No skin off my teeth, he he.
Its a tip for anyone who wants to try it; something that's IMO very worth doing.
Its a tip for anyone who wants to try it; something that's IMO very worth doing.
Was there anything special you did with your reg? While there're no max specs, a typical set of parts doesn't seem to be recommended for much over 300mA, if that. I almost did that, with a bit more anemic trafo, and the DIYAudio store board, but was a bit hesitant.Simple but good:
40VA myra isolation transformer (2 x 12v) + bridge rect + 2,200 uf 25V Rubycon ZL cap + Jung super-regulator -> BBB.
Hi bloodfromastone,
If I understand correctly, you mean this reg, Super Regulator PCB, and your problem is it only delivers up to 300ma. First I'd try it and see this is actually the case. If your BBB doesn't boot, that will likely be the problem.
I use my own Jung boards, based on the ALW version (an old project from the early days of the Pink Fish Media DIY Forum). It not necessairily the Jung itself that is critical; probably a good shunt (the Salas seems to be popular) or other superreg would work well too.
if you want to use the Jung you can tweak a few values to allow it to run at up to 1.5A which is what I do. The LM317 prereg is what current limits output to around 1.5A.
I don't know the actual parts and schematics of your boards are, but from memory basically you just need to ensure the current source feeding the output transistor runs at (output current/hfe of output tranistor + say 25%headroom) ma. If the output tranistor has a min hfe of say 50 at 1.5A, your ccs needs to deliver 1.5A/50=30 + 7.5 headroom=37.5 ma. Adjust the current set resistor of the CCS accordingly. There may be a couple of other resistors you need to change depending on the implementation of your actual board- it helps if you understand how the board operates. I use AD825 opamp.
The longer I listen the more of a relief it is- the wall wart definitely limits enjoyment quite significantly. Sonically its certainly of the order of the benefits of good grounding (emotional engagement, coherence, integration, intelligibility, lack of spotlighting, musicality) rather than hifi stuff like deeper bass, better soundstaging etc. And indeed that may play a part in my system as the linear psu integrates with my DAC psu and my overal system ground (mains hydra).
HTH
Ced
If I understand correctly, you mean this reg, Super Regulator PCB, and your problem is it only delivers up to 300ma. First I'd try it and see this is actually the case. If your BBB doesn't boot, that will likely be the problem.
I use my own Jung boards, based on the ALW version (an old project from the early days of the Pink Fish Media DIY Forum). It not necessairily the Jung itself that is critical; probably a good shunt (the Salas seems to be popular) or other superreg would work well too.
if you want to use the Jung you can tweak a few values to allow it to run at up to 1.5A which is what I do. The LM317 prereg is what current limits output to around 1.5A.
I don't know the actual parts and schematics of your boards are, but from memory basically you just need to ensure the current source feeding the output transistor runs at (output current/hfe of output tranistor + say 25%headroom) ma. If the output tranistor has a min hfe of say 50 at 1.5A, your ccs needs to deliver 1.5A/50=30 + 7.5 headroom=37.5 ma. Adjust the current set resistor of the CCS accordingly. There may be a couple of other resistors you need to change depending on the implementation of your actual board- it helps if you understand how the board operates. I use AD825 opamp.
The longer I listen the more of a relief it is- the wall wart definitely limits enjoyment quite significantly. Sonically its certainly of the order of the benefits of good grounding (emotional engagement, coherence, integration, intelligibility, lack of spotlighting, musicality) rather than hifi stuff like deeper bass, better soundstaging etc. And indeed that may play a part in my system as the linear psu integrates with my DAC psu and my overal system ground (mains hydra).
HTH
Ced
My BBB/Hermes/Cronus/Teleporter project is almost completed hardware wise and I am powering this from 2 shunt regs as outlined in this post;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/259460-use-mods-analog-metric-sr50-shunt-regulator.html
Cheap, good quality and easily adaptable with potentially excellent performance.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/259460-use-mods-analog-metric-sr50-shunt-regulator.html
Cheap, good quality and easily adaptable with potentially excellent performance.
its basically a riff on Masao Noru's (of Stax fame) patented shunt reg from 20 years or so back- I use versions of it myself, very excellent.
While you could easily setup a Placid 2.1 or other shunt reg to handle the load - honestly a linear reg is a better fit for powering the BBB itself - because of the extreme variance in the load. A well done switcher is perfectly fine - keep in mind - it is all quite nicely isolated (and is not even in the same time domain as the BBB itself - it is modulated to the oscillator frequency in the isolator itself) from the Cronus and then finally re-clocked. The regulator that supplies the BBB only needs to keep that thing running nice and stable and you are all set. 🙂 There are some switching supplies that are just plain junk - if your BBB is behaving badly trying replacing it with a better one. Also - don't use the BBB barrel connector - use the terminal block instead. Barrel connectors are just awful.
Hi Russ!
Will you, please, recommend one (linear supply). Capable of 0,5-1,5A current supply. I see there's a lot of Jung Superregs replicas with low current (100mA) supply but a scarce offer of juicy regs. Of course, I can do a simple linear power supply but I'd like to have something sophisticated.
Will you, please, recommend one (linear supply). Capable of 0,5-1,5A current supply. I see there's a lot of Jung Superregs replicas with low current (100mA) supply but a scarce offer of juicy regs. Of course, I can do a simple linear power supply but I'd like to have something sophisticated.
Take a look at mravlca's 5v 2A board based on the TPS7A8300. You can run it with either a Mean Well RS-15-5 or a transformer if you'd like to avoid switching supplies entirely.
There's also jean-paul's Squeezebox Touch supply. He may still have a few extra boards left from the group buy if you send him a PM.
There's also jean-paul's Squeezebox Touch supply. He may still have a few extra boards left from the group buy if you send him a PM.
Hi all TPA team,
I'm running my BBB/Hermes/Cronus/PCM5102 from more than 2 weeks now (with Miero's Botic and Squeezelite) and I really enjoy the sound ! it's very clean and detailed without any "over-definition" effect. Congratulations for the excellent job !
I have two questions for the next steps I'm planning :
* Where is the "Header for Switches/Rotary encoder" and which kind of encoder can we use ? any clue on how we can use it from Linux ?
* Where are the "Jumpers for either powering the clean side of the I2C isolator from the Cronus or the DAC" and how can we use them ?
Cheers,
Pascal
I'm running my BBB/Hermes/Cronus/PCM5102 from more than 2 weeks now (with Miero's Botic and Squeezelite) and I really enjoy the sound ! it's very clean and detailed without any "over-definition" effect. Congratulations for the excellent job !
I have two questions for the next steps I'm planning :
* Where is the "Header for Switches/Rotary encoder" and which kind of encoder can we use ? any clue on how we can use it from Linux ?
* Where are the "Jumpers for either powering the clean side of the I2C isolator from the Cronus or the DAC" and how can we use them ?
Cheers,
Pascal
here we go:
manual on the Jung regulator and build. VERY thorough and helpful for understanding it more. takes a few moments to load, old and slow page.
http://www.andrewweekes.talktalk.net/Manuals/ALWSR_rev2.9_Iss005s.pdf
13.4 gives the schematic for the 5v version of the reg.
tweak R1 to something like 20ohms (do the math yourself) so that the CCS is supplying about 37ma (with a D44H11 transistor). R4 worth reducing to something like 2k to allow a bit more current draw through the led.
Note the components that change from the standard superreg to allow 5v operation- D2 is LED. Note q1 needs to be a solid driver transistor for 1.5A.
note the prereg at the bottom of the schematic. its much more effective implemented in tracking mode than when just acting as a plain vanilla prereg.
cheers
C
manual on the Jung regulator and build. VERY thorough and helpful for understanding it more. takes a few moments to load, old and slow page.
http://www.andrewweekes.talktalk.net/Manuals/ALWSR_rev2.9_Iss005s.pdf
13.4 gives the schematic for the 5v version of the reg.
tweak R1 to something like 20ohms (do the math yourself) so that the CCS is supplying about 37ma (with a D44H11 transistor). R4 worth reducing to something like 2k to allow a bit more current draw through the led.
Note the components that change from the standard superreg to allow 5v operation- D2 is LED. Note q1 needs to be a solid driver transistor for 1.5A.
note the prereg at the bottom of the schematic. its much more effective implemented in tracking mode than when just acting as a plain vanilla prereg.
cheers
C
Hi,
I haven't used battery with Hermes-BBB so far and going to use it. I've ordered 062535 battery and waiting for delivery. Unfortunately I am not sure how to arrange Hermes jumpers to allow automatically battery charging. Please advise me.
Will it be OK If I connect 3 jumpers as I marked in enclosed photo?
I haven't used battery with Hermes-BBB so far and going to use it. I've ordered 062535 battery and waiting for delivery. Unfortunately I am not sure how to arrange Hermes jumpers to allow automatically battery charging. Please advise me.
Will it be OK If I connect 3 jumpers as I marked in enclosed photo?
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bern,
only J1 in the picture gets shorted - the four pads to the right are for the header which connects to the corresponding test points on the BBB. The 2x2 headers were supplied with the kit.
That's all you need.
only J1 in the picture gets shorted - the four pads to the right are for the header which connects to the corresponding test points on the BBB. The 2x2 headers were supplied with the kit.
That's all you need.
bern,
only J1 in the picture gets shorted - the four pads to the right are for the header which connects to the corresponding test points on the BBB. The 2x2 headers were supplied with the kit.
That's all you need.
Thanks Russ,
Are 2x2 headers mandatory? I hope I haven't lost them. I will have to search and find them

Problems attaching to Bufalo II
Trying to get BBB/Hermes/Chronus working with a Baffalo II and having problems.
The "lock" LED remains off and the "Mute" LED on while I try to play music via Squeezelite. All normal LEDs light and everything looks OK but not locking.
I have tried a USB to I2S converter with the BII and that sets the Lock LED on and produces music so it seems the issues is with the BBB/Hermes/Chronus side.
Using the latest V4 Botic SW making no changes to default options. I have a couple of other BBBs with external oscillators running the Botic SW so fairly conversant with how to run the SW.
Have checked everything I can think of, all wiring double checked (not that that means I haven't made a mistake), checked oscillators are getting 3.3v.
Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated.
Trying to get BBB/Hermes/Chronus working with a Baffalo II and having problems.
The "lock" LED remains off and the "Mute" LED on while I try to play music via Squeezelite. All normal LEDs light and everything looks OK but not locking.
I have tried a USB to I2S converter with the BII and that sets the Lock LED on and produces music so it seems the issues is with the BBB/Hermes/Chronus side.
Using the latest V4 Botic SW making no changes to default options. I have a couple of other BBBs with external oscillators running the Botic SW so fairly conversant with how to run the SW.
Have checked everything I can think of, all wiring double checked (not that that means I haven't made a mistake), checked oscillators are getting 3.3v.
Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated.
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Pic if thats any help.
The I2S wires are 10cm at the moment to facilitate testing, have tried shorted ones to no avail.
The I2S wires are 10cm at the moment to facilitate testing, have tried shorted ones to no avail.
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