For those numbers, the only difference in my program is the length of the vent, at 5.35".... I doubt it would make a big difference.
It's a software I use to do quick checks on volume and vents. You just need to key in a few params and click optimise!
Very quick, but also limited to just that.
It won't give vent air velocity, cone displacement, or even output level.
But for quick checks, it flies !
It's called QSpeaker.
QSpeakers home page
They are Windows app (64 and 32) but run fine on Mac using Wine.
There's also a Linux port out there.
PS. X, when do you ever sleep?
It's a software I use to do quick checks on volume and vents. You just need to key in a few params and click optimise!
Very quick, but also limited to just that.
It won't give vent air velocity, cone displacement, or even output level.
But for quick checks, it flies !
It's called QSpeaker.
QSpeakers home page
They are Windows app (64 and 32) but run fine on Mac using Wine.
There's also a Linux port out there.
PS. X, when do you ever sleep?
Thanks. I don't think that the W5-2143 is as appreciated by the Fullrange community as it should be. It is a good looking, well-priced, well-built, smooth sounding fullrange with bass capability and superb highs. Plus, it measures smooth and flat - so good for all genre's of music. Some high sensitivity fullranges are expensive, shouty, and suited for only girl & guitar or maybe small jazz ensemble or string quartet. Finally, it has 90dB (at 8ohms) sensitivity. What's not to like?
I just downloaded the QSpeaker program. You are sure this doesn't have trojans or viruses right? I am getting all sorts of warnings from my AV program that this is unregistred and unknown...
I just downloaded the QSpeaker program. You are sure this doesn't have trojans or viruses right? I am getting all sorts of warnings from my AV program that this is unregistred and unknown...
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I'm pretty sure it's unregistered and unknown to Microsoft.
This guy in France did it a while back, and offers it for free.
You must be on W10... I tried W10 and trashed it quickly... the darn thing was popping up alerts every time I was touching the mouse!
Mac is doing the same thing lately... if a programmer doesn't publish to their App Store (and it costs a lot to be an "approved" programmer) then they make it really hard for normal people to download it and run it. And of course, it pops that this app is not approved by Apple and so on...
The pirates have become the money grabbers.
But I digress...
I wish Linux was a bit more up to date with the times....
This guy in France did it a while back, and offers it for free.
You must be on W10... I tried W10 and trashed it quickly... the darn thing was popping up alerts every time I was touching the mouse!
Mac is doing the same thing lately... if a programmer doesn't publish to their App Store (and it costs a lot to be an "approved" programmer) then they make it really hard for normal people to download it and run it. And of course, it pops that this app is not approved by Apple and so on...
The pirates have become the money grabbers.
But I digress...
I wish Linux was a bit more up to date with the times....
Fact that he provides source code and resides in France intead of China/Russia/Nigeria is more reassuring.
Well, I still have Avast as secondary AV and it did not say anything. It was the Win10 MS popup. I haven't had too many actually.
I still use Akabak for all my real simulations, but that requires me to open a VM and start it up and enter the driver T/S params (although I have a huge database in Akabak format of hundreds of drivers by now after modeling speakers for the last 7 years).
This design still checks out - tuning is somewhere in range 55Hz to 60Hz, but that can easily be tweaked with the vent length. The 55Hz to 60Hz is about ideal though, I would not go lower than 55Hz. That is fine as the kick drum is centered there.
Well, I still have Avast as secondary AV and it did not say anything. It was the Win10 MS popup. I haven't had too many actually.
I still use Akabak for all my real simulations, but that requires me to open a VM and start it up and enter the driver T/S params (although I have a huge database in Akabak format of hundreds of drivers by now after modeling speakers for the last 7 years).
This design still checks out - tuning is somewhere in range 55Hz to 60Hz, but that can easily be tweaked with the vent length. The 55Hz to 60Hz is about ideal though, I would not go lower than 55Hz. That is fine as the kick drum is centered there.
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As an IT guy I can tell you that the program should be safe, otherwise he wouldn't have bothered releasing the source. I think that using the Qt libraries and not Windows native GUI is triggering the AV
PS: if you have a secondary AV, just keep it for offline scanning. Turn off the live protection otherwise it will interfere with the primary one.
Really really thank you very much for taking your time to design and simulate a new plan.
I have a question: my current speakers already go low ~50 hz but I find them somewhat lacking in my space. Do you think that something more could be achieved without compromising the sound?
PS: if you have a secondary AV, just keep it for offline scanning. Turn off the live protection otherwise it will interfere with the primary one.
Really really thank you very much for taking your time to design and simulate a new plan.
I have a question: my current speakers already go low ~50 hz but I find them somewhat lacking in my space. Do you think that something more could be achieved without compromising the sound?
You can try tuning it lower by making the vent a bit longer and use room gain to reach 30Hz. So make the vent about 7in long using a taped on slot extender. If it sounds good, glue it in place (from the inside).
If you want satisfying deep bass. Just spend $100 on a home theater style 10in bass reflex sub with built in plate amp and crossover. Connect it your main speakers and adjust to taste. I find that a 10in sub is more than enough for any regular listening of music. Don’t need stereo as sub is omnidirectional below 80Hz.
In US market I like the Polk PSW10. There are similar products in Europe by other makers.
If you really want to DIY your sub, get a 10in subwoofer driver and make a cube and tune it to 30Hz. Drive it with a 2.1 channel amp. The amp will have a frequency and amplitude adjustment and low pass for the sub output. Problem is, you will never be able to make one that is as well performing as a $100 commercial one of you spent $100 on parts.
If you want satisfying deep bass. Just spend $100 on a home theater style 10in bass reflex sub with built in plate amp and crossover. Connect it your main speakers and adjust to taste. I find that a 10in sub is more than enough for any regular listening of music. Don’t need stereo as sub is omnidirectional below 80Hz.
In US market I like the Polk PSW10. There are similar products in Europe by other makers.
If you really want to DIY your sub, get a 10in subwoofer driver and make a cube and tune it to 30Hz. Drive it with a 2.1 channel amp. The amp will have a frequency and amplitude adjustment and low pass for the sub output. Problem is, you will never be able to make one that is as well performing as a $100 commercial one of you spent $100 on parts.
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You can try tuning it lower by making the vent a bit longer and use room gain to reach 30Hz. So make the vent about 7in long using a taped on slot extender. If it sounds good, glue it in place (from the inside).
If you want satisfying deep bass. Just spend $100 on a home theater style 10in bass reflex sub with built in plate amp and crossover. Connect it your main speakers and adjust to taste. I find that a 10in sub is more than enough for any regular listening of music. Don’t need stereo as sub is omnidirectional below 80Hz.
In US market I like the Polk PSW10. There are similar products in Europe by other makers.
If you really want to DIY your sub, get a 10in subwoofer driver and make a cube and tune it to 30Hz. Drive it with a 2.1 channel amp. The amp will have a frequency and amplitude adjustment and low pass for the sub output. Problem is, you will never be able to make one that is as well performing as a $100 commercial one of you spent $100 on parts.
I'm quite picky, actually when I listen music I don't like subs because I either hate it because it's too present or I can't realize its presence at all. I like capable speakers that make you feel like you don't need a sub. I'm not sure I can convey the feeling, specially with my limited english
Regarding the tuning of the bass port, do I have to adjust inductor and resistor size or do they stay the same?
No changes to inductor BSC circuit. You might have not had the sub well adjusted to integrate with the mains. Very mild amplitude is best so it’s not over powering. I use a sub with my 10F/RS225 FAST speakers which go down to 50Hz (sealed) and it sounds great. There is a TL version of the same speaker that goes to 31Hz (-3dB) And needs no sub. Member Vunce has verified the design and says it sound fantastic. If you really want tight accurate bass from a full range FAST speaker, that’s the way to go.
The TL would need to be folded to keep within your size constraint. But if you don’t use stand mounts - the height is the same for a floor stander.
Predicted frequency response:
The TL would need to be folded to keep within your size constraint. But if you don’t use stand mounts - the height is the same for a floor stander.
Predicted frequency response:
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