Thanks for the input, ichiban.
Did the homework - General info on TP5-TP8
I am not going to fight this problem, which seems like something abnormal in the BBB power management system (TI TPS65217C PMIC). I will simply add a small $3 external charge circuit to the battery and use that also to trickle-charge external devices like the tablet that will control the system.
Update on the previous battery question:
This behavior was observed with a LiPo battery plus 5v I/O & protection circuit connected to the Hermes.
None of this undesirable behavior occurs after changing to a protected LiPo battery operating at 3.X volts.
This behavior was observed with a LiPo battery plus 5v I/O & protection circuit connected to the Hermes.
None of this undesirable behavior occurs after changing to a protected LiPo battery operating at 3.X volts.
Hi
I have had the BBB with Botic/Volumio running with M2tech USB to SPIF to the BIIIse for quite a long time now and it works perfect.
Last week i got time to put the Cronus/Hermes together with the rest and tonight it was powered up for the first time.
Music came out of the setup at first try, wonderful..... for about 2 minutes then it start to loose lock, the interval was increasing and after 30sec. only sporadic dimmed flash in the lock LED.
Tried to restart/reboot several times with no luck.
Went away for an hour and when i returned I started it up again and plays music again for 2 minutes and then start to loose lock.
Tried to set sw1:5-7 to off with no effect.
The tridents are fine and the Placid HD supplies the DAC and Cronus at 5,2Vdc.
BBB and Hermes is supplied from a quality switchmode.
Cronus and DAC is connected with uFL.
Any ideas ?
I have had the BBB with Botic/Volumio running with M2tech USB to SPIF to the BIIIse for quite a long time now and it works perfect.
Last week i got time to put the Cronus/Hermes together with the rest and tonight it was powered up for the first time.
Music came out of the setup at first try, wonderful..... for about 2 minutes then it start to loose lock, the interval was increasing and after 30sec. only sporadic dimmed flash in the lock LED.
Tried to restart/reboot several times with no luck.
Went away for an hour and when i returned I started it up again and plays music again for 2 minutes and then start to loose lock.
Tried to set sw1:5-7 to off with no effect.
The tridents are fine and the Placid HD supplies the DAC and Cronus at 5,2Vdc.
BBB and Hermes is supplied from a quality switchmode.
Cronus and DAC is connected with uFL.
Any ideas ?
This morning I removed the Cronus from the DAC and re-anrranged the uFL into a more "relax" routing and the music start playing perfectly.
After 3-4 minutes not touching anything just looking at the lock LED then it start blinking faster and faster and after 20sec. no music and no lock LED.
My first thought was that is a thermal problem like something shuts down do to heat but all components are cold and not even close to be warm.
The only thing getting warm is the heatsink close to the AC inlet on the Placid HD.
The output voltage is 5,2Vdc
R1 550mV
R2 90mV
The AC ripple on the DC outlet is 5mVac compared to the bipolar Placid it seems a little high.
I will try to use two lab power supply and see if it make any difference.
I have removed the XO trident regulator but how do I know if the BBB are running on the Cronus clock or its own ?
In the volumio setup I have selected Botic driver from the menu.
All suggestions are welcome 🙂
After 3-4 minutes not touching anything just looking at the lock LED then it start blinking faster and faster and after 20sec. no music and no lock LED.
My first thought was that is a thermal problem like something shuts down do to heat but all components are cold and not even close to be warm.
The only thing getting warm is the heatsink close to the AC inlet on the Placid HD.
The output voltage is 5,2Vdc
R1 550mV
R2 90mV
The AC ripple on the DC outlet is 5mVac compared to the bipolar Placid it seems a little high.
I will try to use two lab power supply and see if it make any difference.
I have removed the XO trident regulator but how do I know if the BBB are running on the Cronus clock or its own ?
In the volumio setup I have selected Botic driver from the menu.
All suggestions are welcome 🙂
The lab power supply did not change a thing.
I removed the spacers holding the Cronus on top of the Hermes resulting the connectors could get 1-2mm together and then the lock LED start flashing and music starts playing when the LED was on.
I lower the supply voltage from 5.2Vdc to 5.0Vdc and then it start to play continusly for 3-4 minutes and the it start to loose lock again.
Lowered the supply voltage to 4.86Vdc@440mA and it locks again and played without dropouts for 15minutes and still play.
The 1.2Vdc Trident measures 1.16Vdc and Q2 gets warmer than the others.
The dual Trident measures 3.42Vdc and QP4 get warmer than the others.
Where does the supply to the input selector circuit comes from ?
The 4 IC´s here has been replaced because of ESD damage.
I was thinking there might be something to chase here...
Best regards
Chris
I removed the spacers holding the Cronus on top of the Hermes resulting the connectors could get 1-2mm together and then the lock LED start flashing and music starts playing when the LED was on.
I lower the supply voltage from 5.2Vdc to 5.0Vdc and then it start to play continusly for 3-4 minutes and the it start to loose lock again.
Lowered the supply voltage to 4.86Vdc@440mA and it locks again and played without dropouts for 15minutes and still play.
The 1.2Vdc Trident measures 1.16Vdc and Q2 gets warmer than the others.
The dual Trident measures 3.42Vdc and QP4 get warmer than the others.
Where does the supply to the input selector circuit comes from ?
The 4 IC´s here has been replaced because of ESD damage.
I was thinking there might be something to chase here...
Best regards
Chris
Chris, A shot in the dark but I don't use U.Fl connectors and I don't have any problems. If your components are unmounted, perhaps placing cronus and BIII very close together and testing a direct-soldered connection is worthwhile. Elsewhere, Brian has cautioned that too many attachment/removals of the U.Fl connectors can cause problems.
Hi Francolargo Yes I have been reading the same but I have only attached the cables ones and then left them inserted.
I will try to solder a wire connection instead but I think it has something to do with the supply, when I keep it on 4,5Vdc then it is steady as a rock, no loss of lock at all.
D2 on the dual trident is significant more dimmed than the rest of the LED´s.
If I increase the voltage just op to 4,9Vdc then D2 are fully lit but lock is lost.
Best regards
Chris
I will try to solder a wire connection instead but I think it has something to do with the supply, when I keep it on 4,5Vdc then it is steady as a rock, no loss of lock at all.
D2 on the dual trident is significant more dimmed than the rest of the LED´s.
If I increase the voltage just op to 4,9Vdc then D2 are fully lit but lock is lost.
Best regards
Chris
Also are you running sync or async?
if you are running in sync mode you need to open up the DPLL (make the bandwidth very high) so that it freewheels.
Try setting the DPLL to high and 128X.
Try that first - otherwise...
What version are the tridents? It sounds like you may have a dead trident. You could also have a current starved 1.2V trident. You can add ~27R resistor at R4 and that will give you a bit more current.
if you are running in sync mode you need to open up the DPLL (make the bandwidth very high) so that it freewheels.
Try setting the DPLL to high and 128X.
Try that first - otherwise...
What version are the tridents? It sounds like you may have a dead trident. You could also have a current starved 1.2V trident. You can add ~27R resistor at R4 and that will give you a bit more current.
Last edited:
Hi Russ
Thank you for your prompt answer.
My intention was to run sync as I have removed the xo trident and installed the MCLK uFL but I am not sure if I need to do something else ?
The Trident version is 3.0.
When you said add 27ohm is that parallel over R4 ?
Once again thanks for your support.
Best regards
Chris
Thank you for your prompt answer.
My intention was to run sync as I have removed the xo trident and installed the MCLK uFL but I am not sure if I need to do something else ?
The Trident version is 3.0.
When you said add 27ohm is that parallel over R4 ?
Once again thanks for your support.
Best regards
Chris
I saw it this morning, I will add the resistor and keep you guys updated.
Thanks for your support.
Br
Chris
Thanks for your support.
Br
Chris
Hi
I mount the resistor and powered the DAC up and it did lock immediately at 5.2V, so happy I was 🙂
Switch the DAC off, set SPDIF auto detect to off and bandwidth to max.
Turned on and no lock, WTF ?
Reduced the voltage to 5,0V and then i had lock again.
After a couple of minutes it stop again.
Reduced the voltage to 4,8V and then it locked and was stable.
So the 27 ohm over the 1.2V Trident did increase the voltage where it was stable from 4,5V to 4,8V.
The Trident Uout is 1.16V and it make no difference if IP_S are shorted or not.
Q2 is signifcant warmer than normal.
It need to have Uin at 5.6V before The Trident reach 1.2V. (only did this short)
When I switch the DAC on and it don´t lock then mute LED is on and after a while it turns of and lock LED flash very weak/short until I reduce the supply and then lock LED turns on.
My plan was to replace the uFL with 0 ohm resistors but what about the master clock should I leave uFL on this one ?
How do I address the current draw from the 1.2V Trident ?
Is one Placid HD sufficient for both the DAC and Cronus or should I look for a second Placid for the Cronus ?
If it is ok with one, what current should be shunted ?
Thank you all for taking your time, I really appreciate it.
Best regards
Chris
I mount the resistor and powered the DAC up and it did lock immediately at 5.2V, so happy I was 🙂
Switch the DAC off, set SPDIF auto detect to off and bandwidth to max.
Turned on and no lock, WTF ?
Reduced the voltage to 5,0V and then i had lock again.
After a couple of minutes it stop again.
Reduced the voltage to 4,8V and then it locked and was stable.
So the 27 ohm over the 1.2V Trident did increase the voltage where it was stable from 4,5V to 4,8V.
The Trident Uout is 1.16V and it make no difference if IP_S are shorted or not.
Q2 is signifcant warmer than normal.
It need to have Uin at 5.6V before The Trident reach 1.2V. (only did this short)
When I switch the DAC on and it don´t lock then mute LED is on and after a while it turns of and lock LED flash very weak/short until I reduce the supply and then lock LED turns on.
My plan was to replace the uFL with 0 ohm resistors but what about the master clock should I leave uFL on this one ?
How do I address the current draw from the 1.2V Trident ?
Is one Placid HD sufficient for both the DAC and Cronus or should I look for a second Placid for the Cronus ?
If it is ok with one, what current should be shunted ?
Thank you all for taking your time, I really appreciate it.
Best regards
Chris
Why don't you post some pictures in a support thread - I think that might help me get a better idea of the situation. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
Cheers!
Russ
Hi Russ
I just replaced the 3 pieces uFL with 0 ohm resistors and the master uFl with a new cable.
Started up at 5.2V and it did lock right away and have not lost it since.
Switch of and on and it locks like it have never done anything else.
Trident is 1.7V, Q1 and Q2 is warm but maybe they have always been and I haven´t noticed it because it has just been working 🙂
@Francolargo You where spot on 🙂
I will keep you guys updated.
Thanks
I just replaced the 3 pieces uFL with 0 ohm resistors and the master uFl with a new cable.
Started up at 5.2V and it did lock right away and have not lost it since.
Switch of and on and it locks like it have never done anything else.
Trident is 1.7V, Q1 and Q2 is warm but maybe they have always been and I haven´t noticed it because it has just been working 🙂
@Francolargo You where spot on 🙂
I will keep you guys updated.
Thanks
Connections
Hi,
I have recently got my hermes + cronus with two rhea modules. I am feeding a B3 from a BBB. I was rather puzzled when I realized there was no documentation...
I have installed the 4pin connector on both the hermes and the BBB. I have a few questions:
1) As far as voltage supplies are concerned, do I understand correctly that I just need to provide a 3.3-3.7v battery supply to the Hermes? Its dirty side gets 5v from the BBB and the cronus 3.3v from the B3. I have read about some resistor related to charging the hermes battery from the BBB, but right now I would want to charge it separately. Do I need to set some jumper? If so which one?
2) Brian included some plastic washers. I could not find the beginning of the thread mentioning them. What are they for?
3) Do I understand correctly that I should only solder R5-7 to achieve this configuration?Buffalo III PCM+DSD connection
Thank you in advance and best wishes for the coming festivities
Giulio
Hi,
I have recently got my hermes + cronus with two rhea modules. I am feeding a B3 from a BBB. I was rather puzzled when I realized there was no documentation...
I have installed the 4pin connector on both the hermes and the BBB. I have a few questions:
1) As far as voltage supplies are concerned, do I understand correctly that I just need to provide a 3.3-3.7v battery supply to the Hermes? Its dirty side gets 5v from the BBB and the cronus 3.3v from the B3. I have read about some resistor related to charging the hermes battery from the BBB, but right now I would want to charge it separately. Do I need to set some jumper? If so which one?
2) Brian included some plastic washers. I could not find the beginning of the thread mentioning them. What are they for?
3) Do I understand correctly that I should only solder R5-7 to achieve this configuration?Buffalo III PCM+DSD connection
Thank you in advance and best wishes for the coming festivities
Giulio