As per tittle need some help with this SME 3009 series 2 Improved counterweight
Yes I did search the forum and Google for hours and got even more confused
I have a project on stand by because I can't find any info about the screw thread size on this counterweight...
I am assuming that the tread is some sort of outdated British standard like Withworth or BA can someone help confirming this ?
I even asked my old boss for help but the old guy is 84 and the the old shop is a hell of a mess and could't find any screw or tap that fitted
.
Yes I did search the forum and Google for hours and got even more confused
I have a project on stand by because I can't find any info about the screw thread size on this counterweight...
I am assuming that the tread is some sort of outdated British standard like Withworth or BA can someone help confirming this ?
I even asked my old boss for help but the old guy is 84 and the the old shop is a hell of a mess and could't find any screw or tap that fitted
.
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According to this thread it's 3/16 Whitworth.
https://theartofsound.net/forum/sho...-3009-S2-Improved-conterweight-screw-thread-Q
https://theartofsound.net/forum/sho...-3009-S2-Improved-conterweight-screw-thread-Q
Thanks Stuey. I actually read that thread in that forum before and somehow I missed it...
Thanks again
Thanks again
To verify that this is correct, take a bolt with the same thread, and place it against the SME bolt thread.
The two should interleave perfectly.
The two should interleave perfectly.
Thanks rayma but the issue is getting a 3/16 BSW bolt to compare, I could check in my previous job facilities but I can only get there on Fridays so one week from today or I can buy one of ebay but $10 for 1 3/16 x 1" bolt is a bit bit on the high side...
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Crazy idea I replaced a damaged J arm tube with a strait carbon fibre one, basically using the pillar assembly to make a 3009 s2 with a strait arm and detachable headshell (audio Technica).
I repaired a similar damaged S2 improved but I removed the SME CW totally and made a new bearing yoke. The arm wand is an aluminium arrow shaft and the CW is brass and lead. The stylus tip is lined up coincident with the pivot so no outrigger CW is needed to maintain equal force on each knife edge.
Hello RS232,
Check your circle of friends and acquaintances, to see if there is a gun collector amongst them. If there is, find out if he owns a German WW1 Luger pistol. At the bottom of the grip there are two 3/16" Whitworth screws that hold the walnut grips in place. Borrow one of them and compare.
Sincerely,
Ralf
Check your circle of friends and acquaintances, to see if there is a gun collector amongst them. If there is, find out if he owns a German WW1 Luger pistol. At the bottom of the grip there are two 3/16" Whitworth screws that hold the walnut grips in place. Borrow one of them and compare.
Sincerely,
Ralf
To warrjon; very nice job in that arm.
I'm keeping the CW spider because of the "decoupling" that it gives from the arm, also I replaced the plastic knife bearing with an updated steel one (had to lap it to fit the carbon tube).
Have to do a few more things to make it presentable for a picture but promise to update.
To Straight Tracker:
Guns here in the UK ???
I'm keeping the CW spider because of the "decoupling" that it gives from the arm, also I replaced the plastic knife bearing with an updated steel one (had to lap it to fit the carbon tube).
Have to do a few more things to make it presentable for a picture but promise to update.
To Straight Tracker:
Guns here in the UK ???
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That modded 3009 used a brass knife edge, but steel would do the same job.
Another thing to consider if you are making a straight arm wand is to place the stylus tip coincident with the horizontal pivot like the Graham Phanton. Doing this will negate the need for the outrigger weight. The outrigger weight is there to counter balance the knife edge if you remove the counterbalance weight on a stock 3009 the arm will rock and have very little pressure on the RH knife.
If I were you I would remove the decoupled CW. These only work at ONE frequency and cause issues at other frequencies as they form a spring mass damper.
Here are measurements of my Technics EPA-100 with the OEM dynamically damped CW and a rigidly mounted CW and new stub I made.
These plots clearly show that with the new CW and stub the sidebands at 8.5Hz are almost gone. Yes this is audible, clarity improves.
Another thing to consider if you are making a straight arm wand is to place the stylus tip coincident with the horizontal pivot like the Graham Phanton. Doing this will negate the need for the outrigger weight. The outrigger weight is there to counter balance the knife edge if you remove the counterbalance weight on a stock 3009 the arm will rock and have very little pressure on the RH knife.
If I were you I would remove the decoupled CW. These only work at ONE frequency and cause issues at other frequencies as they form a spring mass damper.
Here are measurements of my Technics EPA-100 with the OEM dynamically damped CW and a rigidly mounted CW and new stub I made.
These plots clearly show that with the new CW and stub the sidebands at 8.5Hz are almost gone. Yes this is audible, clarity improves.
Back again to ask another favour....
Can't find my counterweight so can someone please give me the dimension of it ?
Can't really justify buying another one (there are 3 difference sized ones (5 different weights)) if i can machine one to fit my needs.
Thanks in advance
Can't find my counterweight so can someone please give me the dimension of it ?
Can't really justify buying another one (there are 3 difference sized ones (5 different weights)) if i can machine one to fit my needs.
Thanks in advance
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