.
Great...just what we need... Polish guys running around with knives, crowbars, and torches. 😱
Reminds me of my own Polish family back in my youth.
Reminds me of my own Polish family back in my youth.
😀 where is fun if you can't get killed (or burned) heheh you're both right maybe not such a great idea after all..(although it worked for me ...)
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limono, that material is bronze. Cast. Obviously somewhat malleable.
You can't simply take it to a blacksmith - and yes there will be blacksmiths somewhere in or around Chicago... it's hard to get at the flange to wack it.
The flange is soldered/leaded onto the end of the horn.
One *might* desolder it and remove it. I'd not risk the rest of the end coming apart - not good.
If it were mine, I'd make a rig to straighten it.
Steel bar, about 3/4"- 1"thick. Three holes where the holes are now for the mounting of the throat adapter. Place bolts in there. Two choices, make an over size hole for the bent end and try to use a bolt THROUGH with a NUT and washers on the other side. OR skip the hole and clamp.
So with the bolt you'd tighten up until the metal pulled back - you could apply judicious propane to the point of the bend. OR using the clamp/vise, you'd use the clamp to do the trick.
I'd probably relieve some of the metal of the steel jig where the bend radius is, so that you can pull up past the flat point by a very little bit, so the springiness does not make it pull back from flat.
The bolt method may be needed because it will be hard to grab it otherwise, gotta try a see. A nice sized vise will put a lot more oomph than a clamp.
The other way is to put it on a hydraulic press - like the ones they sell for auto shops, machine shops, and jig it in on some steel bars or the like and just push down over the bend to flatten. That is easiest IF you have access to the press. If I had a choice I'd go with this myself. Harbor Freight sells 'em... maybe you need one? 😀
When you are all done, run a fine flat file over the surface, flat in order to take off any hump that might have been created... a dead perfect fit between the throat and horn is not required if you use a gasket of any sort.
_-_-bear
You can't simply take it to a blacksmith - and yes there will be blacksmiths somewhere in or around Chicago... it's hard to get at the flange to wack it.
The flange is soldered/leaded onto the end of the horn.
One *might* desolder it and remove it. I'd not risk the rest of the end coming apart - not good.
If it were mine, I'd make a rig to straighten it.
Steel bar, about 3/4"- 1"thick. Three holes where the holes are now for the mounting of the throat adapter. Place bolts in there. Two choices, make an over size hole for the bent end and try to use a bolt THROUGH with a NUT and washers on the other side. OR skip the hole and clamp.
So with the bolt you'd tighten up until the metal pulled back - you could apply judicious propane to the point of the bend. OR using the clamp/vise, you'd use the clamp to do the trick.
I'd probably relieve some of the metal of the steel jig where the bend radius is, so that you can pull up past the flat point by a very little bit, so the springiness does not make it pull back from flat.
The bolt method may be needed because it will be hard to grab it otherwise, gotta try a see. A nice sized vise will put a lot more oomph than a clamp.
The other way is to put it on a hydraulic press - like the ones they sell for auto shops, machine shops, and jig it in on some steel bars or the like and just push down over the bend to flatten. That is easiest IF you have access to the press. If I had a choice I'd go with this myself. Harbor Freight sells 'em... maybe you need one? 😀
When you are all done, run a fine flat file over the surface, flat in order to take off any hump that might have been created... a dead perfect fit between the throat and horn is not required if you use a gasket of any sort.
_-_-bear
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Yup, me and 2.5 million others are from the woods, yup that's us folks. 🙂
Oh I know it can, and I'm glad to hear you have the where with all to do so. Too many venture in on a wing and a prayer and then live with the consequences. I'm not kidding when I say, I saw a fellow trying to torch down his carport roof with a plumber's torch after reading about it on the internet. They forgot to mention the roofing torch and plumber's torch are a little different.
Onto the important question...why SBS? If you are going to attempt the damping of a horn with a sheet material I would stay away from the asphalt based products and use the EPDM detail membrane. It's self adhesive, it doesn't stink, it isn't messy, it will conform to compound curves and is easy to fix when things don't go quite as planned. Even an old torcher like me would have a hard time making a horn look good with SBS.
Cal,
What is your take on the liquid EDPM?
How is it for roofing? Life?
How would it be for damping spleakers??
_-_-bear
What is your take on the liquid EDPM?
How is it for roofing? Life?
How would it be for damping spleakers??
_-_-bear
Hi Bear,
I am not familiar with it. EPDM itself got run out of the market here due to the seam failures and any liquid membranes never did get a foothold due to inconsistant field applications. They work fine in a laboratory, not so well in the real world. They were used primarily between suspended slabs and whatever the topping was but didn't put up with cracked concrete so there's a ton of leaky underground parking here. They pretty much stopped using it 10 years or so ago.
90+ percent of flat roofing here is now SBS with a little of the others including TPO.
I am not familiar with it. EPDM itself got run out of the market here due to the seam failures and any liquid membranes never did get a foothold due to inconsistant field applications. They work fine in a laboratory, not so well in the real world. They were used primarily between suspended slabs and whatever the topping was but didn't put up with cracked concrete so there's a ton of leaky underground parking here. They pretty much stopped using it 10 years or so ago.
90+ percent of flat roofing here is now SBS with a little of the others including TPO.
.."Onto the important question...why SBS? If you are going to attempt the damping of a horn with a sheet material I would stay away from the asphalt based products and use the EPDM detail membrane. It's self adhesive, it doesn't stink, it isn't messy, it will conform to compound curves and is easy to fix when things don't go quite as planned. Even an old torcher like me would have a hard time making a horn look good with SBS."
You're correct . I used torch down because I had scraps of it. EPDM is probably much better choice although more expensive. Hard to make any damping to look sexy
You're correct . I used torch down because I had scraps of it. EPDM is probably much better choice although more expensive. Hard to make any damping to look sexy
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You just need to be creative. I remember getting kisses when I filled the top lips with wax and wicks. Late night music with candle light. Sure beat the bag of wet sand I usually use for the lips. 🙂
Goose bumps in a teenage crush fantasy type of way, or goosebumps in a scary story by the campfire kind of way? I have a feeling she looks more like a canadian lumberjack than you do 😀 😀
Man, that EPDM stuff is expensive! Campworld has it, as RV's apparently use it on thier roofs. Maybe if you went to a RV manufacturing plant, they might have some scraps you can buy for cheap 😀 I am going to google and see if there are any in SoCal.
Dicor Self-Adhesive Patch - Product - Camping World
Dicor Patchit Kit - Dicor Corp 402PR - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World
https://secure.websolhost.net/@epdmcoatings/order/
I had thought about mixing lead buckshot with windshield glue (black eurethane).
I just found this place in SoCal. And the name is cool 😀
http://www.rubbercal.com/epdm.html
Man, that EPDM stuff is expensive! Campworld has it, as RV's apparently use it on thier roofs. Maybe if you went to a RV manufacturing plant, they might have some scraps you can buy for cheap 😀 I am going to google and see if there are any in SoCal.
Dicor Self-Adhesive Patch - Product - Camping World
Dicor Patchit Kit - Dicor Corp 402PR - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World
https://secure.websolhost.net/@epdmcoatings/order/
I had thought about mixing lead buckshot with windshield glue (black eurethane).
I just found this place in SoCal. And the name is cool 😀
http://www.rubbercal.com/epdm.html
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Yup, back in the days I was full of Testosterone, she was dreamy to me.
Forgot about that part. I really didnt know as I don't have to pay for it. I would try a roofing supply place, not a camping outfit. You want the detail membrane.
Ummm...that's what my wife calls me when she gets in one of those, you know, 'funny' moods.
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