Help please with my poorly Stasis 2

Thanks mate , I have emailed Jon but no reply as yet.
I’ve already tried to source the transistors and found some ( or equivalents ) from a supplier in London but they nor any other suppliers have the others ( Motorola mps 6561 ebc) ,( 018mps a42 ) or Fpn 4250 ebc .
All of your listed transistors (if I decoded your part numbering correctly) are available for Mouser UK, and I would suspect any of the main components suppliers (Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, RS Components, etc.). Part numbers I looked up were MPS6561, MPSA42 and PN4250. All in stock.
I would buy from reputable suppliers and avoid places such as Dalbani, etc. You don't need to have counterfeit components adding to your troubles.
 
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If that amp is like the newer thresholds, you simply remove the screws holding the heat sinks to the bottom of the chassis, remove the screws holding it to the faceplate and then the heatsink assembly pops right off. So you can work on the channel with it flat on your bench. The red lines in the picture below indicate where the screws would go into the heatsinks. It looks like the RCA is mounted to the back panel.

You can use longer leads to power it up this way as well. I suspect you have V+, V- and GND going to the channel. The more astute Threshold enthusiast may notice something out of the ordinary about the channel in the picture below 🙂

1706912163139.png


Gary's suggestion of silicone wire is good. This stuff is pretty nice and innexpensive:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7NWX7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the signal stuff, if it is in good shape just leave it. It is probably a shielded coax.

With regards to the Stasis 2 repairs. If you are going to try a repair on the boards, I would change transistors on both channels - carefully along with other blown or dubious looking components, so that both channels were the same.
Not a terrible idea. Testing the potentially good channel and then fixing the bad channel would be the way to start.

The parts in the circle are what you should expect to see on the front stage board.

1706912869855.png


Again, identifying the parts that are blown and their purpose should lead you in the direction of finding out where the issue lies.
 
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Finding the original active devices will be tricky and your existing PCBs have a fair bit of damage to them.

I would consider building the revised front end on new PCBs. I just checked and it's pretty inexpensive getting the boards made at jlcpcb.com and the parts (or functional equivalents) are more or less available.

Good luck with your repair.
Thanks for the Advice Dennis .
The revised pcb’s are definitely the better option but it’s beyond my skill set to know how to populate the boards etc .

Andy
 
If that amp is like the newer thresholds, you simply remove the screws holding the heat sinks to the bottom of the chassis, remove the screws holding it to the faceplate and then the heatsink assembly pops right off. So you can work on the channel with it flat on your bench. The red lines in the picture below indicate where the screws would go into the heatsinks. It looks like the RCA is mounted to the back panel.

You can use longer leads to power it up this way as well. I suspect you have V+, V- and GND going to the channel. The more astute Threshold enthusiast may notice something out of the ordinary about the channel in the picture below 🙂

View attachment 1268379

Gary's suggestion of silicone wire is good. This stuff is pretty nice and innexpensive:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7NWX7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the signal stuff, if it is in good shape just leave it. It is probably a shielded coax.


Not a terrible idea. Testing the potentially good channel and then fixing the bad channel would be the way to start.

The parts in the circle are what you should expect to see on the front stage board.

View attachment 1268382

Again, identifying the parts that are blown and their purpose should lead you in the direction of finding out where the issue lies.
You guys are just amazing.
I have now been off the new revised boards and more .
 
All of your listed transistors (if I decoded your part numbering correctly) are available for Mouser UK, and I would suspect any of the main components suppliers (Mouser, Digikey, Farnell, RS Components, etc.). Part numbers I looked up were MPS6561, MPSA42 and PN4250. All in stock.
I would buy from reputable suppliers and avoid places such as Dalbani, etc. You don't need to have counterfeit components adding to your troubles.
Sorry Pars I wrote one of the part numbers wrong ( mps6561 ) should be mps6571 , which I can’t locate, I’m also confused by the mpsA42ebc and 018mpsA42 , are they the same thing ?
 
Yes mate that is correct.
I can’t find the 6571 anywhere other than eBay or one other place called Electronic surplus in USA , as I only need 2 I might just remove them from the board and test them with my Peak tester ( should do the job? )
It would be nice to get these original boards working now that I’ve started .
IMG_5180.jpeg
 
Just check the position of the MPSA92, there is only one in the circuit.

The amp wont work with an NPN transistor in that position - the other working channel must have the correct transistor in that place - so carefully compare between the two. What makes it hard is the fact that there is no component silk screen on the pcbs to identify the components.

This is where you will need the schematic printed out and carefully trace the connections to see what transistor is what according to the schematic.
 
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It sure does, orientate the flat on the transistor body to be facing the same way as the one you are replacing for the same type of transistor. google the transistor datasheet that will give the pin out data. The Atlas tester will also tell you the transistor type (NPN or PNP) and what pin each of the three coloured leads are connected to for C B E.

Note, some equivalent transistors could have different pin outs if using any.
 
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