When the Amp powers up, the protect led lights shortly. With less Current to load the rails the led lights just as long.
On Pin 20 thats SP-R there is 0,6V at the start, then 86,8V AC and 15,63V DC Black Probe at ground, 64,44V DC 87V AC Black Probe at -Rail.
On Pin 2 thats SP-L Disabled
Pin 2 and 20 6,3V DC 85V AC Black Probe at ground, 62,2V DC 86V AC Probe at -Rail
Pin 2 no remote, 0,165V DC 6V DC with remote. 6,26V DC at Pin 20
It has some delay till it starts driving the output.
On Pin 20 thats SP-R there is 0,6V at the start, then 86,8V AC and 15,63V DC Black Probe at ground, 64,44V DC 87V AC Black Probe at -Rail.
On Pin 2 thats SP-L Disabled
Pin 2 and 20 6,3V DC 85V AC Black Probe at ground, 62,2V DC 86V AC Probe at -Rail
Pin 2 no remote, 0,165V DC 6V DC with remote. 6,26V DC at Pin 20
It has some delay till it starts driving the output.
If you have 6.3v DC on pins 2 and 20, you should be seeing that on the speaker terminals but you checked there for DC earlier and found none.
With 6.3v DC at the speaker terminals, the amp should shut down.
With no remote, the amp should have no voltage anywhere on the secondary. Is the amp still producing rail voltage with no remote?
In the future, please keep the readings together but for each pin, have the values, each, on their own line. HAving all in a ling line makes it difficult (for me ) to read.
With 6.3v DC at the speaker terminals, the amp should shut down.
With no remote, the amp should have no voltage anywhere on the secondary. Is the amp still producing rail voltage with no remote?
In the future, please keep the readings together but for each pin, have the values, each, on their own line. HAving all in a ling line makes it difficult (for me ) to read.
Without remote it does nothing.
Without remote Pin 2 and 20 both have 0,170V DC.
With remote
0,037v DC at the output.
6,3V DC at Pin 2 and 20 Black Probe at Secondary Ground.
Without remote Pin 2 and 20 both have 0,170V DC.
With remote
0,037v DC at the output.
6,3V DC at Pin 2 and 20 Black Probe at Secondary Ground.
I don't understand the reason for the DC reading unless some sort of noise on the square wave is confusing your multimeter.
Did you say that you were going to replace both driver ICs and the outputs in the amp, regardless of what you find?
Do you have a switch that you could use to switch in place of the 1302 muting transistor? I'd like to determine whether the muting circuit is the problem but it's not always safe to power the amp without switching the SD terminal properly.
The switch would need to be insulated so you wouldn't make contact with the negative rail voltage on it.
Did you say that you were going to replace both driver ICs and the outputs in the amp, regardless of what you find?
Do you have a switch that you could use to switch in place of the 1302 muting transistor? I'd like to determine whether the muting circuit is the problem but it's not always safe to power the amp without switching the SD terminal properly.
The switch would need to be insulated so you wouldn't make contact with the negative rail voltage on it.
After some time the Inductors heat up so it seems like there is some DC voltage at that point or is that normal in Class-D Amps that the Filter heats up without output (real voltage at the speaker outputs)?
It is some heat, not burning the inductor down.
Plan is to use new Drivers at the end and new FET´s as one bank is not completely conform, but I´m not sure if it are really IRS21844 Driver IC´s anymore, not like Hifonics has much variance here.
Let´s just see what happens with out muting. So I would switch C E ?
I´ve got a switch, could just make some longer wires or solder it in directly with some heat shrinking tube.
I will do that at monday.
It is some heat, not burning the inductor down.
Plan is to use new Drivers at the end and new FET´s as one bank is not completely conform, but I´m not sure if it are really IRS21844 Driver IC´s anymore, not like Hifonics has much variance here.
Let´s just see what happens with out muting. So I would switch C E ?
I´ve got a switch, could just make some longer wires or solder it in directly with some heat shrinking tube.
I will do that at monday.
Yes, remove the 1302.
Connect the switch C-E.
If the loss of audio was the same regardless which IC was disabled, you can leave one disabled.
The switch has to be closed when the amp is powering up, then opened to allow the collector to rise (to about 5v over the negative rail) and allow audio to pass.
To power down, close the switch, pulling the collector to the negative rail, before powering down.
Does the amp ever lose audio using the switch?
The inductors have most of their loss at idle. The resistance of the wire and the current through the windings can increase the heating but not generally very much.
Yes, some inductors run very hot at idle. Better cores can make cooler running inductors but many amps are built to be as cheap as possible so better cores are not an option.
Connect the switch C-E.
If the loss of audio was the same regardless which IC was disabled, you can leave one disabled.
The switch has to be closed when the amp is powering up, then opened to allow the collector to rise (to about 5v over the negative rail) and allow audio to pass.
To power down, close the switch, pulling the collector to the negative rail, before powering down.
Does the amp ever lose audio using the switch?
The inductors have most of their loss at idle. The resistance of the wire and the current through the windings can increase the heating but not generally very much.
Yes, some inductors run very hot at idle. Better cores can make cooler running inductors but many amps are built to be as cheap as possible so better cores are not an option.
With muted output the current starts at 1,76A at 7:03 to 1,44A at 7:38.
The 15V 7815 7915 are getting hot as the current sinks, i put a heatsink under them and restarted.
8:07 1,51A relative stable.
8:08 2,54A Drive enabled
8:30 2,41A
8:54 2,41A
Drive stays enabled with the switch. No shutdown So far.
The 15V 7815 7915 are getting hot as the current sinks, i put a heatsink under them and restarted.
8:07 1,51A relative stable.
8:08 2,54A Drive enabled
8:30 2,41A
8:54 2,41A
Drive stays enabled with the switch. No shutdown So far.
You didn't ask for any more suggestions, so I don't know what you are going to do from here.
If you were asking for suggestions, I'd suggest removing R55 and reinstalling the 1302 but leave the switch connected and use the switch the same way. Never switch the amp on of off without disabling the audio. After it powers up, test the same way to see if the 1302 circuit (after R55) is causing the problem.
If you were asking for suggestions, I'd suggest removing R55 and reinstalling the 1302 but leave the switch connected and use the switch the same way. Never switch the amp on of off without disabling the audio. After it powers up, test the same way to see if the 1302 circuit (after R55) is causing the problem.
I desoldered all the transistors, one of them slowly switched on at the CE till the mute circuit engaged. Only my Multimeter at diode setting, it didn't measure O.L. out of circuit but 2,6V which slowly dropped without anything at the base.
Now it is running, thank you for the help Mr. Babin.
Now it is running, thank you for the help Mr. Babin.