I've never done a speaker replacement before so trying to cover my blindspots by coming here.
Here's what I know and am thinking.
Faceplate
100mm faceplate. The hole pitch is 90mm but I guess I don't have to reuse the existing holes.
I could go bigger and forego just reusing the existing lip, but then I imagine I'd need a gasket of some sort. There is room for up to say 110mm, maybe a tad bigger.
Opening
The cutout opening is 80mm, making the lip 10mm. I could drill holes or cut space in the lip for connection leads if I had to.
Original tweeter
The current tweeter has a 26mm dome voice coil and dual magnet.
The system
It's a two-way system with a crossover and the input is labeled as having an 8-ohm impedance.
Having a hard time finding a nice drop-in replacement. And I don't know how to prioritize trade-offs well here.
I don't know the original wattage of the tweeter either and not sure how important that is.
Any insights or options appreciated. Thank you!
Here's what I know and am thinking.
Faceplate
100mm faceplate. The hole pitch is 90mm but I guess I don't have to reuse the existing holes.
I could go bigger and forego just reusing the existing lip, but then I imagine I'd need a gasket of some sort. There is room for up to say 110mm, maybe a tad bigger.
Opening
The cutout opening is 80mm, making the lip 10mm. I could drill holes or cut space in the lip for connection leads if I had to.
Original tweeter
The current tweeter has a 26mm dome voice coil and dual magnet.
The system
It's a two-way system with a crossover and the input is labeled as having an 8-ohm impedance.
Having a hard time finding a nice drop-in replacement. And I don't know how to prioritize trade-offs well here.
I don't know the original wattage of the tweeter either and not sure how important that is.
Any insights or options appreciated. Thank you!
Here's a sample of 1" 8 ohm soft dome tweeters. Looks like the GRS offerings would fit your cutouts, and they're cheap. No idea what they sound like.
https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-components/hi-fi-woofers-subwoofers-midranges-tweeters/tweeters/impedance/8/tweetertype/Soft Dome?powerhandlingrms=0.00to66.00
jeff
https://www.parts-express.com/speaker-components/hi-fi-woofers-subwoofers-midranges-tweeters/tweeters/impedance/8/tweetertype/Soft Dome?powerhandlingrms=0.00to66.00
jeff
Welcome to the forum.
You don't give a budget and you may be surprised at the range of prices for tweeters, e.g., ranging from £20 to over £800!
This budget dome tweeter would be a good physical fit provided you can stretch to 116mm: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...i-vi-q1r-1-fabric-dome-tweeter-116-mm-flange/
Faceplate diameter: 116mm, Cutout diameter: 79mm, Pitch Circle diameter for fixing screws: 101.5mm
We would really need to know the make and model of your existing tweeter to make an informed suggestion - or at least the make and model of your loudspeaker.
Apart from impedance, factors like crossover frequency and sensitivity influence the choice.
You don't give a budget and you may be surprised at the range of prices for tweeters, e.g., ranging from £20 to over £800!
This budget dome tweeter would be a good physical fit provided you can stretch to 116mm: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...i-vi-q1r-1-fabric-dome-tweeter-116-mm-flange/
Faceplate diameter: 116mm, Cutout diameter: 79mm, Pitch Circle diameter for fixing screws: 101.5mm
We would really need to know the make and model of your existing tweeter to make an informed suggestion - or at least the make and model of your loudspeaker.
Apart from impedance, factors like crossover frequency and sensitivity influence the choice.
I have the first version. The housing was cracked a bunch on both. It seems to have gotten brittle with age. I'd like to do less than $100 for both. But I'd go up to $200, maybe even a little higher. I want these to be proper studio monitors so I don't want to cheap out.
116mm would be just too big.
Considering Monacor DT-99, which is a German brand, but don't know much about them or any brands really, yet.
116mm would be just too big.
Considering Monacor DT-99, which is a German brand, but don't know much about them or any brands really, yet.
I looked at the Monacor DT-99 myself.
Willys Hifi (UK) say about it: "25mm Pure Silk Dome Tweeter with 100mm Faceplate. A good value replacement for old 100mm tweeters such as the Audax HD100 series, Peerless DT-100 and LR-10-DT, as found in many 1970s/80s designs. The DT 99 has an excellent radiation pattern..."
I was going to suggest The DT-99, but wasn't sure if it would fit your cutout without an adaptor ring.
The dimensions are shown here: https://www.monacor.com/products/pa...gy-and-speaker-building/hi-fi-tweeters/dt-99/
If you can make it fit then go for it. Monacor make good quality replacement drivers which are used in many speaker renovations.
Note that the recommended crossover frequency is 2,500 Hz (12dB/octave). I don't know if that matches the crossover frequency of your T6V.
In the event that the tweeter turns out to be too loud, you can simply attenuate it by wiring a suitable low ohm value, 5/10 W ceramic resistor in series with its positive lead - 2.0 ohm may be a reasonable starting value for experimentation.
Willys Hifi (UK) say about it: "25mm Pure Silk Dome Tweeter with 100mm Faceplate. A good value replacement for old 100mm tweeters such as the Audax HD100 series, Peerless DT-100 and LR-10-DT, as found in many 1970s/80s designs. The DT 99 has an excellent radiation pattern..."
I was going to suggest The DT-99, but wasn't sure if it would fit your cutout without an adaptor ring.
The dimensions are shown here: https://www.monacor.com/products/pa...gy-and-speaker-building/hi-fi-tweeters/dt-99/
If you can make it fit then go for it. Monacor make good quality replacement drivers which are used in many speaker renovations.
Note that the recommended crossover frequency is 2,500 Hz (12dB/octave). I don't know if that matches the crossover frequency of your T6V.
In the event that the tweeter turns out to be too loud, you can simply attenuate it by wiring a suitable low ohm value, 5/10 W ceramic resistor in series with its positive lead - 2.0 ohm may be a reasonable starting value for experimentation.
Apparently, the T6 had the crossover at 2.8kHz, so I guess it's possible the "V" version is similar.
jeff
The DT-99 should fit the lip perfectly. I'd just need to Dremel out 2.5 millimeters on two areas of the lip for the wire leads, which I am thinking should not impact the sound. The current tweeter has zero info on it, unfortunately. I did see the crossover on eBay but was disappointed that it didn't provide any additional insights.
The V version has magnetically shielded speakers for back-in-the-day tube monitors. I don't know if that would have made them use a different crossover.
Is 300 Hz close enough, or is that too much you think? My understanding is that the speaker's recommendation is usually greater than or equal to, which means the DT-99 should be good.
Thanks for all your insights, learned a few more things already.
There was a Chinese brand called HIFIDIY that had two different options that looked interesting, but my experience with Aliexpress stuff is it's either an incredible deal or a piece of junk, and it's often hard to tell.
German brands are often very consistent in my experience so still leaning towards those DT-99.
The V version has magnetically shielded speakers for back-in-the-day tube monitors. I don't know if that would have made them use a different crossover.
Is 300 Hz close enough, or is that too much you think? My understanding is that the speaker's recommendation is usually greater than or equal to, which means the DT-99 should be good.
Thanks for all your insights, learned a few more things already.
There was a Chinese brand called HIFIDIY that had two different options that looked interesting, but my experience with Aliexpress stuff is it's either an incredible deal or a piece of junk, and it's often hard to tell.
German brands are often very consistent in my experience so still leaning towards those DT-99.
Your understanding is correct - crossing the DT-99 over higher than 2,500 Hz is OK.
Monacor make good drivers. I used a pair of their tweeters in a loudspeaker renovation quite a few years ago and they are still going strong.
Well, I order two DT-99s from a well-rate seller on eBay for $91.85 shipped. Will take a little longer to get since I didn't see anywhere to get them in the US.
Wish me luck, thinking and hoping it should be an easy install. Hopefully, nothing else is wrong with these Auratones. Picked them up from an auction for what I felt was a decent price.
Probably should have done some more testing before ordering the tweeters, but I read it's not good to run a two-way with one of the speakers pulled out.
Wish me luck, thinking and hoping it should be an easy install. Hopefully, nothing else is wrong with these Auratones. Picked them up from an auction for what I felt was a decent price.
Probably should have done some more testing before ordering the tweeters, but I read it's not good to run a two-way with one of the speakers pulled out.
according the image in post #4 it is the WA10 (DT 100 H) from Peerless (one of my favorite dome tweeters) - sometimes available as private offer and NOS - e. g. under
https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anze...er-wa10-tv-oem-1-paar-nos/2135886937-172-1229
or
https://allegrolokalnie.pl/oferta/peerless-dt100-glosnik
datasheet is here:
https://www.diyparadiso.com/datasheets/speaker/peerless/dt100 wa8.htm
for finding out an appropriate and currently available successor dome tweeter I would ask here:
https://www.tymphany.com/contact/
Maybe recone kits are still available.
For me most significant feature of this obsolete tweeter model (always no-ferro versions) was a low value of Rms and thus high value of Qms - i. e. very high resolution even in the low level area.
Similar characteristic are to observe on the model "DT 105 H" (CC10) - go to
https://web.archive.org/web/20030320121304/http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/277-410.pdf
P.S.: In the DANTAX models "Avance" and "OPUS" this Peerless tweeter seems to have been deployed.
https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anze...er-wa10-tv-oem-1-paar-nos/2135886937-172-1229
or
https://allegrolokalnie.pl/oferta/peerless-dt100-glosnik
datasheet is here:
https://www.diyparadiso.com/datasheets/speaker/peerless/dt100 wa8.htm
for finding out an appropriate and currently available successor dome tweeter I would ask here:
https://www.tymphany.com/contact/
Maybe recone kits are still available.
For me most significant feature of this obsolete tweeter model (always no-ferro versions) was a low value of Rms and thus high value of Qms - i. e. very high resolution even in the low level area.
Similar characteristic are to observe on the model "DT 105 H" (CC10) - go to
https://web.archive.org/web/20030320121304/http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/277-410.pdf
P.S.: In the DANTAX models "Avance" and "OPUS" this Peerless tweeter seems to have been deployed.
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Wow, how did you find this info?
The original tweeter in the T6V looks to be a magnetically shielded version of the DT100 by my guess. Probably some sort of OEM for Auratone I bet, cause there is no label on mine of any sort.
It has the same plastic clipping mechanism onto the squarish metal part. The ones in my speaker have an extra magnet though, to shield against CRT monitors.
The plastic housing is what went bad on mine. The voice coil on the tweeter is likely still good. Although two of the leads snapped off one of them when the tweeter fell out of the cabinet, due to the cracked housing.
I could repair the originals if I could get my hands on the plastic housings. Resoldering the leads that snapped off would be possible.
Although I already ordered the Monacor DT-99. They aren't as high-watt as the DT100. But I wonder if they are named similarly for any reason. And how compatible are they with the Peerless DT100 otherwise?
I don't speak German but I wonder if this thread is saying the SR10 is a possible replacement: https://www.lautsprecherforum.com/forum/index.php?mode=thread&id=1170
The original tweeter in the T6V looks to be a magnetically shielded version of the DT100 by my guess. Probably some sort of OEM for Auratone I bet, cause there is no label on mine of any sort.
It has the same plastic clipping mechanism onto the squarish metal part. The ones in my speaker have an extra magnet though, to shield against CRT monitors.
The plastic housing is what went bad on mine. The voice coil on the tweeter is likely still good. Although two of the leads snapped off one of them when the tweeter fell out of the cabinet, due to the cracked housing.
I could repair the originals if I could get my hands on the plastic housings. Resoldering the leads that snapped off would be possible.
Although I already ordered the Monacor DT-99. They aren't as high-watt as the DT100. But I wonder if they are named similarly for any reason. And how compatible are they with the Peerless DT100 otherwise?
I don't speak German but I wonder if this thread is saying the SR10 is a possible replacement: https://www.lautsprecherforum.com/forum/index.php?mode=thread&id=1170
Google translate: https://www-lautsprecherforum-com.t...l=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp
jeff
jeff
Should have thought to use Google Translate. Thanks.
I tried registering for Kleinanzeigen and it wouldn't let me. I would gladly buy that pair of tweeters if I could. I got some IP range block errors. Maybe they are excluding the US or something.
Curious how comparable the Monacor DT-99s are with the Peerless DT-100s.
I tried registering for Kleinanzeigen and it wouldn't let me. I would gladly buy that pair of tweeters if I could. I got some IP range block errors. Maybe they are excluding the US or something.
Curious how comparable the Monacor DT-99s are with the Peerless DT-100s.
Managed to find two Peerless tweeters on Reverb: https://reverb.com/item/13199264-unbranded-4-6-ohm-round-hi-fi-tweeter-b
They were labeled as unbranded but that style of housing seems pretty proprietary. Right?
Hoping, these are a closer match than the Monacor DT-99s. Would you all cancel the Monacor order? Would new Monacor DT-99s be better? Or would something closer to the originals be better?
The speakers from Reverb are labeled as 6 ohm but all the DT100 I saw were labeled 8/6 ohm. I could also just use the housing from the Reverb set and use the original parts otherwise.
Is there a good way to compare the diaphragms? To see if they are the same? As I mentioned earlier the two leads broke off the original diaphragms. So if I can use an intact one that would be great.
They were labeled as unbranded but that style of housing seems pretty proprietary. Right?
Hoping, these are a closer match than the Monacor DT-99s. Would you all cancel the Monacor order? Would new Monacor DT-99s be better? Or would something closer to the originals be better?
The speakers from Reverb are labeled as 6 ohm but all the DT100 I saw were labeled 8/6 ohm. I could also just use the housing from the Reverb set and use the original parts otherwise.
Is there a good way to compare the diaphragms? To see if they are the same? As I mentioned earlier the two leads broke off the original diaphragms. So if I can use an intact one that would be great.
Fortunately, the Monacor DT-99 is said to be a good value replacement for the Peerless DT-100.
I see the unbranded tweeters on Reverb have been sold.
As a general rule, I would be wary about buying second hand tweeters, there's no telling how they will perform.
