hifi said:I belive that would be for the display.
The boards look quite similar to those I recently ripped out of my 904 and from what I recall this is the voltages required:
The Mcu + Display wanted +/-5V and 5V AC and 25V DC
The data proccessing chips used +/-5V. And the Servos where driven from +/- 9V
Also a reset pulse generator will be needed to make the player start if you replace the original regulator for the digital board. (wich had that function built in)
Here is what I did:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=794910#post794910
Whoooauau! That is some serious moding.
The case looks very much alike mine! I don't think I would go so far...
Ryssen said:The +-15v regulator on the 904 was not on the PSU board it was on the same board as the output IC´s and the dac!
Thanks!
I'm just looking at this:
Attachments
I said:
That is exactly what I had in mind
Bassivus said:The case looks very much alike mine! I don't think I would go so far...
Ruach said:The Pioneer PD-S505 is not similar to the 904. They may share a similar transport but the power supply and circuitry are totally different.
Modding the 505 will require more work.
That is exactly what I had in mind
There is a lot of space inside the 505. You can do more work with the 505.
You can construct a separate power supply (transformer, diodes, filter caps) for the DAC chip. (I believe that the chip uses +5V) and another separate supply for the +15V and -15V power supply for the opamps.
You may have to cut one or two of the copper threads. Do a simple trace on the rails.
Installing a clock would also help quite a fair bit. You can diy a simple clock based on Kwak's design.
If you have a bigger budget, there is clock guru in Singapore that developed a very good clock using super regulators as power supplies.
I believe that this clock outperforms a lot of clocks that you can find commercially.
http://www.effectiveaudiomod.com/Prod_Clock_products.htm.
You can contact him if you are keen (fyi, I am not related to the clock guru).
You can construct a separate power supply (transformer, diodes, filter caps) for the DAC chip. (I believe that the chip uses +5V) and another separate supply for the +15V and -15V power supply for the opamps.
You may have to cut one or two of the copper threads. Do a simple trace on the rails.
Installing a clock would also help quite a fair bit. You can diy a simple clock based on Kwak's design.
If you have a bigger budget, there is clock guru in Singapore that developed a very good clock using super regulators as power supplies.
I believe that this clock outperforms a lot of clocks that you can find commercially.
http://www.effectiveaudiomod.com/Prod_Clock_products.htm.
You can contact him if you are keen (fyi, I am not related to the clock guru).
Ruach said:
If you have a bigger budget, there is clock guru in Singapore that developed a very good clock using super regulators as power supplies.
I believe that this clock outperforms a lot of clocks that you can find commercially.
http://www.effectiveaudiomod.com/Prod_Clock_products.htm.
You can contact him if you are keen (fyi, I am not related to the clock guru).
EAM is an OEM customer of Tentlabs clock modules. EAM supplies their own power supplies which aren't as quiet as the Tentlabs modules, but their price is lower as well.
best
Thanks guys! I appreciate all said. However I'll have to stick to the low budget solution for now.
I have cut off muting transistors, and put in the AD826 that just arrived. Straight away everything is more opened and the overall tonality changed to better but I'm still unhappy with the image. It is undefined and two dimensional. I hope it will be some better after proper burn in. I still have to replace the diodes and change the caps as Guido suggested, but I have to make an order(and wait for ages to come) for that since my local shops have none of needed...
I have cut off muting transistors, and put in the AD826 that just arrived. Straight away everything is more opened and the overall tonality changed to better but I'm still unhappy with the image. It is undefined and two dimensional. I hope it will be some better after proper burn in. I still have to replace the diodes and change the caps as Guido suggested, but I have to make an order(and wait for ages to come) for that since my local shops have none of needed...
Bassivus said:Thanks guys! I appreciate all said. However I'll have to stick to the low budget solution for now.
I have cut off muting transistors, and put in the AD826 that just arrived. Straight away everything is more opened and the overall tonality changed to better but I'm still unhappy with the image. It is undefined and two dimensional. I hope it will be some better after proper burn in. I still have to replace the diodes and change the caps as Guido suggested, but I have to make an order(and wait for ages to come) for that since my local shops have none of needed...
Hi
Good ! Indeed, removal of muting transistors opens the soundstage. a good clock will help in terms of accuracy, staging and takes away colouration in the low end. Additionally, authority will win.
Farnell supplies to private individuals too, but a minimum order is needed
best
Hi Guido,
There are no tests that were done to compare the EAM clocks with your Tentlab clocks.
The EAM clocks use super regulators and in terms of noise performance, they will be quieter than a shunt-based regulator clock.
Furthermore, the super regulators are built using SMTs with shorter traces - less prone to pick up noises.
Although James Soh of EAM and I don't see eye-to-eye on some issues, I believe that the EAM Clock 2 has a very good implementation and it is proudly made in Singapore (except for the XO module). I have to be objective in my comments.
There are no tests that were done to compare the EAM clocks with your Tentlab clocks.
The EAM clocks use super regulators and in terms of noise performance, they will be quieter than a shunt-based regulator clock.
Furthermore, the super regulators are built using SMTs with shorter traces - less prone to pick up noises.
Although James Soh of EAM and I don't see eye-to-eye on some issues, I believe that the EAM Clock 2 has a very good implementation and it is proudly made in Singapore (except for the XO module). I have to be objective in my comments.
Ruach said:Hi Guido,
There are no tests that were done to compare the EAM clocks with your Tentlab clocks.
The EAM clocks use super regulators and in terms of noise performance, they will be quieter than a shunt-based regulator clock.
Furthermore, the super regulators are built using SMTs with shorter traces - less prone to pick up noises.
Although James Soh of EAM and I don't see eye-to-eye on some issues, I believe that the EAM Clock 2 has a very good implementation and it is proudly made in Singapore (except for the XO module). I have to be objective in my comments.
Hi
I have no objection to the EAM products, and have a good relationship with James Soh.
We discussed this earlier: Shunts vs super or whatever regulators
The noise does not depend on the principle of regulation, but on the implemantation of both shunt and series. I also calculated that the noise spec of the EAM reg is 60dB worse than the Tentlabs reg. The discussion about SMD in this case is a non-issue. before you all jump on me:I stated earlier that there is either a measurement or design error w.r.t. the super regulator.
If someone sends a super reg, I'll measure the noise. Without correct measurements it makes no sense to discuss specs.
best
Take a look at this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=492345#post492345
It seems to me that the two players (here mentioned s501 and mine s505) share almost identical layout! Pretty extensive mod.. list. I'm eager to hear the comments!!
I have the diode(1N4007) suggested by PMik in above mentioned thread but I have to wait for Schottky type that Guido suggested. Is there much difference?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=492345#post492345
It seems to me that the two players (here mentioned s501 and mine s505) share almost identical layout! Pretty extensive mod.. list. I'm eager to hear the comments!!
I have the diode(1N4007) suggested by PMik in above mentioned thread but I have to wait for Schottky type that Guido suggested. Is there much difference?
zanash said:the schottky's will transform the player .........I used 11DQ10's on a
pd 609 [?] to great effect. Best bang for buck mod !
I made the order with the Farnell for the parts but I will have to wait 2-3 weeks...
zanash said:... you do not need snubbers so if the are already fitted its best to remove them
Could you please explain because I didn't understand what does it means? What are the snubbers?
BTW I have read your thread "Generic CD Player Mods" on the Zero Gain. GREAT THREAD
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