Looks like a good choice Breno. A good tweeter is worth a lot.
I finished a pair of book shelf speaker for my own last week, The black paint is a base coat it will become dark grey like the cone. So I have now two set to listen to when I modify or sell one.
These one's have the -3db point at 35Hz and the -10dB at 30Hz.
Real bizarre to hear such low frequency of a small book shelf. But when listening to music with a lot of low frequencies the voice's are influenced by it and less clear.
Success with your project Breno.
Regards, Helmuth
I finished a pair of book shelf speaker for my own last week, The black paint is a base coat it will become dark grey like the cone. So I have now two set to listen to when I modify or sell one.
These one's have the -3db point at 35Hz and the -10dB at 30Hz.
Real bizarre to hear such low frequency of a small book shelf. But when listening to music with a lot of low frequencies the voice's are influenced by it and less clear.
Success with your project Breno.
Regards, Helmuth
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Helmuth, those speakers look great! I'd love to have bass response that deep from such small speakers but as rabbitz previously said, due to my speakers' placement near a wall and in close proximity to me, it is best to choose a model that doesn't accentuate the bass too much, even if I don't want to use a sub. I'll see how it all sounds in the end before deciding on a sub or not but I don't really have room anyway so I'll probably leave it... (famous last words!)
Just a little update for everyone (in case they're interested 🙂 ) - I've managed to *finally* source and purchase all required materials/parts to build the Vifa speakers. They went a couple of hundred over budget though - but no matter, as the more I looked at their response and design, the more I wanted to build them!
Here's a rough breakdown for parts prices and where I bought them:
Drivers: www.wescomponents.com - about $115 per mid-woofer and $85 per tweeter.
Crossovers: www.speakerbug.com.au - about $165 for both crossovers, shipped. I was a little lucky here as Stephen didn't have the a couple of the exact coils specified by Troels, however after writing to him and receiving a prompt reply (within 12 hrs!), Stephen told me that he'd just put up a very similar coil that would be fine to use, plus he had just pulled a couple of coils out of some crossovers he wasn't using anymore, so he held them for me until I was ready to buy.
Wood: fairly obvious, Bunnings 🙂 About $15 for a 900x450mm , 16mm thick plank of MDF
Other components: Jaycar - resistors (wire wound, not the MOX type specified by Troels but he confirmed that wire wound are fine), chunky looking gold-plated speaker terminals (in a plastic cutaway so they mount flush with the rear panel), solder tag strips, adjustable length ports, etc. About $40-50 all up.
Still to come: damping materials - probably about $10-20 from Jaycar. Suitable crossover/speaker box glue: most likely from Bunnings, not sure what to get but am expecting $10-20 for a tube. Speaker cable, solder wire, etc. - probably about $20-30 all up.
Total: a little over $600. Some of this is because it's my first time building speakers, (such as solder wire, glue, speaker cable, etc.) but it's pretty close to this amount even with those things.
Yes, my budget was about $400 but after more research it's clear that there's not much point in building something cheaply that won't do my very specific job. If I were simply building "listening" speakers (as opposed to monitors for the purpose of mixing), then I would have probably attempted something in the $200-300 range.
Oh, and I'm going to look at building a chip amp too, although I have no idea what to do here. Thanks to rabbitz, I found these through his very useful guide he posted up a few posts ago - thanks rabbitz! I don't know how powerful these amps are but I'd ideally like it to be around 2 x 100W RMS. Any suggestions? I'd like to budget $300-400 for this but I know I'll end up blowing that too as I discover higher and higher models 😛
Wish me luck with the build! I haven't started yet as I haven't received the crossover components and I can't do any woodworking until the weekend. I'll let everyone know how it's progressing.
Just a little update for everyone (in case they're interested 🙂 ) - I've managed to *finally* source and purchase all required materials/parts to build the Vifa speakers. They went a couple of hundred over budget though - but no matter, as the more I looked at their response and design, the more I wanted to build them!
Here's a rough breakdown for parts prices and where I bought them:
Drivers: www.wescomponents.com - about $115 per mid-woofer and $85 per tweeter.
Crossovers: www.speakerbug.com.au - about $165 for both crossovers, shipped. I was a little lucky here as Stephen didn't have the a couple of the exact coils specified by Troels, however after writing to him and receiving a prompt reply (within 12 hrs!), Stephen told me that he'd just put up a very similar coil that would be fine to use, plus he had just pulled a couple of coils out of some crossovers he wasn't using anymore, so he held them for me until I was ready to buy.
Wood: fairly obvious, Bunnings 🙂 About $15 for a 900x450mm , 16mm thick plank of MDF
Other components: Jaycar - resistors (wire wound, not the MOX type specified by Troels but he confirmed that wire wound are fine), chunky looking gold-plated speaker terminals (in a plastic cutaway so they mount flush with the rear panel), solder tag strips, adjustable length ports, etc. About $40-50 all up.
Still to come: damping materials - probably about $10-20 from Jaycar. Suitable crossover/speaker box glue: most likely from Bunnings, not sure what to get but am expecting $10-20 for a tube. Speaker cable, solder wire, etc. - probably about $20-30 all up.
Total: a little over $600. Some of this is because it's my first time building speakers, (such as solder wire, glue, speaker cable, etc.) but it's pretty close to this amount even with those things.
Yes, my budget was about $400 but after more research it's clear that there's not much point in building something cheaply that won't do my very specific job. If I were simply building "listening" speakers (as opposed to monitors for the purpose of mixing), then I would have probably attempted something in the $200-300 range.
Oh, and I'm going to look at building a chip amp too, although I have no idea what to do here. Thanks to rabbitz, I found these through his very useful guide he posted up a few posts ago - thanks rabbitz! I don't know how powerful these amps are but I'd ideally like it to be around 2 x 100W RMS. Any suggestions? I'd like to budget $300-400 for this but I know I'll end up blowing that too as I discover higher and higher models 😛
Wish me luck with the build! I haven't started yet as I haven't received the crossover components and I can't do any woodworking until the weekend. I'll let everyone know how it's progressing.
benro2 said:
A bridged LM3886 is ideal if you can keep your loudspeakers from going under 6 Ohms. You can build it for less than $20/ch (unless you use gold caps and other silly stuff) + psu & heatsinks that are expensive as hell but perhaps you can take them from useless old gear.
I know that it's wrong to assume that something more expensive is better, but from what I've seen with amps, generally this is true?
I should probably start a new thread here, but what I'm after is something that is powerful enough to be able to drive a larger pair of speakers should the need arise. 100W RMS/channel is probably the minimum I would like, especially since these speakers I am building now aren't overly efficient (although I think they won't handle much more power than that - I'm not sure how to calculate that either)...
I'm also after something that is fairly portable. I'd like to keep the pre/power sections in the one box. Source selection is optional, but what would be handy is the option to input a digital connection such as S/PDIF or optical, if these even exist in kit form? I plan on buying a FireWire pro soundcard in the near future to hook up to my laptop and keeping it digital would probably be the way to go.
I should probably start a new thread here, but what I'm after is something that is powerful enough to be able to drive a larger pair of speakers should the need arise. 100W RMS/channel is probably the minimum I would like, especially since these speakers I am building now aren't overly efficient (although I think they won't handle much more power than that - I'm not sure how to calculate that either)...
I'm also after something that is fairly portable. I'd like to keep the pre/power sections in the one box. Source selection is optional, but what would be handy is the option to input a digital connection such as S/PDIF or optical, if these even exist in kit form? I plan on buying a FireWire pro soundcard in the near future to hook up to my laptop and keeping it digital would probably be the way to go.
benro2 said:
The power capability of the driver isn't the only limitation of your driver but also the X-max.
I have designed a three way loudspeaker that can endure 300Watt no problem. But at 35 and 18Hz with 25 watt will do reach the driver his maximum linear extrusion. see first page there are screen shots of winisd that extrusion level is for 1 watt.
That isn't a problem in this design because at has a good SPL-level ideal for low distortion listening in a average size room.
When you use WINisdpro you can see the xmax at diveren't power levels.
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