Yes - you would wire the transmitting teleports to the output of the OTTO-II putting them very close.
You can already directly stack the teleporters or even just arrange them very clock to each other. The key here is that now your DACs need not be close together at the receiving end. In fact they could be in different enclosures.
You can already directly stack the teleporters or even just arrange them very clock to each other. The key here is that now your DACs need not be close together at the receiving end. In fact they could be in different enclosures.
Could you post a link please?
How is this connected to the BBB and does it require additional software?
Thanks.
Beware of Wireless USB adapters...
The radiation from Wifi adapter have serious impact on the audio performance. I had to use 1m of USB extension cable to reduce effect of Wifi adapter being close to the DAC and measurement PC. The graphs capture state during heavy network transfer. If no transfer happens, the effect is not visible.
The classical wired Ethernet is safe option regarding that.
The radiation from Wifi adapter have serious impact on the audio performance. I had to use 1m of USB extension cable to reduce effect of Wifi adapter being close to the DAC and measurement PC. The graphs capture state during heavy network transfer. If no transfer happens, the effect is not visible.
The classical wired Ethernet is safe option regarding that.
Attachments
Of course, but it's quite restrictive. For instance, I only have Ethernet in one room. If I want to use the device elsewhere in the house/garden, WiFi is the only practical option.
I suppose so, but that's another bulky and not inexpensive bit of equipment to plug in and find space for.
I use a 1M usb cord to a wifi dongle and I am having no ill effects. Also the degree to which you can shield things will dictate a lot.
My strategy will be to plug the WiFi dongle into a Neutrik chassis passthru connector with a cable connecting internally to the BBB. Hopefully, the shielding of the aluminium case will nullify most/all of the RFI.
That should work fine - and if required you would just add a USB extension cable to get the wifi antenna further away from the DAC.
USB extenders with a weighted base at one end are cheap/great for positioning wifi dongles at more convenient external locations!
BK
BK
For i2c control of (dual-mono) Buffalo II, I assume I need to connect the i2c header on the Hermes with those on the Buffalo II boards. Could anyone tell me what the specs of the PCB connector are (i.e. pin spacing) please?
How would I be able to use Volumite with the Hermes connected to the Buffalo i2c headers?
How would I be able to use Volumite with the Hermes connected to the Buffalo i2c headers?
Blue character OLED
More info how to use it:
Interfacing a 16 x 2 LCD with the Raspberry Pi - ozzmaker.com
and a basic Python script from:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=68055
I have adapted the Python script to work on the BBB. Next is to extend it to provide boot and song info (a nice side project).
I made the following connections:
Most people use 5V to feed the LCD, 3.3V also works great and is a bit safer for the BBB.
Important to tie LCD pin 5 to GND, more so when using 5V.
The 16x2 Blue character OLED (Winstar WEH001602A with RS0010 chipset (compatible with HD44780)) are widely available, e.g. from Adafruit Blue Character OLED 16x2 ID: 823 - $27.95 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits
More info how to use it:
Interfacing a 16 x 2 LCD with the Raspberry Pi - ozzmaker.com
and a basic Python script from:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=68055
I have adapted the Python script to work on the BBB. Next is to extend it to provide boot and song info (a nice side project).
I made the following connections:
Code:
LCD side BBB side
1 GND P8_1
2 VCC 3.3V on Hermes BBB experiment area
3 NC
4 LCD_RS P8_11
5 R/w -> GND P8_2
6 LCD_E P8_15
7-10 NC or tie to GND
11 LCD_D4 P8_12
12 LCD_D5 P8_14
13 LCD_D6 P8_16
14 LCD_D7 P8_18Important to tie LCD pin 5 to GND, more so when using 5V.
Last edited:
locking problem.
So i have finally got my BBB/hermes/cronos/B3 rig up, after some stressy power issues,
resolved by desoldering the J1 link on the Hermes.
However on the Hermes the enable LED is off and the lock LED on the buffalo is interrupting at 3-4 second intervals.
Music is also dropping out when the lock light flicks off- worse than Chinese water torture.
Any advice?
cheers
Ced
So i have finally got my BBB/hermes/cronos/B3 rig up, after some stressy power issues,
resolved by desoldering the J1 link on the Hermes.
However on the Hermes the enable LED is off and the lock LED on the buffalo is interrupting at 3-4 second intervals.
Music is also dropping out when the lock light flicks off- worse than Chinese water torture.
Any advice?
cheers
Ced
OK solved, doh.
had to puTTY in,
nano /boot/uboot/uEnv.txt,
change the line which read
snd_soc_botic.ext_masterclk=0
from 0 to 3,
ie: snd_soc_botic.ext_masterclk=3
save and reboot.
F*** me, after 2 solid weekends of hacking this i was beginning to doubt I'd ever get this shebang up and running.
but.... IT LIVES muahahahah.
OK and thanks to all concerned, but first and foremost Russ and Miero. Jeeze it is pretty obvious this is a years work on both your parts. Hat off gents.
NOW for some serous listening folks...
cheers
Ced
had to puTTY in,
nano /boot/uboot/uEnv.txt,
change the line which read
snd_soc_botic.ext_masterclk=0
from 0 to 3,
ie: snd_soc_botic.ext_masterclk=3
save and reboot.
F*** me, after 2 solid weekends of hacking this i was beginning to doubt I'd ever get this shebang up and running.
but.... IT LIVES muahahahah.
OK and thanks to all concerned, but first and foremost Russ and Miero. Jeeze it is pretty obvious this is a years work on both your parts. Hat off gents.
NOW for some serous listening folks...
cheers
Ced
Well a couple of hours of serious listening in and first impressions?
If you're waiting on boards, you're in for a treat lads!
I am seriously impressed indeed, no mistake. Can easily see someone spending $25k USD to buy a source of the caliber of the Twisted Pear 'full monty' at a dealers.
IMO digital is tough- difficult to get bang for your buck compared to say amps so all the more amazing that the Hermes/cronus has such impact. I wasn't really sure you could do obviously better on digital, but now you can.
Dare I make some listening notes? What the hell, life's short. All IMO. Well don't expect to be bowled over in the first few notes- not like a serious regulator upgrade where you go WTF because the soundstage has suddenly crawled outwards and round the walls. But make no mistake- the improvement is blazingly obvious and all good, good, good. First thing I noticed is bass was just more weighty; goes a fair bit deeper and suddenly you're hearing all this note decay. Fantastic on bass guitar where you really hear those low notes resonate away. Gradually it then creeps up on you that this makes for so much more tune and boogy because that bass is also tighter and more focused- you're hearing the rhythms so much more clearly; boom boom tad-dah boom not just boom boom boom boom. And I could blather on but sound stage is deeper if that floats your boat though not wider, and to summarize in one word. Clarity. There's more detail but because everything is more organised, tight and controlled, not that horrible treble driven 'detail'. I'll stop now.
Anyway Brilliant- thanks again ever so much Russ, Brian and Miero for your work and sharing. Was worth every bit of effort.
cheers
Ced
If you're waiting on boards, you're in for a treat lads!
I am seriously impressed indeed, no mistake. Can easily see someone spending $25k USD to buy a source of the caliber of the Twisted Pear 'full monty' at a dealers.
IMO digital is tough- difficult to get bang for your buck compared to say amps so all the more amazing that the Hermes/cronus has such impact. I wasn't really sure you could do obviously better on digital, but now you can.
Dare I make some listening notes? What the hell, life's short. All IMO. Well don't expect to be bowled over in the first few notes- not like a serious regulator upgrade where you go WTF because the soundstage has suddenly crawled outwards and round the walls. But make no mistake- the improvement is blazingly obvious and all good, good, good. First thing I noticed is bass was just more weighty; goes a fair bit deeper and suddenly you're hearing all this note decay. Fantastic on bass guitar where you really hear those low notes resonate away. Gradually it then creeps up on you that this makes for so much more tune and boogy because that bass is also tighter and more focused- you're hearing the rhythms so much more clearly; boom boom tad-dah boom not just boom boom boom boom. And I could blather on but sound stage is deeper if that floats your boat though not wider, and to summarize in one word. Clarity. There's more detail but because everything is more organised, tight and controlled, not that horrible treble driven 'detail'. I'll stop now.
Anyway Brilliant- thanks again ever so much Russ, Brian and Miero for your work and sharing. Was worth every bit of effort.
cheers
Ced
I too have been doing some serious listening. I have the BBB/Hermes/Cronus via dual-mono Buffalo IIs (asynchronous for now) and dual Ivy IIIs going into either balanced Sennheiser HD600s or Linkwitz Pluto 2.1s.
It certainly sounds better than the Musiland USB-SPDIF converter I was using before. The main things I strive for are: accuracy, clarity and control. My setup now seems to have plenty of all of the above.
Thanks to Russ, Brian, miero and everyone else on the TP forums who have been generous with their time and expertise.
It certainly sounds better than the Musiland USB-SPDIF converter I was using before. The main things I strive for are: accuracy, clarity and control. My setup now seems to have plenty of all of the above.
Thanks to Russ, Brian, miero and everyone else on the TP forums who have been generous with their time and expertise.