Ok..
1. I am pretty sure that the yellow drivers from Jaycar are actually made by HiVi, and you can easily match them driver to driver from the HiVi range of drivers. (maybe Swans also get their drivers from HiVi.)
2. If you have an ABN, you can persuade WES Components to allow you "trade" price on Vifa, Peerless etc. WES are the actual Australian distributors of these drivers, so good savings are to be had.
http://www.wescomponents.com/
3. There are a few variants of the XT25 floating about, but called Vifa or Peerless, if the numbering is the same, they will most probably be the same driver. You do need to be a bit careful of the XT's though, great little tweeter, but if you have any output from it around its res point..... yuxk !! So you have to get your x-o correct.
4. Avoid that Jaycar ribbon in a 6.5" 2-way ! It needs to cross way higher than the mention.
Have fun! 🙂
ps.. sourcing drivers from outside Australia is going to be VERY expensive with the current exchange rate, be aware of tis problem.
pps, I'm just up in Newcastle.
1. I am pretty sure that the yellow drivers from Jaycar are actually made by HiVi, and you can easily match them driver to driver from the HiVi range of drivers. (maybe Swans also get their drivers from HiVi.)
2. If you have an ABN, you can persuade WES Components to allow you "trade" price on Vifa, Peerless etc. WES are the actual Australian distributors of these drivers, so good savings are to be had.
http://www.wescomponents.com/
3. There are a few variants of the XT25 floating about, but called Vifa or Peerless, if the numbering is the same, they will most probably be the same driver. You do need to be a bit careful of the XT's though, great little tweeter, but if you have any output from it around its res point..... yuxk !! So you have to get your x-o correct.
4. Avoid that Jaycar ribbon in a 6.5" 2-way ! It needs to cross way higher than the mention.
Have fun! 🙂
ps.. sourcing drivers from outside Australia is going to be VERY expensive with the current exchange rate, be aware of tis problem.
pps, I'm just up in Newcastle.
ppps 😀
Helmut mentioned Visatron. These are actually available down here from SoundLabs http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/
They sell some other drivers as well.. I like the look of the Wavecor 6.5's but haven't got around to using them yet
Rabbitz is currently playing with the SB range of drivers, which are now available from WES.
That may be a path VERY worth following !! He has a great ear and does really nice speakers.
Helmut mentioned Visatron. These are actually available down here from SoundLabs http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/
They sell some other drivers as well.. I like the look of the Wavecor 6.5's but haven't got around to using them yet
Rabbitz is currently playing with the SB range of drivers, which are now available from WES.
That may be a path VERY worth following !! He has a great ear and does really nice speakers.
Andy contacted me that I might be able to add to this thread.
Nearfield monitors are a different beast and I lived with some Yamaha NS10M speakers for over 20 years so have a good understanding. You really don't want anything with low bass as it's going to be a pain in nearfield work and would look for a speaker with an F3 between 50Hz to 60Hz. That also depends on wall loading available, the size of the room as well as listening distance of course. Nor do you want any fizz or zap up top but a tissue can sort that out.
I'll give you a few examples of some of the driver combos that can work well for this type of speaker which may help with your search.
Instead of the Yamaha NS10M, I now use a speaker based on the Vifa P13WH-00-08 and Scan Speak S2905-970000. The tweeter was previously a Vifa D27TG-35-06 and this speaker is documented in the Wiki on this site and resulted from a thread for a reference type speaker. By that I mean a reference point for testing / future builds etc and not the you beaut best of the best. The main attribute is the mid woofer and the P13 has earned the reputation for some of the nicest mids available at a fair price. The tweeter is not critical and the Scan Speak replaced the Vifa only because I had it available.
This speaker is 9.5 litres, F3=60hz, rear wall loaded, and is used 1.2m away. Crossover is a classic series plus a zobel plus a tweeter damping resistor (5 components). Does a great job at getting into the music for nearfield work.
Nearfield monitors are a different beast and I lived with some Yamaha NS10M speakers for over 20 years so have a good understanding. You really don't want anything with low bass as it's going to be a pain in nearfield work and would look for a speaker with an F3 between 50Hz to 60Hz. That also depends on wall loading available, the size of the room as well as listening distance of course. Nor do you want any fizz or zap up top but a tissue can sort that out.
I'll give you a few examples of some of the driver combos that can work well for this type of speaker which may help with your search.
Instead of the Yamaha NS10M, I now use a speaker based on the Vifa P13WH-00-08 and Scan Speak S2905-970000. The tweeter was previously a Vifa D27TG-35-06 and this speaker is documented in the Wiki on this site and resulted from a thread for a reference type speaker. By that I mean a reference point for testing / future builds etc and not the you beaut best of the best. The main attribute is the mid woofer and the P13 has earned the reputation for some of the nicest mids available at a fair price. The tweeter is not critical and the Scan Speak replaced the Vifa only because I had it available.
This speaker is 9.5 litres, F3=60hz, rear wall loaded, and is used 1.2m away. Crossover is a classic series plus a zobel plus a tweeter damping resistor (5 components). Does a great job at getting into the music for nearfield work.
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Next is a considerably more expensive speaker but IMO worth the coin (cost me less than $200 as the woofers were freebies). I use this in my workshop for casual listening as well as testing of DIY amps and a reference when voicing other DIY speakers. Uses the Scan Speak 18W8531G00 and the Vifa XT25TG-30-04. Originally was a sealed box but later changed to vented as I felt the bass needed more extension for it's intended use. Sealed however may be better for nearfield as I was getting F3=55Hz. The XT25 tweeter originally was set up with a LCR network in the crossover but was later removed and no ill effects as far as I can hear.
This speaker is 17 litres, F3=44Hz, works in free space, and is used between 1.5m-3m. Very similar in concept to Zaph's ZD5. This uses a simple AR Series crossover plus a zobel (6 components). The 18W8531 has been coated so differs slightly from stock drivers.
This speaker is 17 litres, F3=44Hz, works in free space, and is used between 1.5m-3m. Very similar in concept to Zaph's ZD5. This uses a simple AR Series crossover plus a zobel (6 components). The 18W8531 has been coated so differs slightly from stock drivers.
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This next one is a great bang for buck and uses Peerless 830875 and Vifa DX25TG-0504. The Peerless Nomex drivers have a great reputation and are a very musical driver but do not provide as much detail as the Scan Speak for example. There's something about using a larger mid woofer (6.5" vs 5") in an undersized box as the driver seems to flourish without the added burden of low bass duties, yet still provides a fuller sound and drive than a 5". The tweeter can sting if not used well but a 2nd order was a good match. An alternative tweeter I have used with this is the good old SEAS 27TDFC which is one of the the DIYers best friends. Another fine choice is the Peerless 810921 for more dollars.
This speaker is 12 litres, F3=52Hz, rear wall loaded but can work 300mm away, and is used 1.7m away. Uses a simple AR series crossover with 2nd order on the tweeter plus a zobel (7 components). Has been built up to a large floorstander and a very versatile combination.
This speaker is 12 litres, F3=52Hz, rear wall loaded but can work 300mm away, and is used 1.7m away. Uses a simple AR series crossover with 2nd order on the tweeter plus a zobel (7 components). Has been built up to a large floorstander and a very versatile combination.
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The last is a recent design I'm still playing with, the SB Acoustics SB15NRXC30-8 with a Vifa D27TG-35-06. I've been busting to try this driver due to the background of this company and it does not disappoint. I went with a familiar tweeter as I didn't want another variable in the sound as I wanted to focus on the SB Acoustics mid woofer. I didn't have an application for the 6.5" so chose a 5" that could be utilised. The build on this woofer is exceptional and there's some smarts in the motor to get a super low inductance (clue... low inductance drivers have an edge IMO) and the resulting impedance plot. The impedance does not require as zobel as it's very flat but I used one for response shaping.
The initial concern with this driver was the on axis rise in the frequency response starting at 4kHz . In real life it wasn't an issue and was treated similar to some of the Peerless Nomex drivers I've used. A simple zobel was enough in conjunction with the crossover was enough to push it down to a reasonable level and since my speakers are designed for off axis and not on axis, I haven't heard it becoming a problem. I'm sure measurements on axis would pick up 1-2dB from it between 4kHz to 8kHz. SB Acoustics has a design that use a LR in their network but that doesn't push this down further that what I have so I think I'm on the right track. They do state not to toe in the speakers so sort of confirms my thoughts on off axis performance is the aim of this driver.
The detail from this driver is to me better than the Peerless Nomex and approaching the Scan Speak. Stacked up against my Revelator based speaker it wasn't disgraced at all and in most cases matched it note for note and had a great impression of depth. Not bad as the completed speakers were built for less than the price of one 18W8531G00.
Like most uncoated paper drivers I've heard, it does have that nasal sort of hollow quality and the Revelator also suffered from this but to a lesser degree until coated. It does seem to have a light grey coating that looks cosmetic, but tonight the SB Acoustics drivers have been doped to see if the cone damping will help like it did on the Revelator. In isolation, not comparing the speakers, it's not that noticeable (song dependant) and doesn't effect the tonal quality, detail or musicality of this driver.
All in all a great value driver. I still think a 6.5" in an undersized box may perform better than a 5" as I've explained previously but I've wanted a little 5" that can bang out some good bass. SB Acoustics do have a small 6.5" design on their site.
http://www.sbacoustics.com/specproductkits.php?product_name=2 Way Speaker
This speaker is 12 litres, F3=46Hz, rear wall loaded, and is used 1.8m away. Another AR Series crossover with a zobel and a tweeter damping resistor (7 components). I tried it in free space with more BSC and it responded very well but was too much for it's final location so was removed.
This post is a bit longer as there is very little info out there on the SB Acoustics drivers so posting some impressions of it's use.
There are other drivers such as a Vifa XG18WH00-08 with a Peerless 810921 which made a great combination with fantastic mids but the XG18 has been dumped. Another great possibility is the Vifa PL series and a speaker worth checking is Ken Perkins' Nebula.
http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/nebula/nebula.html
If you want a really good studio monitor then Vance Dickason's from the 6th Ed Loudspeaker Design Cookbook has to be at the top of the list.
http://www.parts-express.com/resources/diy/vance/ldc6kit.html
I hope this gives you some ideas for drivers in your search.
These will be my final posts at diyAudio as my physical condition has made it increasingly difficult to type as well as my medication makes it harder to be lucid in my wording. Thanks to all that have helped me over the years and I hope I've managed to help a few along the way. I'll still pop in for a looky see.
The initial concern with this driver was the on axis rise in the frequency response starting at 4kHz . In real life it wasn't an issue and was treated similar to some of the Peerless Nomex drivers I've used. A simple zobel was enough in conjunction with the crossover was enough to push it down to a reasonable level and since my speakers are designed for off axis and not on axis, I haven't heard it becoming a problem. I'm sure measurements on axis would pick up 1-2dB from it between 4kHz to 8kHz. SB Acoustics has a design that use a LR in their network but that doesn't push this down further that what I have so I think I'm on the right track. They do state not to toe in the speakers so sort of confirms my thoughts on off axis performance is the aim of this driver.
The detail from this driver is to me better than the Peerless Nomex and approaching the Scan Speak. Stacked up against my Revelator based speaker it wasn't disgraced at all and in most cases matched it note for note and had a great impression of depth. Not bad as the completed speakers were built for less than the price of one 18W8531G00.
Like most uncoated paper drivers I've heard, it does have that nasal sort of hollow quality and the Revelator also suffered from this but to a lesser degree until coated. It does seem to have a light grey coating that looks cosmetic, but tonight the SB Acoustics drivers have been doped to see if the cone damping will help like it did on the Revelator. In isolation, not comparing the speakers, it's not that noticeable (song dependant) and doesn't effect the tonal quality, detail or musicality of this driver.
All in all a great value driver. I still think a 6.5" in an undersized box may perform better than a 5" as I've explained previously but I've wanted a little 5" that can bang out some good bass. SB Acoustics do have a small 6.5" design on their site.
http://www.sbacoustics.com/specproductkits.php?product_name=2 Way Speaker
This speaker is 12 litres, F3=46Hz, rear wall loaded, and is used 1.8m away. Another AR Series crossover with a zobel and a tweeter damping resistor (7 components). I tried it in free space with more BSC and it responded very well but was too much for it's final location so was removed.
This post is a bit longer as there is very little info out there on the SB Acoustics drivers so posting some impressions of it's use.
There are other drivers such as a Vifa XG18WH00-08 with a Peerless 810921 which made a great combination with fantastic mids but the XG18 has been dumped. Another great possibility is the Vifa PL series and a speaker worth checking is Ken Perkins' Nebula.
http://www.parts-express.com/projectshowcase/nebula/nebula.html
If you want a really good studio monitor then Vance Dickason's from the 6th Ed Loudspeaker Design Cookbook has to be at the top of the list.
http://www.parts-express.com/resources/diy/vance/ldc6kit.html
I hope this gives you some ideas for drivers in your search.
These will be my final posts at diyAudio as my physical condition has made it increasingly difficult to type as well as my medication makes it harder to be lucid in my wording. Thanks to all that have helped me over the years and I hope I've managed to help a few along the way. I'll still pop in for a looky see.
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rabbitz said:
Hi Rabbitz,
Thanks very much for your long and detailed replies. Also thanks to Andy for contacting you - I tried to PM and email you before but neither worked. Plus it looks like Andy beat me to it!
Anyway, sorry for my delayed reply - my computer decided to stuff up which meant a full reinstall of Vista... and then I've had other "time wasting" stuff happening every day... 🙂
Interesting that you say nearfield monitors are different to bookshelves! I will definitely take that into consideration. I think my problem is that I want to be able to use these in whichever situation they find themselves, but I think that will either: a) not work at all, or b) compromise all types of listening.
I think what I need is actually two pairs (at least!) of speakers. I will tackle the monitors first as those are what I need most, and then perhaps go for some bookshelves later on.
The only problem is, while your information is of course invaluable, I will have difficulty in using it as I have no experience with speaker building whatsovever. So basically, what I need are detailed instructions for *how* to build them. Obviously once I've built a pair or two I will be able to just go off box volumes, etc., but for now, I'm not so sure 🙂 I know you're no longer an active poster on these forums anymore so I won't bother you with any more questions, but if anyone else has any simple "rules of thumb" or info on how to build speakers just by box volumes, drivers and crossover specs, it would be much appreciated!
I'm still liking these but I'm not sure how suitable for monitors they would be? Also the author didn't really give a rundown on how they sounded, so...
I'm also liking the various kits from Visatron, but the prices are a bit steep. So far I'm looking at the Bijou (thanks Helmuth!), the Aria MHT, the Couplet and the
Couplet Light. Anyone tried these? Any good?
I'm headed off to Melbourne for 5 days tomorrow and I was going to head down to speakerbits.com (only 16km from where I'm staying!) but I think it would be a rush job if I just went and bought stuff from there right away. I think I need a bit more research so I get it right first go 🙂
Anyway, thanks once again Andy and Rabbitz, and I hope your condition improves Rabbitz!
I'll come out of self exile as I should respond to your post.
The PL14 speaker from Troels should be a very good option and think it might do the job well. It's got a highish crossover point to allow the PL14 to do it's thing in the important octaves. I've used both the XT25 and the PL series and are very good sounding... you could do a lot worse believe me.
I've added a link to a design and construction guide I did some years ago and may help to understand the basics. I'll leave it up for a few weeks.
Download a 2.4mB zip file from here
The crossover parts for the PL14 speaker are available at Speakerbug.
http://speakerbug.com.au/shop/
I've activated my email for a few weeks in case you might have some questions. Thanks for your kind words on my condition. This year is crunch time for me and will determine the final outcome so am focussing my energies in this direction.
The PL14 speaker from Troels should be a very good option and think it might do the job well. It's got a highish crossover point to allow the PL14 to do it's thing in the important octaves. I've used both the XT25 and the PL series and are very good sounding... you could do a lot worse believe me.
I've added a link to a design and construction guide I did some years ago and may help to understand the basics. I'll leave it up for a few weeks.
Download a 2.4mB zip file from here
The crossover parts for the PL14 speaker are available at Speakerbug.
http://speakerbug.com.au/shop/
I've activated my email for a few weeks in case you might have some questions. Thanks for your kind words on my condition. This year is crunch time for me and will determine the final outcome so am focussing my energies in this direction.
Hi Rabbitz
Thanks for your post and also the Zipped guide. I have been looking at a two-way design as well and it really helps. I am also interested in the SB acoustics drivers, especially the midwoofers. I have a pair of Tonigen supertweeters that I am trying to find a good bookshelf design for. Any suggestions welcome ;-)
Hope you can overcome your health issues and things work out for you.
best wishes
Antripodean
Thanks for your post and also the Zipped guide. I have been looking at a two-way design as well and it really helps. I am also interested in the SB acoustics drivers, especially the midwoofers. I have a pair of Tonigen supertweeters that I am trying to find a good bookshelf design for. Any suggestions welcome ;-)
Hope you can overcome your health issues and things work out for you.
best wishes
Antripodean
Thanks for your words of encouragement.
I'm quite enjoying the SB15NRX and has turned into a very nice speaker. It's taken a bit of effort to get it where I want it and that required some coating with Visaton LTS-50. Not that the original is bad as it's very good.... just wanted to remove some of the paper cone nasal and get it closer to Scan Speak territory.
I have no knowledge of those tweeters as all mine are Tymphany (DST) or SEAS units so I can't help you there.
For designs look at these sites for ideas as they don't get much better. Even if you don't find anything exactly what you want you will find something close or very good ideas and information.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
http://www.zaphaudio.com/index.html
Cheers
I'm quite enjoying the SB15NRX and has turned into a very nice speaker. It's taken a bit of effort to get it where I want it and that required some coating with Visaton LTS-50. Not that the original is bad as it's very good.... just wanted to remove some of the paper cone nasal and get it closer to Scan Speak territory.
I have no knowledge of those tweeters as all mine are Tymphany (DST) or SEAS units so I can't help you there.
For designs look at these sites for ideas as they don't get much better. Even if you don't find anything exactly what you want you will find something close or very good ideas and information.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
http://www.zaphaudio.com/index.html
Cheers
If the tweeter is a ribbon that needs crossing over high, you may get some advice on the Fullrange Forum.
As I said, I have no idea about the tweeter and it's SPL etc but the CSS FR125 (also WR125S) might be a possibility as is the nicest fullrange driver I've personally heard and worked with (FR not my main field). Very nice tonal balance and sound quality but a bit low on SPL and power handling. Use it within it's limits and it shines. Can get them at Darcher Audio.
http://www.darcheraudio.com.au/shop/
As I said, I have no idea about the tweeter and it's SPL etc but the CSS FR125 (also WR125S) might be a possibility as is the nicest fullrange driver I've personally heard and worked with (FR not my main field). Very nice tonal balance and sound quality but a bit low on SPL and power handling. Use it within it's limits and it shines. Can get them at Darcher Audio.
http://www.darcheraudio.com.au/shop/
[QUOTE
Do you know the make/model of these speakers and if anyone has copied them as a DIY project with a writeup? [/B][/QUOTE]
http://www.hiviresearch.com/product/htm/view.php?id=411
this is the kit version of the swans m1 that you referred to. it is available retail ( the picture you linked) or kit. haven't heard it but this design has been brought up a few times in the forums.
blue934
edit; here is an english link
http://web.archive.org/web/20001218034600/swanspeaker.com/products/kits/kits.htm
Do you know the make/model of these speakers and if anyone has copied them as a DIY project with a writeup? [/B][/QUOTE]
http://www.hiviresearch.com/product/htm/view.php?id=411
this is the kit version of the swans m1 that you referred to. it is available retail ( the picture you linked) or kit. haven't heard it but this design has been brought up a few times in the forums.
blue934
edit; here is an english link
http://web.archive.org/web/20001218034600/swanspeaker.com/products/kits/kits.htm
Thanks again Rabbitz
You picked my fave 3 DIY sites for two ways. Some of the humble designs are amazing for their aesthetics as well.
Good call on the FullRange. I am working on the idea of running a couple in parallel to achieve the power handling required. Guess it's called a 2.5 way ;-) Can you suggest a website that will allow approximation of frequency response on such a design?
Also looking at a traditional 3 way as it fills in all the gaps very nicely to have a decent midrange going flat to 6kHz.
Speaker building is definitely interesting with so much to learn 🙂
planning, planning and more planning 😀
You picked my fave 3 DIY sites for two ways. Some of the humble designs are amazing for their aesthetics as well.
Good call on the FullRange. I am working on the idea of running a couple in parallel to achieve the power handling required. Guess it's called a 2.5 way ;-) Can you suggest a website that will allow approximation of frequency response on such a design?
Also looking at a traditional 3 way as it fills in all the gaps very nicely to have a decent midrange going flat to 6kHz.
Speaker building is definitely interesting with so much to learn 🙂
planning, planning and more planning 😀
I have built 6 of the small 1 l enclosure kits with the Mark Audio J6T FR drivers. They are great to HT use or stereo with appropriate Sub-woofer or near field listening without. You can get them at Decibel Hifi, and the cabinets are cheap and easy to build. The driver, I think can still get at Decibel, or you can get the upgraded ones from Mark Audio. They have some newer drivers that may or may not fit into the same enclosure. However, MA have some great new drivers also. In the past I have also built a Fostex FE-127E MLTL (basically stuffed big box).
All are easy to build and give great sound. Best of luck.
All are easy to build and give great sound. Best of luck.
Antripodean said:
Have a look at the FRD Consortium and download SPL tools to create frd & zma files from manufacturer's plots and PCDC for crossover modelling. You need Excel 2000 onwards I think.
http://www.pvconsultants.com/audio/frdgroup.htm
benro2,
Sorry i know this is completely off track to what others are suggesting, but seeing as it is your first DIY speaker project and you're completely new to it, why not just build a really cheap set of speakers? By cheap, i mean no more than $150. I did exactly that and i couldn't be happier: Just cause they're cheap, doesn't mean they're bad.
Nothing against everyone elses suggestions; they're all great! But i'm sure most people here would agree that it is very easy to get carried away with a speaker project; not something you want to be doing on your first shot. I think you should put some money from your current budget away for future projects.
Anyway back to your current project.
A Jaycar CW2192 paired up with a CT2007 tweeter is already more than enough for computer speakers. I know this because i've used the CW2192, which comfortably fills my whole lounge room with really good sound for their price. Seeing as they'll be sitting quite close to you, they should also keep you bass-happy without needing a sub.
Throw these together with a basic crossover, terminal and wires in a 5l closed box, and i guarantee you'll be glad you didn't spend more. And while you're sitting there enjoying them, you'll be inspired to dream up new projects, whilst having a good sense of what you're capable of. Can't go wrong!
Sorry i know this is completely off track to what others are suggesting, but seeing as it is your first DIY speaker project and you're completely new to it, why not just build a really cheap set of speakers? By cheap, i mean no more than $150. I did exactly that and i couldn't be happier: Just cause they're cheap, doesn't mean they're bad.
Nothing against everyone elses suggestions; they're all great! But i'm sure most people here would agree that it is very easy to get carried away with a speaker project; not something you want to be doing on your first shot. I think you should put some money from your current budget away for future projects.
Anyway back to your current project.
A Jaycar CW2192 paired up with a CT2007 tweeter is already more than enough for computer speakers. I know this because i've used the CW2192, which comfortably fills my whole lounge room with really good sound for their price. Seeing as they'll be sitting quite close to you, they should also keep you bass-happy without needing a sub.
Throw these together with a basic crossover, terminal and wires in a 5l closed box, and i guarantee you'll be glad you didn't spend more. And while you're sitting there enjoying them, you'll be inspired to dream up new projects, whilst having a good sense of what you're capable of. Can't go wrong!
villeneuve,
What box size & port tuning did you use for the CW2192?
I was just looking at that driver a couple of hours ago.
Cheers,
Pete McK
What box size & port tuning did you use for the CW2192?
I was just looking at that driver a couple of hours ago.
Cheers,
Pete McK
PeteMcK,
As it was my first speaker project, i didn't know anything and never got the full potential out of the driver. I simply put it in the smallest box possible with the tweeter, and it ended up being around 4l, closed.
It sounds supprisingly good though, for a budget bookshelf. They're best used in small rooms, but they also do well in lounge rooms provided you don't need boomy bass.
One of my friends used the same driver in a larger, ported box (i don't know the dimensions, sorry), but there wasn't much difference.
Be careful not to get carried away by the price though. Like the yellow Jaycar speakers (Hi-Vi D Series), they are very power hungry, so using muliple drivers in foorstanding speakers would require a pretty serious amplifier to run efficiently.
As it was my first speaker project, i didn't know anything and never got the full potential out of the driver. I simply put it in the smallest box possible with the tweeter, and it ended up being around 4l, closed.
It sounds supprisingly good though, for a budget bookshelf. They're best used in small rooms, but they also do well in lounge rooms provided you don't need boomy bass.
One of my friends used the same driver in a larger, ported box (i don't know the dimensions, sorry), but there wasn't much difference.
Be careful not to get carried away by the price though. Like the yellow Jaycar speakers (Hi-Vi D Series), they are very power hungry, so using muliple drivers in foorstanding speakers would require a pretty serious amplifier to run efficiently.
It looks good in 40-50L tuned around 34Hz, closed ~ 24L.
At 4L you're probably getting a hump at ~ 150Hz, with the lows dropping off below that, if the specs are accurate, I'd have gone min around 10L (But Jaycar specs leave a lot to be desired...)
Cheers, Pete McK
At 4L you're probably getting a hump at ~ 150Hz, with the lows dropping off below that, if the specs are accurate, I'd have gone min around 10L (But Jaycar specs leave a lot to be desired...)
Cheers, Pete McK
Apologies for taking so long to reply and for digging this thread up out of the grave, but I've just been waiting for the next chance for some holidays = time to build speakers! That's coming up very soon over Easter, will have 10 days to get everything done 🙂
One question, the speakers I had previously decided on were these: Vifa PL14WJ-09-08 + Vifa XT25TG-30-04. I searched as many driver resellers that I could find (within Australia only) but I could only come up with the 4 Ohm version of the PL14WJ (PL14WJ-09-04?), as was only available on www.speakerbits.com. Does anyone know where I can find the 8 Ohm version? Or, is it possible to use the 4 Ohm version, and if so, what would I have to change, and would it be detrimental to the sound in any way?
Also, compared to the other speakers I was keen on building (Vifa PL14WJ-09-08 + Vifa XT25TG-30-04), which would be better suited to my needs? I'm after a bookshelf *monitor* so the most accurate reproduction of sound is paramount. I just like the look of the ribbon tweeters, that's all 🙂
Thanks for the suggestion villeneuve, but what I'm after is something that will give me the most accurate reproduction of sound, as I want to use these speakers for mixing. They may not actually sound that good, but as long as they're accurate and have some extensive bass (so I don't have to use a sub), I'll be happy. I'd rather try and get it right first go - as I do have help at home with the woodworking side of things if I get stuck...
One question, the speakers I had previously decided on were these: Vifa PL14WJ-09-08 + Vifa XT25TG-30-04. I searched as many driver resellers that I could find (within Australia only) but I could only come up with the 4 Ohm version of the PL14WJ (PL14WJ-09-04?), as was only available on www.speakerbits.com. Does anyone know where I can find the 8 Ohm version? Or, is it possible to use the 4 Ohm version, and if so, what would I have to change, and would it be detrimental to the sound in any way?
I had a look at both links and couldn't see where to buy them from, or for how much? Do you know if they are still available?blue934 said:
Also, compared to the other speakers I was keen on building (Vifa PL14WJ-09-08 + Vifa XT25TG-30-04), which would be better suited to my needs? I'm after a bookshelf *monitor* so the most accurate reproduction of sound is paramount. I just like the look of the ribbon tweeters, that's all 🙂
villeneuve said:
Thanks for the suggestion villeneuve, but what I'm after is something that will give me the most accurate reproduction of sound, as I want to use these speakers for mixing. They may not actually sound that good, but as long as they're accurate and have some extensive bass (so I don't have to use a sub), I'll be happy. I'd rather try and get it right first go - as I do have help at home with the woodworking side of things if I get stuck...
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