Well done Portugal! 🙁
I believe our over paid and over rated 'star' needs re-educating on how to kick a football on target 🙄 🙁
Carlos, I can't recall how you get into the ES11's but I remember the need to remove 4 very long bolts......... Have you got the open frame dedicated stands for them? They work best on those......... As for biwiring, this was one little 'speaker that benefited from two runs of cable, for whatever EE reason/theory 🙄
I believe our over paid and over rated 'star' needs re-educating on how to kick a football on target 🙄 🙁
Carlos, I can't recall how you get into the ES11's but I remember the need to remove 4 very long bolts......... Have you got the open frame dedicated stands for them? They work best on those......... As for biwiring, this was one little 'speaker that benefited from two runs of cable, for whatever EE reason/theory 🙄
fdegrove said:Data such as structural rigidity of the CDP, mass, resonances of the structure etc. Same for the surface it is placed on, etc, etc.
IOW, what may sound good for your system isn't necessarily good for someone else's. The art being to find a compromise area that's likely to be fine in most situations.
Cheers,😉
Frank, there are so many factors...
Imagine that my cdp on my house gives one result with sorbothane feet or spiks, and on yours it gives another one.
Imagine that the trafo of the CDP vibrates more at your home than in mine, because you have more AC mains voltage...
There's so many factors here, much more easy and reliable to try both solutions and listen.
NealG said:Well done Portugal! 🙁
I believe our over paid and over rated 'star' needs re-educating on how to kick a football on target 🙄 🙁
Thanks.😎
Beckham kicked a big piece of grass from the stadium of my Benfica.
I'll make him pay for that.😀
NealG said:Carlos, I can't recall how you get into the ES11's but I remember the need to remove 4 very long bolts......... Have you got the open frame dedicated stands for them? They work best on those......... As for biwiring, this was one little 'speaker that benefited from two runs of cable, for whatever EE reason/theory 🙄
I imagine you need (ideally) a special tool to remove those grill fixers, and the bolts of the metal bars will be behind them, but I'm not sure.
Oh, I had those big EPOS open-frame stands when I had big JBL speakers.

With these I have Standesign stands, those with 3 spikes, with a cross bar on the bottom, they are quite good for these speakers.
I bought them with the speakers too, payed 25 Euros extra.😀
You know what?
The guy that sold me the Epos 11s bought a pair Rega Jura speakers.😱
Hahahahaha!!!

What a downgrade!

People do everything just to have floorstanders, even if they're worse...

Ah! You remind me! My ES11 had the solid plastic 'anti-junior finger poking' grills. You had to remove them before you could listen
The later ones came with foam grills. On mine there where four rubber bungs into which the solid grills located, levering out the rubber bungs revealed the bolts beneath......

Mine has the foam grills, but I don't use them.
And I removed those velcro strips.
Sounds better, looks better.
So... I have the latter ones.😎
And I removed those velcro strips.
Sounds better, looks better.
So... I have the latter ones.😎
On mine there where four rubber bungs into which the solid grills located, levering out the rubber bungs revealed the bolts beneath......
You have jogged my memory Neal! That's how my freind got his 'open'. 😉
Nuuk said:You have jogged my memory Neal! That's how my freind got his 'open'. 😉
Mines are a little different, it seams they are the latest ones, they are similar to the ES12, here:
http://www.hifichoice.co.uk/archive/perl/366_printreview.htm
I've been told that Epos sold some "normal" grilles for the later ES11, the fixation is quite normal, as you can see on the ES12.
But mine had foam grilles, that attached to some velcro strips all around the speaker.

How do I open this?

There must be a way to remove those plastic pieces where the "normal" grilles fix (I suspect the screws are behind this), but there must be a special tool for that, I'm afraid that if I put a big screwdiver there I $##$/&%up the whole thing.😀
tbla said:
i/we have such a pcb ready, its expected delivered from production next week.
it's for the lm3886 and lt1083.
but no buffer because it's better to make a dedicated buffer pcb.
the pcb includes all - just add the trafo.
i will finnish the pcb with all parts and post photos.
then we will see how big the interest is........🙂
I plan on using the LM338 instead of the LT1083. The '338's are 2.00 at digikey and the 1083's are 12.00.
You are planning on offering stuffed boards? Any thoughts on just PCB's.
George
You are planning on offering stuffed boards? Any thoughts on just PCB's
oh - i only plan to offer the pcb without any parts, so buyers can decide for themselves how much they want to spend on parts.....🙂
what i meant was that the pcb is prepared for everything but the trafo.
tbla said:
oh - i only plan to offer the pcb without any parts, so buyers can decide for themselves how much they want to spend on parts.....🙂
what i meant was that the pcb is prepared for everything but the trafo.
Have you tested the Krell?😉
the fpb300 is not alive yet, it will take one more week....😡
but i tested the krell kps20i/hdcd..........😀
but i tested the krell kps20i/hdcd..........😀
tbla said:
oh - i only plan to offer the pcb without any parts, so buyers can decide for themselves how much they want to spend on parts.....🙂
what i meant was that the pcb is prepared for everything but the trafo.
I would like a pair also. One question on the buffer. I now use a dc coupled discrete buffer for a linestage. Is it really necessary to add another buffer to the input of the chip amp?
George
Inverting or non-inverting topology, I perfer the sound of these chips with an input (op-amp) buffer, and it should be close to the chip.
It's not that it needs it, it just sounds even better.😀
It's not that it needs it, it just sounds even better.😀
tbla said:but i tested the krell kps20i/hdcd..........😀
Hey!😱
You're dealing with expen$ive stuff!😱
😀
Mines are a little different
Yes Carlos, they are nasty things that explode! 😀
Are you sure that there is nothing on the 'face' of your speakers that could hide some screw or bolt? They must have been fixed together somehow! 😉
Nuuk said:Are you sure that there is nothing on the 'face' of your speakers that could hide some screw or bolt? They must have been fixed together somehow! 😉
Of course.😀
I suspect where the screws are, but to get there, there must be a trick, because I will probably make dents on the speaker if I try to take that /&%/$& off my way.

😀
(I suspect the screws are behind this),
no - the screws are hidden by the plasticring that surrounds the woofer.......scalpel please.....😉
this model has very visible screws and it's a very capable speaker too......(better than the epos's).......😉
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5705891613
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5705891613
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