Help for 3 or 4 way loudspeaker

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#42
40mm would be nice for the front baffle. It could also work nicely for the the other panels although 19 or 25mm would also be sufficient.

It's overkill for the bracing though. If you've got 10mm panels, you could think of glueing 2 together if you're able. Or use 19mm.

Cabinet dimensions should be adjusted so that Vb still ends up at about 75L.
 
#44
merlin,

You seem to have a mental block concerning volume calculations but they are really very simple math.

For a cube-like object,

V (in L) = length x width x height (all in cm) / 1000

So, a 30cm x 40cm x 4cm panel = 4800 cm^3 / 1000 = 4.8 L (just punch the numbers into a calculator)


For a cylinder,

V (L) = area x height = pi x radius^2 x height (all in cm) / 1000

So, if you cut out a hole in the panel with a diameter of 13cm then

radius = 6.5cm and pi = 3.14

so volume of the cylinder of wood removed is,
V = [ 3.14 x (6.5 x 6.5) x 4 ] /1000
= 530.66 / 1000
= .531 L

So the net volume of your panel is
V = 4.8 - .531
= 4.269 L

So, just do this for each one of your interior panels and then add them up. That's the volume of your bracing.

Ports are also simply cylinders. The volume of your driver is a little harder to figure out. I roughly guestimate it at about 1 L.

With this information, you should be able to figure out your net box volume. Just break it all down on a piece of paper into all the separate pieces if you have to. Ask again if you run into any problems.
 
#47
jReave said:
40mm would be nice for the front baffle. It could also work nicely for the the other panels although 19 or 25mm would also be sufficient.

It's overkill for the bracing though. If you've got 10mm panels, you could think of glueing 2 together if you're able. Or use 19mm.

Cabinet dimensions should be adjusted so that Vb still ends up at about 75L.
Click to expand...

If I make all bafle with 40mm will be necessary bracing?
 
#51
jReave said:
merlin,

I need to know what the xo looks like on your mid and tweeter.
Click to expand...

mid xover

353563d1370858161-2-way-xover-18w-8545-00-9500_parallel_v2_final-1-.png


tweeter xover

353886d1371033783-2-way-xover-t25cf002-xover.jpg
 
#53
Well no, I think the right place to start is with a proper simulation. I'm working on it. Just be patient.

And no, I also wouldn't start with a 4th order. I'd start with a 2nd order, see how that works out and then add more components only if necessary.

Also, you are going to have to add a high pass circuit to your mid too.
 
#54
jReave said:
Well no, I think the right place to start is with a proper simulation. I'm working on it. Just be patient.

And no, I also wouldn't start with a 4th order. I'd start with a 2nd order, see how that works out and then add more components only if necessary.

Also, you are going to have to add a high pass circuit to your mid too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your support, really appreciated.
 
#55
You're welcome.

Thanks for the xo info.

Using the dimensions and drawings you've provided so far, it looks like your woofer is 555mm above the floor, and I'm guestimating the mid at 687mm and the tweeter at 840mm. Are these correct?

And also, what is the height of your ears at your listening position?
 
#57
jReave said:
You're welcome.

Thanks for the xo info.

Using the dimensions and drawings you've provided so far, it looks like your woofer is 555mm above the floor, and I'm guestimating the mid at 687mm and the tweeter at 840mm. Are these correct?

And also, what is the height of your ears at your listening position?
Click to expand...

Listening position is 88cm

How to add a high pass filter to mids?
 
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#58
May I ask , why do you build it as integrated speaker ? You know that position in the room is almost always a compromise between quality/quantity of the bass and quality of stereophonic imaging , sound staging , purity of midrange etc. By joining the sections together you effectively shoot yourself in the foot except if your monitor clearly sucks at 60-70 hz which may not be the case with SS mnidbass.
 
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