Solder - the wdm in JRiver is known to be glitchy for some of us. My 6 year old pc in the basement will run with it just fine, but my main pc (2-3 years old) has issues with audio dropouts. Depends on your specific hw and configuration.
Son of a glitch: I am growing fond of JRiver, not to mention that I am rather dependent upon it for my x-over right now 🙂 REW seems to have the most problems, and it is not due to CPU load as far as I can tell. I did find a possible work-around: use an "external sweep" which is much less convenient but "appears" to work. You just record the measurement sweep you will normally use to a WAV file. REW stays running (I told it to "output" to ASIO channel 8, not used, and monitor channel 1 where the mic is). JRiver will play the WAV file. You have to get the timing between start measurement and playing in JRiver pretty close but it seems to work.
Sent from my NV570P using Tapatalk
Sent from my NV570P using Tapatalk
Smartass idea of the day (and it's only 5:55 AM!) Just use a coax and smallest cab you want. A mini Synergy with an omni radiation pattern 🙄
Sent from my NV570P using Tapatalk
Sent from my NV570P using Tapatalk
Beau - no progress but I have a new one I'm going to start on once I find time.
Solder - you can use the "loopback" feature in mc rather than the wdm. That works fine on my pc that doesn't like the wdm. I don't have time to explain how it works right now but you should be able to find the info in the JRiver wiki.....or search my posts on the JRiver board I'm sure I've explained it before over there.
Solder - you can use the "loopback" feature in mc rather than the wdm. That works fine on my pc that doesn't like the wdm. I don't have time to explain how it works right now but you should be able to find the info in the JRiver wiki.....or search my posts on the JRiver board I'm sure I've explained it before over there.
Turning a blind ear to speaker appearance.
natehansen66: thanks for the tip. I have not yet hunted the loopback feature in JRiver (as opposed to WDM, which works ok except the aforementioned hiccuping 🙂 ). The next comment belongs on one of the DSP threads, but what the heck?
I've fiddled with some buffer values and at least some REW sweeps are smoother. Another curious thing is that, even though REW will complain the reading may have been corrupted, several sweeps in a row are substantially identical. There are minor differences in phase but very small. While I rarely use it, of about 5 sweeps and checking the estimated impulse response delays, they were identical within about .05 mSec which I think is pretty precise.
For the present I am quite pleased with my current horns. The next issue to tackle si to improve appearance. These sound like heaven but look like hell 🙂
natehansen66: thanks for the tip. I have not yet hunted the loopback feature in JRiver (as opposed to WDM, which works ok except the aforementioned hiccuping 🙂 ). The next comment belongs on one of the DSP threads, but what the heck?
I've fiddled with some buffer values and at least some REW sweeps are smoother. Another curious thing is that, even though REW will complain the reading may have been corrupted, several sweeps in a row are substantially identical. There are minor differences in phase but very small. While I rarely use it, of about 5 sweeps and checking the estimated impulse response delays, they were identical within about .05 mSec which I think is pretty precise.
For the present I am quite pleased with my current horns. The next issue to tackle si to improve appearance. These sound like heaven but look like hell 🙂
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No guarantee it would heal in your situation but looking those terminations can be some of your phase problems into REW, i never forget when member wesayso revealed that when he shifted to solid core from stranded multiwire and suddenly got super staple phase plots in REW, and yours for me looks much worse with those colored crocodile terminals and wire not intended for use in speaker setup.
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It's even worse than it looks!
Your comment on my sloppy wiring is valid. The "prototype" connections are (barely) joined using alligator clips and scotch tape to reduce risk of shorts when cats play with wires 🙂
The speakers themselves are "currently" (bad EE pun) wired with solid core twisted pair, not sure gauge, which I would think is closer to "telephone wire" than usual speaker wire. While I will agree that in extreme cases speaker wiring can be an issue (e.g. you are using too thin wire for a long speaker run, and you live ten meters from a 100 KW AM transmission tower, yes you may have some "issues" ), it's also worth noting that probably nothing more than power or speaker wiring is a topic of much heated debate, that is nearly all ********, and very small on science 😀
I will keep my Ac-power-cords-used-as-speaker-cables until someone shows me some peer-reviewed evidence to the contrary 🙂
For my phase issues, I blame the obviously corrupt sweep tones due to my set-up. Phase readings show anomalies, but interestingly, frequency sweeps seem to be credible. For example, I post today a sweep of my current system, with EQ previously dialed in. I typically use the same EQ curve for both channels, which is either the right or wrong way to do it, depending upon your opinion 😛 Note that this is not supposed to be "flat"; it is quite close to my personal "house curve" as verified in REW's EQ window.
What I find interesting is how (relatively) similar the left and right channels are. This is with REW's "Psy" EQ curve. They are near enough that my urge to fiddle with the system was subdued at least today 🙄
Your comment on my sloppy wiring is valid. The "prototype" connections are (barely) joined using alligator clips and scotch tape to reduce risk of shorts when cats play with wires 🙂
The speakers themselves are "currently" (bad EE pun) wired with solid core twisted pair, not sure gauge, which I would think is closer to "telephone wire" than usual speaker wire. While I will agree that in extreme cases speaker wiring can be an issue (e.g. you are using too thin wire for a long speaker run, and you live ten meters from a 100 KW AM transmission tower, yes you may have some "issues" ), it's also worth noting that probably nothing more than power or speaker wiring is a topic of much heated debate, that is nearly all ********, and very small on science 😀
I will keep my Ac-power-cords-used-as-speaker-cables until someone shows me some peer-reviewed evidence to the contrary 🙂
For my phase issues, I blame the obviously corrupt sweep tones due to my set-up. Phase readings show anomalies, but interestingly, frequency sweeps seem to be credible. For example, I post today a sweep of my current system, with EQ previously dialed in. I typically use the same EQ curve for both channels, which is either the right or wrong way to do it, depending upon your opinion 😛 Note that this is not supposed to be "flat"; it is quite close to my personal "house curve" as verified in REW's EQ window.
What I find interesting is how (relatively) similar the left and right channels are. This is with REW's "Psy" EQ curve. They are near enough that my urge to fiddle with the system was subdued at least today 🙄
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A thought experiment in greed 
Please help the Ijit in the enjoyable pastime of:
Which pair of Danley Sound Labs speakers would I buy if I had a large sum of cash to spend* ? :spend:
I want to put a few constraints on this daydream: only two speakers. Don't worry about bass; it might go low enogh, or Ijit can use his existing sub-[standard]-woofer until he gets another Large Sum of Money and can buy a Armageddon Tapped Horn to go with it 😀
My intended use is neither a stadium nor a church, but a normal living room. Ceiling is angled, and open plan, but call a 20x24 foot floor plan. My question boils down to which of the several angles of coverage is most appropriate? I guess any of them would work... The SH50 is the ur-Synergy, but many people seem to aim for about 90 horizontal and (less) vertical coverage. I was thinking the SH69 would be very close...?
*Now, on to find that Large Sum of Money. If I sell my plasma about 1000 times, and bank the proceeds .... 🙂
Please help the Ijit in the enjoyable pastime of:
Which pair of Danley Sound Labs speakers would I buy if I had a large sum of cash to spend* ? :spend:
I want to put a few constraints on this daydream: only two speakers. Don't worry about bass; it might go low enogh, or Ijit can use his existing sub-[standard]-woofer until he gets another Large Sum of Money and can buy a Armageddon Tapped Horn to go with it 😀
My intended use is neither a stadium nor a church, but a normal living room. Ceiling is angled, and open plan, but call a 20x24 foot floor plan. My question boils down to which of the several angles of coverage is most appropriate? I guess any of them would work... The SH50 is the ur-Synergy, but many people seem to aim for about 90 horizontal and (less) vertical coverage. I was thinking the SH69 would be very close...?
*Now, on to find that Large Sum of Money. If I sell my plasma about 1000 times, and bank the proceeds .... 🙂
Best audio website title goes to...
Hifi Pig - hifi reviews and hifi news.
Apparently a British web site and audio magazine. Typical snooty high end stuff. The only brand I've heard (of) is KEF.
Hifi Pig - hifi reviews and hifi news.
Apparently a British web site and audio magazine. Typical snooty high end stuff. The only brand I've heard (of) is KEF.
Side Ijit project: horn powered from headphone jack
I know this has already been done. I was surprised to find it was done a hundred years ago too. Here is a link to an antique!
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/early-headphone-horn-speaker-excellent-crystal
I would update this just a tad: cardboard or coroplast for the horn(s) and probably sacrifice a cheap pair of phones...
Or WTF, If I could buy the authentic article, I could use my STAX "Earspeakers" with it 🙂
I know this has already been done. I was surprised to find it was done a hundred years ago too. Here is a link to an antique!
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/early-headphone-horn-speaker-excellent-crystal
I would update this just a tad: cardboard or coroplast for the horn(s) and probably sacrifice a cheap pair of phones...
Or WTF, If I could buy the authentic article, I could use my STAX "Earspeakers" with it 🙂
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Possible restoration project (not for me tho)...
This would be an interesting DIY restoration project for some one so inclined. Here is a pair from the Early Danley period 🙂 a beat to hell pair of Yorkville U15 at perhaps 1/3 retail new (but needs new drivers etc.) While it won't be a "Synergy" I seem to recall that Yorkville isn't as tight-fisted with replacement parts, to the point that unethical DIYers will order the horn and drivers and make their own Unity 🙂 Here is your chance to redeem yourself and buy the authentic (if trashed) product 🙄
Lot of 2 Yorkville Unity U15 3 Way Passive Loudspeaker Speaker 800 WPGM 4R Imp | eBay
This would be an interesting DIY restoration project for some one so inclined. Here is a pair from the Early Danley period 🙂 a beat to hell pair of Yorkville U15 at perhaps 1/3 retail new (but needs new drivers etc.) While it won't be a "Synergy" I seem to recall that Yorkville isn't as tight-fisted with replacement parts, to the point that unethical DIYers will order the horn and drivers and make their own Unity 🙂 Here is your chance to redeem yourself and buy the authentic (if trashed) product 🙄
Lot of 2 Yorkville Unity U15 3 Way Passive Loudspeaker Speaker 800 WPGM 4R Imp | eBay
"Look, I'll pay you for it, what the f--k" (Van Halen)
Did some more price history searching, submitted a ridiculously lowball offer and the seller accepted (More likely: seller is elated that he gets to unload a busted pair of speakers to some fool down in Florida 😀 ) Assuming they arrived as promised, please expect me to start whining about how to repair my latest acquisition some time in July. Given my wheeler dealer skills, I expect to be able to restore a pair of U15's to like new performance for only slightly more than the cost of new ones 😱
I'm actually starting to consider selling off some of my cherished (but unused) audio inventory, including my beloved B--e 901's 😛
Did some more price history searching, submitted a ridiculously lowball offer and the seller accepted (More likely: seller is elated that he gets to unload a busted pair of speakers to some fool down in Florida 😀 ) Assuming they arrived as promised, please expect me to start whining about how to repair my latest acquisition some time in July. Given my wheeler dealer skills, I expect to be able to restore a pair of U15's to like new performance for only slightly more than the cost of new ones 😱
I'm actually starting to consider selling off some of my cherished (but unused) audio inventory, including my beloved B--e 901's 😛
New toy arrived (Unity U15 pair)!
I volunteer at a tiny storefront, a convenient required (why?) business address for delivery. I "worked" today, conveiently the day the freight co. dropped off the Unities. He even helped load them in my car. After some simple clean-up, I am running them full range off my iNuke NU3000. Nothing obviously wrong with them; the seller said LF/Mids issues. I haven't run any sweeps or really blasted them yet, but soon
I'm sure there's SOMETHING wrong. Only faults so far are one missing "#14X11/4 ALLEN FLHD WOOD SCRW J" and pair of "U15/U15P GRILL BARS".
Real Danley tech (albeit neolithic 🙄 ) for $575. Not too shabby (well, the carpet covering is...)
I volunteer at a tiny storefront, a convenient required (why?) business address for delivery. I "worked" today, conveiently the day the freight co. dropped off the Unities. He even helped load them in my car. After some simple clean-up, I am running them full range off my iNuke NU3000. Nothing obviously wrong with them; the seller said LF/Mids issues. I haven't run any sweeps or really blasted them yet, but soon
I'm sure there's SOMETHING wrong. Only faults so far are one missing "#14X11/4 ALLEN FLHD WOOD SCRW J" and pair of "U15/U15P GRILL BARS".
Real Danley tech (albeit neolithic 🙄 ) for $575. Not too shabby (well, the carpet covering is...)
Looks like a good score? I've been scouring local ads myself for some cheap gear but to no avail.
Happy hunting!
Yes, I consider my U15 pair a good catch. Doesn't USA "kit" "cost the bomb" (isn't that how they say it?) down in OZ? At least you have the option of domestically produced (marsupial?) Synergy clone from Spencer 😀
Well into day 2 of listening: I ran some sine sweeps yesterday, one channel shows high THD at woofer frequency, the 2nd shows a big drop (like -10 dB) in midrange; however I applied a "house EQ" for both channels and I'm damned if I can hear anything highly objectionable. They just sound good. I was expecting a blown mid but even taping or plugging over the injector holes doesn't reveal any obvious failing.
The carpet-covered cabs also are getting good service as new cat tree/scratching posts
At some point I'm going to open up the box and (try to) test each driver separately and almost the same thing: detach the stock wiring and run active amping pairs to each section (through one of the ports, of course).
There must be * something * wrong!!! 😕
Yes, I consider my U15 pair a good catch. Doesn't USA "kit" "cost the bomb" (isn't that how they say it?) down in OZ? At least you have the option of domestically produced (marsupial?) Synergy clone from Spencer 😀
Well into day 2 of listening: I ran some sine sweeps yesterday, one channel shows high THD at woofer frequency, the 2nd shows a big drop (like -10 dB) in midrange; however I applied a "house EQ" for both channels and I'm damned if I can hear anything highly objectionable. They just sound good. I was expecting a blown mid but even taping or plugging over the injector holes doesn't reveal any obvious failing.
The carpet-covered cabs also are getting good service as new cat tree/scratching posts
At some point I'm going to open up the box and (try to) test each driver separately and almost the same thing: detach the stock wiring and run active amping pairs to each section (through one of the ports, of course).
There must be * something * wrong!!! 😕
Not sure I've heard the Aussies use that expression but in Ireland we might say something costs a bomb, ex "I'd like to buy a synergy but sure don't they cost a bomb?"
There was a very odd, custom made, massive set of PA horns for sale locally but way too big for my lounge. Interesting to see such things even existing in Perth.
Most stuff that would be put in the trash in the states is labelled "vintage" over here and a few hundred bucks stuck on it.
There was a very odd, custom made, massive set of PA horns for sale locally but way too big for my lounge. Interesting to see such things even existing in Perth.
Most stuff that would be put in the trash in the states is labelled "vintage" over here and a few hundred bucks stuck on it.
My options with the Unity U15?
Considering the many options to modify my U15's (or not):
1. Keep "as is"; although listed as having problems, I have not yet found any serious driver issues. Pro: no risk of damage, zero cost. Con: no fun in tweaking!
2. Simple mods: open up the case and re-wire so that I can actively EQ everything. At same time, this allows me to test individual drivers for harder-to-detect defects. Pros: realtively easy (?), little risk of damage, reversible. Cons: None?
3. More extensive mods: Of the stock unit, my only "objection" is that this is far too powerful for home audio. The main issue is the woofer doesn't go low enough. Spec said 50 Hz but I measure 70 Hz. I want MORE 🙂 Based on old threads I've read elsewhere, it is not really worth putting a different 15" in the Yorkville cabinet. However, others put a Geddes waveguide in place of the Unity horn. Why couldn't I just put the Unity horn into a new cabinet, with woofer(s) of my choice below? Perhaps the easiest is just get a sub(s) to cover 70 Hz on down, and run the U15's as "tops" which is what they do in pro audio, isn't it? I'm doubtful there's any reasonable way to get 20 Hz (or even 40 Hz!) from the stock cab; also there is the resale value issue.
4. Do the reticulated foam mod. Relatively cheap but requires some hassle in cutting material to make the cone shaped plug.
Considering the many options to modify my U15's (or not):
1. Keep "as is"; although listed as having problems, I have not yet found any serious driver issues. Pro: no risk of damage, zero cost. Con: no fun in tweaking!
2. Simple mods: open up the case and re-wire so that I can actively EQ everything. At same time, this allows me to test individual drivers for harder-to-detect defects. Pros: realtively easy (?), little risk of damage, reversible. Cons: None?
3. More extensive mods: Of the stock unit, my only "objection" is that this is far too powerful for home audio. The main issue is the woofer doesn't go low enough. Spec said 50 Hz but I measure 70 Hz. I want MORE 🙂 Based on old threads I've read elsewhere, it is not really worth putting a different 15" in the Yorkville cabinet. However, others put a Geddes waveguide in place of the Unity horn. Why couldn't I just put the Unity horn into a new cabinet, with woofer(s) of my choice below? Perhaps the easiest is just get a sub(s) to cover 70 Hz on down, and run the U15's as "tops" which is what they do in pro audio, isn't it? I'm doubtful there's any reasonable way to get 20 Hz (or even 40 Hz!) from the stock cab; also there is the resale value issue.
4. Do the reticulated foam mod. Relatively cheap but requires some hassle in cutting material to make the cone shaped plug.
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