• Disclaimer: This Vendor's Forum is a paid-for commercial area. Unlike the rest of diyAudio, the Vendor has complete control of what may or may not be posted in this forum. If you wish to discuss technical matters outside the bounds of what is permitted by the Vendor, please use the non-commercial areas of diyAudio to do so.

Hermes-BBB/Botic cape for BeagleBone Black

I switched using a small relay, via a GPIO, this was with a Arduino though

Finally got I2C working with rotary encoder for volume control 🙂
The only thing missing now is to figure out how to control IP_S on B3SE.
Is it ok to use a GPIO directly, or is it a bad idea since it will break the isolation between BBB and dac? Any better solution?
 
I'm working on a BIIISE build with the Hermes-BBB and Cronus and was curious if there are any downsides (or benefits) to using one Reflektor-D to power the Buffalo, Cronus, and Hermes clean-side versus having two separate supplies: one for the DAC and one for Cronus + Hermes.

If it makes a difference, my current plan is to run the DAC in synchronous mode.

Single power supply for these should be OK if Hermes & Cronus is powered via BIIISE pins.

Thanks miero! Just to confirm, the best way of powering the Cronus + Hermes combo would be hooking the Cronus up to the +3.3V and ground external I/O pins on the BIIISE?
 
Dear Russ,
No matter what I do, I can't get the Hermes LEDs to lit, nor getting the reclocked BBB to work...
I tried several ways of powering the system, non worked.
When I feed the BBB with the Hermes' 5V terminal, it doesn't boot at all.

Any idea ?
 
Yep, it boots flawlessly from its USB.
I don't have a 5V wall wart to try, but feeding 5V from the Hermes side isn't working.
I don't suspect I have fried something, I have worked some times on the BBB with Hermes and Cronus attached, but not powered.
 
No - it needs ~5V not 3.3V. 🙂

I think Miero was meaning the VD supply - on the B3 that supply is brought out to a pin on the digital input header.

I thought that seemed like it might be a miss-match. 🙂

Thanks Russ. So do you think I should run two sets of wires from the Reflektor (one to BIIISE, one to Hermes), daisy chain from BIIISE to Hermes (or vise-versa), or just use two separate Reflektor supplies?

Since I'm planning on running the Buffalo in synchronous mode I wasn't sure if one way of supplying power would be superior to another, or if synchronous is even a factor in the power equation other than needing one less Trident.
 
I wanted to ask a question concerning the battery again:

On the first page you say:
The Hermes comes with a 10K resistor across the NTC terminals for batteries that are self protected against overcharging/current/discharging - LiPo type "062535" (search ebay) are suggested. 250-500ma is more than adequate. This is the only type of battery we recommend!!!

The 062535 I can only find somewhere in Asia.
So I looked further in the thread and there I found, that I can use any battery (3,7V, LiPo) that has a over- and undercurrent and charging protection. Is this correct?

I wanted to be sure because any battery with protection is easy to find anywhere on the planet, but I don't want my expensive DAC to be fried when the LiPo catches fire. From this point of view another battery time would be preferred, but as I understand is this a design choise of the BBB team.

What is the maximum charging current? I ask this to chose a battery so that the charging current is max 1C for the battery. And of cause, the smaller the battery the better, because here it's just a energy source for a few seconds and smaller is saver.

Thanks for answering!
Matthias
 
If I may add another battery question: J1 needs to be in place to charge the battery via Hermes. However, with J1 in place, the BBB 5v barrel connection doesn't work. If I wanted to normally use a decent power supply and connection into BBB, but also retain the ability to use the 5v barrel connector on BBB in some situations, what would be the best configuration to power Hermes/BBB? [It is simple enough to add a separate battery charge circuit, which seems stable and reliable.]
 
I use the 5V barrel connection to power and J1 is shorted?😕

Interesting! With my boards running stably and 5v into the barrel connector, I can use a wire to short the J1 pads and the result is that the BBB immediately reboots. If J1 is bridged by solder the operating system is never established. Using a backup BBB, I see that this behavior likely depends on whether TP5-TP8 on BBB is linked to Hermes (next to the J1 pads) via the square 4-pin connector. Without that 4-pin connection, shorting J1 has no effect on the BBB. I don't recall reading what TP5-TP8 provide to Hermes. Is that connection an error on my part?

BTW, I have taken caution to insulate the top of the aluminum standoff from the BBB up to the underside of Hermes - the one nearest the BBB barrel connector. The aluminum from the standoff could short the power trace on the under side of Hermes.
 
Last edited:
Interesting! With my boards running stably and 5v into the barrel connector, I can use a wire to short the J1 pads and the result is that the BBB immediately reboots. If J1 is bridged by solder the operating system is never established. Using a backup BBB, I see that this behavior likely depends on whether TP5-TP8 on BBB is linked to Hermes (next to the J1 pads) via the square 4-pin connector. Without that 4-pin connection, shorting J1 has no effect on the BBB. I don't recall reading what TP5-TP8 provide to Hermes. Is that connection an error on my part?

BTW, I have taken caution to insulate the top of the aluminum standoff from the BBB up to the underside of Hermes - the one nearest the BBB barrel connector. The aluminum from the standoff could short the power trace on the under side of Hermes.

Strange indeed. I have J1 pads shorted, soldered, the 4-pin connector is installed, and I power the BBB via the 5V barrel connector. This is the configuration I have been using since June. Starts up and shuts down fine, with one exception, when shut down two of the four blue leds on the BBB stay lit, steady not blinking.
When I read your insulating of the standoff 'tween the BBB & Hermes I thought perhaps that was keeping the blue leds on. So, I completely removed that post to check it out. Didn't make a difference, leds still on after shutdown.