Probably got the idea that this would be ok because ~$100 PRV/Selenium HF drivers outperform and outlast what they put in the lowest of the low end JBL. Yamaha are better than that, so a better driver is required.
I guess I can use B&C , Or beyma
But since there is no charring of the coil it's not overpowered failure, mechanical failure.
The original driver was cooked.
Bubbling in the coil glue and browning, plus there was a open circuit , the coil was open at some point.
I just want to rule out a bad amp, but as somebody commented already , even good systems when there are power blips lips and brownouts, there are cooked drivers , it happen.
So, to prevent that what about the passive crossover,at the driver terminals, or just get a bigger driver.
A bigger $300 3” coil 1.4” exit driver would still die if the amp hit it with 120Hz or repeated 25 volt pulses 200 ms wide. It’s gonna hit the phase plug. The more expensive the driver, the more you want that “backup” passive crossover, and the lower in frequency it can be and still be effective.
Those old Selenium drivers aren’t exactly low crossover point friendly. Even 1.7k can be a stretch for a 1” driver (1.75” coil). They take a lot of pounding crossed high or steep. Get something that will “tolerate” crossover as low as 1.2K and you shouldn’t have any trouble with it.
Those old Selenium drivers aren’t exactly low crossover point friendly. Even 1.7k can be a stretch for a 1” driver (1.75” coil). They take a lot of pounding crossed high or steep. Get something that will “tolerate” crossover as low as 1.2K and you shouldn’t have any trouble with it.
Probably the first step would be to power up the speaker and make your you measure less than 100mv DC on the hf driver leads. Was the original driver Eminence PSD2013-8?
If it was replaced with an alternate driver what is the model number? Just looking at your repair options.
If it was replaced with an alternate driver what is the model number? Just looking at your repair options.
Dude, what in all the world are you doing?
Once you get in the territory of blowing a compression driver thermally, especially through a limiter, you must have driven them to compression and distortion levels that are criminal! Compression drivers typically produce double digit percent distortion levels at low single wattages.. and to blow one, you'll end up in the triple digit percents.. meaning more distortion than actual music!
If your system can't play loud enough safely and cleanly, get a bigger one! You know there are rentals or leases too, if you can't afford an immediate purchase.
Yamaha never made them.. it's an Eminence driver. Did you even look at the link I posted in response 14?
When that blow the limiters did not turned on, I was at around 50% gas , maybe is there DC or just a going bad amplifier , those suppose to be class D.
Idk if that was the original.
Original driver coil was bubbled, this driver do not bubbled but shattered , that means mecanical failure by over excursion because too much low frequency hitted the driver, right ?
PRV 280ti
https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-Audio-D280Ti-B-1-Titanium-Horn-Driver-8-Ohm-2-3-Bolt-294-2828
The D220 is a better driver than that (at twice the price), and I still wouldn’t replace an Eminence PSD2002 or one of its newer derivatives with it. The D220 is good at 2KHz and up, 24 dB/oct, 2.5 KHz 12 dB/oct. They even sound stressed crossed lower. The JBL HF drivers people replace with these are a joke with a 1.4” VC (and handle maybe 10 watts thermal load).