For me no one can say the Garrard zero100s is a rumble machine it is simply not trough, if there is rumble than it is your own fault, do some maintenance. There is rumble but it is within limits.
Ok the rumble is no problem anymore, the next step is to improve the bass and the overall dynamics. I think an idler drive must be capable to give a tight and controlled bass.
As many of you have said on his forum the arm is a peace of junk and probably responsible for this. It is said the arm bearings are not from the best quality and there is a lot of mass below the arm because of the automatic mechanism. What makes it more difficult for me is that the bolt thread of the Z100s is probably UNF, BSW or Withworth or?? Difficult to get in Holland.
It is a waste off money to buy a high end cartridge.
So next step is to improve the arm. I have taken the arm apart and I think I already know what is responsible for the tolerance. At least I hope so. But this is another chapter, so to be continued.
Ok the rumble is no problem anymore, the next step is to improve the bass and the overall dynamics. I think an idler drive must be capable to give a tight and controlled bass.
As many of you have said on his forum the arm is a peace of junk and probably responsible for this. It is said the arm bearings are not from the best quality and there is a lot of mass below the arm because of the automatic mechanism. What makes it more difficult for me is that the bolt thread of the Z100s is probably UNF, BSW or Withworth or?? Difficult to get in Holland.
It is a waste off money to buy a high end cartridge.
So next step is to improve the arm. I have taken the arm apart and I think I already know what is responsible for the tolerance. At least I hope so. But this is another chapter, so to be continued.
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Hi all -
I've just been given a Goldring GL88 (No Base or arm) for nothing !
Question: What should I do with it ?
Consider : I have just rebuilt an LP12 ; Moddified a Thorens TD166 (I really enjoyed experimenting with different armbase-mount materials) ; Overhaulled a Systemdek IIX 900 ; Did a little playing around with a PT Too - but the Thorens took more of my time up, so will have to get back to it ; The Oracle delphi III just sits there starring at me !!
Just to add insult to injury, you'll cringe when I tell you that about a year ago I threw out a Goldring GL75. I thought "..what a piece of crap...." but I did keep the platter and bearing (!)
I blame Ebay !!!
-Andy-
I've just been given a Goldring GL88 (No Base or arm) for nothing !
Question: What should I do with it ?
Consider : I have just rebuilt an LP12 ; Moddified a Thorens TD166 (I really enjoyed experimenting with different armbase-mount materials) ; Overhaulled a Systemdek IIX 900 ; Did a little playing around with a PT Too - but the Thorens took more of my time up, so will have to get back to it ; The Oracle delphi III just sits there starring at me !!
Just to add insult to injury, you'll cringe when I tell you that about a year ago I threw out a Goldring GL75. I thought "..what a piece of crap...." but I did keep the platter and bearing (!)
I blame Ebay !!!
-Andy-
Andy,
The only thing I can say is that there is a difference in idler principle between a Goldring compared with a Garrard.
The Garrard idler wheel is horizontal, most of the others have vertical wheels. I choose the Garrard because I thought a horizontal idler is a better construction because it gives more torque. But maybe I am totally wrong.
The only thing I can say is that there is a difference in idler principle between a Goldring compared with a Garrard.
The Garrard idler wheel is horizontal, most of the others have vertical wheels. I choose the Garrard because I thought a horizontal idler is a better construction because it gives more torque. But maybe I am totally wrong.
There was a lot of play in the upper part of the pivot. What I did was simply to glue the both parts with each other. Because I have made a manual TT of it is no longer necessary that these parts could turn. Almost all the play (it’s millimeters of play!!) comes from this upper part I glued with each other.
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For me this was not enough stil there was some play left in the pivot.
I managed to get almost all the play from the entire arm. This by modification or adjusting almost all the hinges and bearings.
I was really proud on myself there was no sensible play left. Before modification there was millimeters of play!!!
The arm has made very rigid and feels firm. So this must sound wonderful.
I managed to get almost all the play from the entire arm. This by modification or adjusting almost all the hinges and bearings.
I was really proud on myself there was no sensible play left. Before modification there was millimeters of play!!!
The arm has made very rigid and feels firm. So this must sound wonderful.
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The arm is now very rigid and feels firm. So this must sound wonderful.
My expectations where very high, all the play is removed the arm is rigid it must sound great. I am hoping for a fast bass and overall more dynamics.
But the trough is its sounds terrible. 😡 Bass is ok but there is a nasty resonance you can hear very easy especially with human voice. With a unmodified arm there is some to but difficult to detect. I was hoping that this will go away but after modification there is a lot more.
Now I am desperate I made arm without play and rigid but its sounds like jukebox TT.
I am loosing my love for the Garrard Zero 100s.
What to do now????? Any suggestion to win the heart from Z100s again????
😕
My expectations where very high, all the play is removed the arm is rigid it must sound great. I am hoping for a fast bass and overall more dynamics.
But the trough is its sounds terrible. 😡 Bass is ok but there is a nasty resonance you can hear very easy especially with human voice. With a unmodified arm there is some to but difficult to detect. I was hoping that this will go away but after modification there is a lot more.
Now I am desperate I made arm without play and rigid but its sounds like jukebox TT.
I am loosing my love for the Garrard Zero 100s.
What to do now????? Any suggestion to win the heart from Z100s again????
😕
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Triumph:
made new heavy base
use just chassis
put another (good ) arm
and then you Linn will have some job to do - to compete 😉
quote from nutschell hifi ( and I know what they tallkin',just because I have 930,G401,L75 and L78 ) :
"Tech Note: If you've ever been in a traditional radio station with turntables - and I probably date myself here - you've seen a pair of heavy-duty, high-torque turntables in a gray steel console that weighs several hundred pounds. DJs can be clumsy in their hyperactive way, and the console has to be heavy enough to withstand a DJ colliding full-force against it without the phonograph jarring or skipping a groove. As a result, broadcast turntables, even as far back as the 1930s, were always mounted in consoles weighing hundreds of pounds.
When audiophiles listen to turntables that were actually used for AM and FM radio broadcasts - Garrard 301 and 401, Thorens TD 124, various models of EMT, various Technics models - they were all intended for mounting in far heavier consoles than typical lightweight domestic TT bases. The re-discovery of what appear to be massive TT bases is nothing more than using these turntables as they were originally meant to be used. And - surprise, surprise - they sound really good, just as they did back in the days of quality FM broadcasting. "
then,and only then-when you have heavy plinth -you can use full potential of sayed chassis........including better arm;
you can try -for test - to mount arm from Linn
and then hear results.......even if I have some doubts in compatibility
made new heavy base
use just chassis
put another (good ) arm
and then you Linn will have some job to do - to compete 😉
quote from nutschell hifi ( and I know what they tallkin',just because I have 930,G401,L75 and L78 ) :
"Tech Note: If you've ever been in a traditional radio station with turntables - and I probably date myself here - you've seen a pair of heavy-duty, high-torque turntables in a gray steel console that weighs several hundred pounds. DJs can be clumsy in their hyperactive way, and the console has to be heavy enough to withstand a DJ colliding full-force against it without the phonograph jarring or skipping a groove. As a result, broadcast turntables, even as far back as the 1930s, were always mounted in consoles weighing hundreds of pounds.
When audiophiles listen to turntables that were actually used for AM and FM radio broadcasts - Garrard 301 and 401, Thorens TD 124, various models of EMT, various Technics models - they were all intended for mounting in far heavier consoles than typical lightweight domestic TT bases. The re-discovery of what appear to be massive TT bases is nothing more than using these turntables as they were originally meant to be used. And - surprise, surprise - they sound really good, just as they did back in the days of quality FM broadcasting. "
then,and only then-when you have heavy plinth -you can use full potential of sayed chassis........including better arm;
you can try -for test - to mount arm from Linn
and then hear results.......even if I have some doubts in compatibilityTriumph, sorry to hear that your still having resonance problems, just a little note that might help.
I have found that some resonances in the upper mid/highs are caused by the poor interfacing of the counterweight to the arm and the little dial ring attached to it . If you have tightened evrything else up the vibration will still have to go somewhere and this is where it sometimes ends up. The result is grainy vocals and general harshness in my experience.
Have you looked at this?
To tighten this up you could use blobs of blutac or wrap the shaft in a couple of layers of plumbers tape.
Al the best.
I have found that some resonances in the upper mid/highs are caused by the poor interfacing of the counterweight to the arm and the little dial ring attached to it . If you have tightened evrything else up the vibration will still have to go somewhere and this is where it sometimes ends up. The result is grainy vocals and general harshness in my experience.
Have you looked at this?
To tighten this up you could use blobs of blutac or wrap the shaft in a couple of layers of plumbers tape.
Al the best.
Zen Mod,
The sport is to get a descend sound with this smart looking arm. So I am not going to try another one, but you are right there are better arms that will better match this idler machine.
Zero one,
On this picture you can see that the weight is in rubber. Could this be the cause?
I really do not get why the sound is worse and I did so much to improve the arm. The is almost no play. It must sound well what a deception.
Any other suggestions???
The sport is to get a descend sound with this smart looking arm. So I am not going to try another one, but you are right there are better arms that will better match this idler machine.
Zero one,
On this picture you can see that the weight is in rubber. Could this be the cause?
I really do not get why the sound is worse and I did so much to improve the arm. The is almost no play. It must sound well what a deception.
Any other suggestions???
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May I suggest a nice rusty old nail in the front end of the arm ?
It might get rid of those nasty noises you are talking about ?!?!
😀
Seriously....I understand that maybe you are wanting to get a good sound outta the 'whole' package you have there, but I think you are kidding yourself. You will truly hear what the motor unit can give you if you replace the arm with something relatively cheap like a Linn Basik Plus tonearm (You will be very surprised- believe me !!)
If you just want to experiment for the hell of it, then please do so.
But if you really want to get access to some really better sounds, then its best to conceed that this arm ain't gonna do it for you.
Warmest regards,
-Andy-
It might get rid of those nasty noises you are talking about ?!?!
😀
Seriously....I understand that maybe you are wanting to get a good sound outta the 'whole' package you have there, but I think you are kidding yourself. You will truly hear what the motor unit can give you if you replace the arm with something relatively cheap like a Linn Basik Plus tonearm (You will be very surprised- believe me !!)
If you just want to experiment for the hell of it, then please do so.
But if you really want to get access to some really better sounds, then its best to conceed that this arm ain't gonna do it for you.
Warmest regards,
-Andy-
Triumph. it is hard to tell from the pic if the counterweight could be a problem, check for any looseness at all. Rubber is an odd choice for a counterweight so I am not sure how it would translate to the sound, but it is entirely possible it is reintroducing vibrations back into the arm.
Another thing you can try is to wrap the arm with self sticking cloth tape (very thin stuff,) and underneath the tape in the centre par of the arm wrap about 4 layers of plumbers teflon tape....this may stop the resonances getting back into the system.
Overall I think the resonances you are describing mean there is looseness somewhere in the works.
One Q, what is the contact between the headshell and arm like, is there any play at all....this can wreak havoc even with the smallest amount of play.
Another thing you can try is to wrap the arm with self sticking cloth tape (very thin stuff,) and underneath the tape in the centre par of the arm wrap about 4 layers of plumbers teflon tape....this may stop the resonances getting back into the system.
Overall I think the resonances you are describing mean there is looseness somewhere in the works.
One Q, what is the contact between the headshell and arm like, is there any play at all....this can wreak havoc even with the smallest amount of play.
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