Probably got the idea that this would be ok because ~$100 PRV/Selenium HF drivers outperform and outlast what they put in the lowest of the low end JBL. Yamaha are better than that, so a better driver is required.
I guess I can use B&C , Or beyma
But since there is no charring of the coil it's not overpowered failure, mechanical failure.
The original driver was cooked.
Bubbling in the coil glue and browning, plus there was a open circuit , the coil was open at some point.
I just want to rule out a bad amp, but as somebody commented already , even good systems when there are power blips lips and brownouts, there are cooked drivers , it happen.
So, to prevent that what about the passive crossover,at the driver terminals, or just get a bigger driver.
A bigger $300 3” coil 1.4” exit driver would still die if the amp hit it with 120Hz or repeated 25 volt pulses 200 ms wide. It’s gonna hit the phase plug. The more expensive the driver, the more you want that “backup” passive crossover, and the lower in frequency it can be and still be effective.
Those old Selenium drivers aren’t exactly low crossover point friendly. Even 1.7k can be a stretch for a 1” driver (1.75” coil). They take a lot of pounding crossed high or steep. Get something that will “tolerate” crossover as low as 1.2K and you shouldn’t have any trouble with it.
Those old Selenium drivers aren’t exactly low crossover point friendly. Even 1.7k can be a stretch for a 1” driver (1.75” coil). They take a lot of pounding crossed high or steep. Get something that will “tolerate” crossover as low as 1.2K and you shouldn’t have any trouble with it.
Probably the first step would be to power up the speaker and make your you measure less than 100mv DC on the hf driver leads. Was the original driver Eminence PSD2013-8?
If it was replaced with an alternate driver what is the model number? Just looking at your repair options.
If it was replaced with an alternate driver what is the model number? Just looking at your repair options.
Dude, what in all the world are you doing?
Once you get in the territory of blowing a compression driver thermally, especially through a limiter, you must have driven them to compression and distortion levels that are criminal! Compression drivers typically produce double digit percent distortion levels at low single wattages.. and to blow one, you'll end up in the triple digit percents.. meaning more distortion than actual music!
If your system can't play loud enough safely and cleanly, get a bigger one! You know there are rentals or leases too, if you can't afford an immediate purchase.
Yamaha never made them.. it's an Eminence driver. Did you even look at the link I posted in response 14?
When that blow the limiters did not turned on, I was at around 50% gas , maybe is there DC or just a going bad amplifier , those suppose to be class D.
Idk if that was the original.
Original driver coil was bubbled, this driver do not bubbled but shattered , that means mecanical failure by over excursion because too much low frequency hitted the driver, right ?
PRV 280ti
https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-Audio-D280Ti-B-1-Titanium-Horn-Driver-8-Ohm-2-3-Bolt-294-2828
The D220 is a better driver than that (at twice the price), and I still wouldn’t replace an Eminence PSD2002 or one of its newer derivatives with it. The D220 is good at 2KHz and up, 24 dB/oct, 2.5 KHz 12 dB/oct. They even sound stressed crossed lower. The JBL HF drivers people replace with these are a joke with a 1.4” VC (and handle maybe 10 watts thermal load).
You may be thinking 2200, which is a phenolic diaphragm. The 220 is the Selenium now “by JBL”. Good driver, but only really suitable for being paired with a 10”, or use as a dedicated tweeter in a 3 way. It would hold up at least for a while at 1.7k but you’d notice the stress. They’ve been tried in the old Yamaha Club series (1.7k, passive box) without success and people went back to the PSD2002, which was more expensive at the time. They are the go to replacement for those junk JRX. JBL could have just used them, but would have added $100 to the retail price. I’ve got them (well, the old legacy D210) in my 15” 3 ways and my 10” vocal wedge/DJ monitors. PRV grew out of the ashes of Harman’s acquisition of Selenium, so there’s a huge resemblance to many of the old legacy product. Most of their newer product is aimed more at the stupid-power car audio market. Hence those tacky colored waveguides.
i do not give a da....n 4 car audio, ( hope BP1 do not read this LOL ) 🤣, PRV used to have lens for line arrays, they discontinued them.
So, from what PRV offers now, is there anything doable for PA ?
speaking of HF drivers
So, from what PRV offers now, is there anything doable for PA ?
speaking of HF drivers
Much of it is do-able for PA. But don’t expect miracles at those price points. I’m sure there is a dance club or two in Rio with PRV drivers.
They do seem to be marketing their 18” PA subs and 12” “midranges” for those “vans full of speakers”. While making the tweeters as loud and flashy as possible.
They do seem to be marketing their 18” PA subs and 12” “midranges” for those “vans full of speakers”. While making the tweeters as loud and flashy as possible.
i have simmed the PRV 15SW2000 15" driver on some cabinets from here and looks pretty nice
but getting back to the HF drivers
what about the ones that are 100+ USD 2" exit
like this one
https://prvaudio.com/products/d4400ti/
but i do not think it will fit in the lens, and maybe will touch the back of the plate amp
and speaking of passive protection,
what about the capacitor to filter junk below 2kHz
do i need to make it second order ( cap with an inductor )
in case of those nasty LF spikes that like to shatter diaphragms
but getting back to the HF drivers
what about the ones that are 100+ USD 2" exit
like this one
https://prvaudio.com/products/d4400ti/
but i do not think it will fit in the lens, and maybe will touch the back of the plate amp
and speaking of passive protection,
what about the capacitor to filter junk below 2kHz
do i need to make it second order ( cap with an inductor )
in case of those nasty LF spikes that like to shatter diaphragms
Last edited:
the other one that have similar bolt pattern is this one
https://prvaudio.com/products/d290py-b/
this one have 4" coil
https://prvaudio.com/products/d4400ti-nd/
https://prvaudio.com/products/d290py-b/
this one have 4" coil
https://prvaudio.com/products/d4400ti-nd/
Last edited:
The D4400ti appears to be a 2 inch exit driver. I thought the original driver was a 1 inch exit driver using either two or three bolts to mount rather than the usual 18 threads per inch threaded horn.
The D4400ti would take more abuse compared to the original Eminence driver. It would need to fit the horn though.
The original Eminence driver had a two inch voice coil and a 1 inch exit. This means the driver has a 4:1 compression ratio when we think of voice coil and exit area.
My current assumptions about this speaker is it contains two amplifiers in a bi-amp with a DSP filter between the 15 inch woofer and the horn. The horn is molded to fit the cabinet and replacing the horn is not possible. In the past the original driver may have been damaged by excessive power. The second driver was likely damaged by lower frequency signals rather than excessive power. The DSP has some well though out filtering for the drivers that ensures good sound and has a fairly fast rolloff for the HF driver.
You have a few options here
Buy a D280T1 and add some sort of protection filter. You may find there is a fault with the HF amp and may need to abandon the speaker or amps.
Buy the D4400ti and replace the horn if the existing horn is a 1 inch exit. Still add a protection filter in either case.
The D4400ti would take more abuse compared to the original Eminence driver. It would need to fit the horn though.
The original Eminence driver had a two inch voice coil and a 1 inch exit. This means the driver has a 4:1 compression ratio when we think of voice coil and exit area.
My current assumptions about this speaker is it contains two amplifiers in a bi-amp with a DSP filter between the 15 inch woofer and the horn. The horn is molded to fit the cabinet and replacing the horn is not possible. In the past the original driver may have been damaged by excessive power. The second driver was likely damaged by lower frequency signals rather than excessive power. The DSP has some well though out filtering for the drivers that ensures good sound and has a fairly fast rolloff for the HF driver.
You have a few options here
Buy a D280T1 and add some sort of protection filter. You may find there is a fault with the HF amp and may need to abandon the speaker or amps.
Buy the D4400ti and replace the horn if the existing horn is a 1 inch exit. Still add a protection filter in either case.
i will look in to the parts and values to make a 2khz HP filter
maybe i will repurpose those as monitors 🙂
Looks like a defective piece of titanium.
If the shattering was due to excursion alone, there would be impressions of the phase plug.
Measure the output of the amp to rule it out as the cause.
Putting a capacitor on a defective amp would be like lipstick on a pig.