help with Qualio-IQ filter

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#63
Allright, looks less neat than the actual press(?) picture on the left. So you want to turn your speaker into a biwired version?
Have you considered to upgrade the filter only and directly solder the AMT to the crossover filter? And I don't see any isolation material in the speaker?? Maybe you can post more pictures of the inside of the speaker?
 
#64
I do not need a bi-wired configuration. I had no plans moving the filters to the AMT - they are bulky and I am not sure one would install them close to the chassis. How would you do that? Indeed there is little insulation, just two foam pads, about 60x80 cm each. have closed the box for now and I want to avoid multiple openings and closing since the screws go directly to the wood.
I soldered Bybee bullets directly to tabs of the main chassis, and it improved the sound! Ideally, I would add them to each chassis, but it is a bit costly.
 
#65
It's a pity for us you don't have more pictures from the inside but understand your argument not to open it too much. What is the thickness of the foam pads and you said they're about 60x80cm (but the dimensions of the speaker are different)??
Anyway, what was your plan regarding the modification of your speaker more into a IQ Ultra version if your wishes are not to turn it into a bi-wired configuration?
 
#66
The foam pads are folded and about 4 cm thick, and there is little secret to the inside except an internal bracing/enforcement for stability. I want to replace the cabling with Duelund Silver or Mundorf Angelic, replace coils with Jantzen copper/wax, and replace the 220 uF electrolytic cap with Mundorf Evo. Furthermore, I want to move the external resistor internally to avoid the cable runs back and forth.
 
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#67
Really interesting. If you have made your modifications I am very interested in your experiences.
Maybe you will take new pictures?
For now can you explain which cables are connect to which driver? (Red, blue and black cable). Did you consider to connect the AMT directly to the filter instead of using the XLR cable?
 
#68
@Cytex many thanks for the pictures. This is very helpful. Especially the fact that the low-pass filter for the midrange driver is actually a 2nd order filter with a 18Ohm resistor to flatten the slope. I expected a ordinary 1st order filter and already found a nice solution for this.
However, as I want to create a "clone" I will build up the network as shown in your images. My simulation in VituixCad suggests a 390mH inductor for the missing value. I will use this as a starting point and will post the measured results in the next days …
 
#69
Vhond said:
Really interesting. If you have made your modifications I am very interested in your experiences.
Maybe you will take new pictures?
For now can you explain which cables are connect to which driver? (Red, blue and black cable). Did you consider to connect the AMT directly to the filter instead of using the XLR cable?
Click to expand...
Black for woofer, blue for midrange, red for tweeter. An extra red pair for the resistor at the terminal.
I am considering bypassing the XLR connector, but it comes at a price: one needs to de-solder tweeter and midrange chassis, whenever you want to remove the top. Not sure it is worth it.
 
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#71
So maybe I leave the Viborg XLR connector in place but will replace the wires: for the tweeter use Duelund silver 0.5 mm, for midrange useDuelund Silver 2 mm. Or use Mundorf Angelic wire to and from XLR connector, as does the Ultra, apoarently.
 
#74
IMG_2337.jpeg
 
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